what are the best FORKS for 24" + pegs
- Thread starter cmc
- Start date
You still asking 6 + months later? Pegs work just like pegs on a BMX bike same friction coefficient.
If you mount it properly to the fork it is not going anywhere... my peg is attached using a bolt the same diameter as my pedal and inserts farther....
If you mount it properly to the fork it is not going anywhere... my peg is attached using a bolt the same diameter as my pedal and inserts farther....
Thanks Lethal. Peg friction is not my question. (Long time bmx'er). Just wanna know if the fork really holds up to 50-50's and Smiths on street.
I know dudes like you are out there doing this ****, but it gets zero coverage from what I can tell. Nothing in DECLINE or DIRT UK or dvd's. Literally no one in my area has the setup.
Might make it up to Ray's this winter and ride someone's Molly with Gold Label and pegs. Then I'll buy one and shut the f up !!!
Anyone selling one already modded out for pegs?
from a Finnish dude on another forum.
the OG heavy beast version, ALL steel:
updated alu/steel version.
looks money if susp. is your route, GL/Sherman in particular... Otherwise, I'd recommend the Rebate 1420, I've got one and it's perfect for pegs if you run, but I shaved my axles flush since I don't grind with the front...
the OG heavy beast version, ALL steel:
updated alu/steel version.
looks money if susp. is your route, GL/Sherman in particular... Otherwise, I'd recommend the Rebate 1420, I've got one and it's perfect for pegs if you run, but I shaved my axles flush since I don't grind with the front...
hate to revive an old thread, but it's the same topic . . . . (my daily bike is the 26", so the Molly is a slow project)
i'm replacing the d-street fork with something lighter... and it has to be good for pegs, skatepark, and street. (at least i got the d-street axle out of the deal).
the gold label fork has been popular with everyone on this board. but don't yall think it's a problem for pegs that the fork legs extend so far below the axle ? seems like you would easily bash up the bottom of the fork leg, with 50-50's and smiths. the d-street fork came with protective cap things--has anyone done this type of thing with the gold label fork ? i found a gold label that's 80mm and a good price and i want to buy it, but i don't want to make another expensive fork mistake.
** one solution could be to go to a machine shop and get my own version of the fork-end protective cap made... hmmm. yeah...
evil4bc suggested it might be possible to put the lowers of the d-street onto a marzocchi dirt jumper 1 fork....
Gold Label 80mm:
Marzocchi Dirt Jumper 1 100mm travel:
My Molly:
i'm replacing the d-street fork with something lighter... and it has to be good for pegs, skatepark, and street. (at least i got the d-street axle out of the deal).
the gold label fork has been popular with everyone on this board. but don't yall think it's a problem for pegs that the fork legs extend so far below the axle ? seems like you would easily bash up the bottom of the fork leg, with 50-50's and smiