Correct me if I'm wrong but isn't the Ride basically just a longer travel, dual crown Pike? All of the adjustments are the same, right?Bicyclist said:
06 Boxxer question, how do you guys run your compression settings??
- Thread starter Cave Dweller
- Start date
No the ride uses the same damper as the Team and Worldcup, which has an additonal hi-speed shim-stack, and shimmed low speed compession. TheLex said:
Seeing I live in the Northeast I don't think my bike will be seeing any Big Bear like courses. But that top cap might work.Bicyclist said:
i have a solo air and I'm having a little trouble understanding adjustments. I know the low speed compression adjusts from super plush to full lockout. the flood gate (which has like 22 clicks, correct? at least mine does) and the blackbox compression damper. Is the blackbox thing adjustable and what the heck does it do? I see nothing about it in the manual except for the fact that its there.
The manual says: "This secondary compression piston controls high spped compression blow-off while leaving your low speed compression adjustment virtually unchanged." Now i'm not usre what that means I just got my Team installed today and i'm trying to get it fine tuned.
i got the soft spring in my team and weigh 150 and wish i would have got the x-soft im only getting 2.25" of sag its not totally bad but i would have a better range of preload and whatnot with the other spring. 3of7clicks low 5of 30 of high and its just right.
i got 06 WCs...you have seen them on my sunday if you recall the Coffs race..(with avy)..i never touch the compression knob...i run minimum compression..just play with the rebound and air pressure
Kinda on topic here, do any of you know where springs from an 05 Boxxer WC will work with an 06 team? (without any mods)
Yes, but the spring rate is too soft. Hardest spring last year (2005 model x-firm) is 25lb, this years x-soft is 30lb. So unless you are super, super light it won't work..:Jeenyus:. said:
running on air cap on a Team... is this in replacement of the preload shims?
and which cap is it?
thx
-r
and which cap is it?
thx
-r
oops 
I meant: is that the right one, since RS makes a few diff top caps. Perhaps any 32mm RS top cap will work?
What SRAM part number do I need, etc?
thankS!
-rob
I meant: is that the right one, since RS makes a few diff top caps. Perhaps any 32mm RS top cap will work?
What SRAM part number do I need, etc?
thankS!
-rob
any 32mm topcap will work fine.
Well, i guess since everyone is bringing up their different boxxer problems/ideas to the table, i might as well post my query here:
okay, a few days ago i was riding some pretty chilled terrain, nothing too testing for my 06 Boxxer Team (that i take good care of btw), i started noticing some sort of leaking noise from the top of the adjsutment leg, somewhere near the topcap, or (this is my best guess) the area between the floodgate knob and the blue compression knob. Anyway, my day finished there as a mate broke his arm and ook him to the hospital.
Today i went to the local dh track without thinking too much about my problem. By the end of the day, the leaking noise was getting worse and worse and mor oil ws coming out from the afore mentioned area...i don't mean profuse amounts of oil, but enough to make my finger glisten.
I called it a day and stuck the bike on the bike rack on the boot of the car, by the time i got home, some oil had managed to blow its way onto the frame (because of the iwnd resistance during the drive home)...
needless to say, at first it was just making a weird noise, then it made more noise and started leaking a bit. Now it makes the noise even when i press on the forks lighlty AND the oil seems to flow out even more easily then before.
Sorry for the super long descriptive post, but i need an answer:
what's wrong with my boxxer? anyone had this problem?
cheers guys!
okay, a few days ago i was riding some pretty chilled terrain, nothing too testing for my 06 Boxxer Team (that i take good care of btw), i started noticing some sort of leaking noise from the top of the adjsutment leg, somewhere near the topcap, or (this is my best guess) the area between the floodgate knob and the blue compression knob. Anyway, my day finished there as a mate broke his arm and ook him to the hospital.
Today i went to the local dh track without thinking too much about my problem. By the end of the day, the leaking noise was getting worse and worse and mor oil ws coming out from the afore mentioned area...i don't mean profuse amounts of oil, but enough to make my finger glisten.
I called it a day and stuck the bike on the bike rack on the boot of the car, by the time i got home, some oil had managed to blow its way onto the frame (because of the iwnd resistance during the drive home)...
needless to say, at first it was just making a weird noise, then it made more noise and started leaking a bit. Now it makes the noise even when i press on the forks lighlty AND the oil seems to flow out even more easily then before.
Sorry for the super long descriptive post, but i need an answer:
what's wrong with my boxxer? anyone had this problem?
cheers guys!
Udi did a thread on this, if its the oil leaking between the floodgate and blue comp knob the fix is easy
My fork was leaking and i did what he suggested and it works great now, even after 3 days of hammering on chair lifted runs.
http://www.ridemonkey.com/forums/showthread.php?t=169338&highlight=leak+boxxer
If its under the blue knob you might need to pull apart the mcu and replace the seal underneath, i haven't done this so im not sure whats involved.
Seeing the thread was originally about me asking compression settings for the boxxer, im running 4-5 clicks LSC and 2-6 of gate these days, depending on how rocky the track is.
Many thanks out to Cave Dweller for the link and the fast reply. (and to Udi for the nice explanatory post)
AP is correct. I have the new cartridge. If your having problems, have your LBS contact SRAM.
Just one question, people are talking about runung like 5 clicks of hsc but there are like 30 clicks, dont you find this to make little difference, i dont think i can tell the difference unless its like half on, also, dont you guys find that the transition between low and high speed gets realy un-smooth unless you increase both high and low speed equally e.g. if you run 3 clicks of lsc and no hsc then its not smooth as soon as it blows off which is normally pretty easily, but if you run like 10-15 clicks of hsc with is it makes them sit up better even though they will compress real well unfder heavy hits but doesent loose its smoothness.
I think it's better (for LSC) to talk in clicks out from all the way in, because some adjusters will go 7 clicks while most will go 6 (just depends on how much you tighten the reverse threaded cap onto the plastic damper tube). My way makes it easier to compare settings.
So i'm running 2 clicks out from all the way in for LSC, and 5 clicks in from all the way out on the floodgate. I find the transition smooth enough that I can't notice it at those settings. I'm running Silkolene Pro RSF 5wt which is slightly thicker than the stock oil (it's also more temperature stable, and runs smoother I feel
).
It only takes a tiny bit of floodgate to make a difference, because the floodgate controls how long the LSC damping will be active before it starts regressing (ie starts the blowoff curve).
If you leave it all the way out, obviously it starts blowing off too quickly (meaning your LSC can't really do what it's supposed to on all corners/g-outs). But anything more than 5-8 clicks in (on floodgate) and the compression damping isn't going to start regressing easily enough (ie. it's going to take a really fast hit to start blowing off) which means you'll likely be losing traction too easily.
So i'm running 2 clicks out from all the way in for LSC, and 5 clicks in from all the way out on the floodgate. I find the transition smooth enough that I can't notice it at those settings. I'm running Silkolene Pro RSF 5wt which is slightly thicker than the stock oil (it's also more temperature stable, and runs smoother I feel
).It only takes a tiny bit of floodgate to make a difference, because the floodgate controls how long the LSC damping will be active before it starts regressing (ie starts the blowoff curve).
If you leave it all the way out, obviously it starts blowing off too quickly (meaning your LSC can't really do what it's supposed to on all corners/g-outs). But anything more than 5-8 clicks in (on floodgate) and the compression damping isn't going to start regressing easily enough (ie. it's going to take a really fast hit to start blowing off) which means you'll likely be losing traction too easily.
A good use of the LSC and floodgate as explained by Udi to my experience will also enable you to run lower air pressure i.e. softer spring which has improved my riding and it has helped my arms and hands stay fresh when you ride a day.
The cool thing with the boxxer is you have easy access to the compression adjustments on the top of the fork and you can quickly try different setups.
The cool thing with the boxxer is you have easy access to the compression adjustments on the top of the fork and you can quickly try different setups.
It's really useless to try and compare clicks to clicks.
It's a good starting point, but each rider is different.
I've found everything from Tire type/ pressure, weight balance, fork travel, fork spring rate, rider weight, temperature and other crap ALL determine the sweet spot for the MC damper.
Here's my best solution for finding the sweet spot for yourself:
Open both compression and FG all the way.
1. FIRST adjust your rebound, as this can effect compression settings. MC boxxers like fast rebound. Close the rebound just enough so that it starts to drag around halfway through rebound in travel after pushing on the bars hard and letting up fast. Rebound is only needed for those deep travel hits. If your rebound is engaging too low in travel, you have it too slow for MC dampers.
2. SECOND, find a high speed logging road or somewhere DH with some good sized rocks and gravel, where you can ride with one hand safely. While riding at 20+ mph, if you can, reach down with your right hand and close the blue compression knob one click at a time until you can feel the bumps smooth out the most. If you go too far closed on the knob it will get harsh again. Go back and forth to find the sweet spot for the high speed gravel bumps. This is important for railing loose corners with max traction.
3. THIRD, keep you compression knob in the sweet spot and then do the same method for the gold FG knob, while riding some rock gardens where you usually use full travel smashing through rocks at high speeds. You may have to stop and adjust, as it isn't safe riding with one hand at those speeds. Keep closing the FG one click at a time until you can feel the fork resisting full travel a bit. Don't close it more once you start using far less than full travel.
4. FOURTH, now that you have the MC damper perfected for your ride, adjust the compression knob one click open (from the sweet spot) for cold weather and one click closed for warm weather.
Simple as that!
I would also like to add that having you low speed compression set right will result in a significant increase in traction through off-chamber loose corners. My front wheel would wash out all the time when I had the damper full open in compression. Once I got it to my sweet spot of 3 clicks compression the tire just remains glued and I then had slight oversteer, which resulted in much faster corners.
It's a good starting point, but each rider is different.
I've found everything from Tire type/ pressure, weight balance, fork travel, fork spring rate, rider weight, temperature and other crap ALL determine the sweet spot for the MC damper.
Here's my best solution for finding the sweet spot for yourself:
Open both compression and FG all the way.
1. FIRST adjust your rebound, as this can effect compression settings. MC boxxers like fast rebound. Close the rebound just enough so that it starts to drag around halfway through rebound in travel after pushing on the bars hard and letting up fast. Rebound is only needed for those deep travel hits. If your rebound is engaging too low in travel, you have it too slow for MC dampers.
2. SECOND, find a high speed logging road or somewhere DH with some good sized rocks and gravel, where you can ride with one hand safely. While riding at 20+ mph, if you can, reach down with your right hand and close the blue compression knob one click at a time until you can feel the bumps smooth out the most. If you go too far closed on the knob it will get harsh again. Go back and forth to find the sweet spot for the high speed gravel bumps. This is important for railing loose corners with max traction.
3. THIRD, keep you compression knob in the sweet spot and then do the same method for the gold FG knob, while riding some rock gardens where you usually use full travel smashing through rocks at high speeds. You may have to stop and adjust, as it isn't safe riding with one hand at those speeds. Keep closing the FG one click at a time until you can feel the fork resisting full travel a bit. Don't close it more once you start using far less than full travel.
4. FOURTH, now that you have the MC damper perfected for your ride, adjust the compression knob one click open (from the sweet spot) for cold weather and one click closed for warm weather.
Simple as that!
I would also like to add that having you low speed compression set right will result in a significant increase in traction through off-chamber loose corners. My front wheel would wash out all the time when I had the damper full open in compression. Once I got it to my sweet spot of 3 clicks compression the tire just remains glued and I then had slight oversteer, which resulted in much faster corners.
well, that's a very practical method of tuning, I'd never thought of it that way. I might try it out.
Actually I really don't think you need to go to all that trouble. I think that's dangerous and unneccessary (if you must, tune before riding, stop, retune, and repeat).
Seriously - the LSC adjuster has very little useable range. At 2 clicks back from locked, you've got a decent amount of damping. At 1 click back from locked it's just about locked out (ie unuseable). At 3 clicks back from locked, there is very little LSC damping (albeit still some). It sounds like you're running the last setting there.
The only useable settings are 2 clicks back and 3 clicks back really. So in short if you like more LSC or are game to try it, run 2 clicks back, if that's too much or you're a very light rider then run 3 clicks back. Pretty simple.
Floodgate you're welcome to play with as obviously there's a far greater useable range here, but I think realistically (over a range of rider weights) 3-10 clicks in is where you want it to be.
Springrate/rebound damping are definitely important factors, like CBJ said you can get away with lighter springrates if you run more compression damping. Rebound is pretty straightforward though - run as little as you can handle (especially if you are running a lighter springrate to go with the extra compression damping). It'll let the fork recover quicker and return to a softer part of the travel rather than packing down, and LSC will take care of stability/attitude on its own if you are running enough of it. I'm running my reb all the way out (as well as a few guys I know), but if you do run some - go easy. Obviously more for harder springrates, less for softer springrates.
Finally - changing LSC settings for weather is again unneccessary. In fact, it's going to be detrimental if anything - as I stated earlier, the difference between clicks is huge, and chances are you'll end up with a setting that's too much or too little. Given its small volume, the motion control oil warms up quite quickly regardless of the weather, so I think it's best to find a setting that works and stick with it.
Seriously - the LSC adjuster has very little useable range. At 2 clicks back from locked, you've got a decent amount of damping. At 1 click back from locked it's just about locked out (ie unuseable). At 3 clicks back from locked, there is very little LSC damping (albeit still some). It sounds like you're running the last setting there.
The only useable settings are 2 clicks back and 3 clicks back really. So in short if you like more LSC or are game to try it, run 2 clicks back, if that's too much or you're a very light rider then run 3 clicks back. Pretty simple.
Floodgate you're welcome to play with as obviously there's a far greater useable range here, but I think realistically (over a range of rider weights) 3-10 clicks in is where you want it to be.
Springrate/rebound damping are definitely important factors, like CBJ said you can get away with lighter springrates if you run more compression damping. Rebound is pretty straightforward though - run as little as you can handle (especially if you are running a lighter springrate to go with the extra compression damping). It'll let the fork recover quicker and return to a softer part of the travel rather than packing down, and LSC will take care of stability/attitude on its own if you are running enough of it. I'm running my reb all the way out (as well as a few guys I know), but if you do run some - go easy. Obviously more for harder springrates, less for softer springrates.
Finally - changing LSC settings for weather is again unneccessary. In fact, it's going to be detrimental if anything - as I stated earlier, the difference between clicks is huge, and chances are you'll end up with a setting that's too much or too little. Given its small volume, the motion control oil warms up quite quickly regardless of the weather, so I think it's best to find a setting that works and stick with it.
Turn it slowly, it should click. It's got a detent ball mechanism inside the cartridge. If you can't feel anything though, i'll check mine for turns when I get home from work. It'll be about 1 turn in from all the way out at a rough guess.
I don't agree. If you'r talking a difference between 20 degrees, then not much difference.
If you're riding in sub freezing temps, there's a HUGE difference in damping characteristics compared to a warm day.
There's also the fact that people of different weights will want to tune it differently. I lent my bike to a lighter friend who found it smoother riding the compression 1 click from full open.
As far as riding one handed, it's fine as long as you're on a wide and straight service road. I could never tell the difference in some settings until I tried tuning it while riding. Then I was able to sense that slightest little bit of extra traction.
I know, splitting hairs. But I like to get the most out of my gear, even down to the slightest detail.
open, or just a few clicks of each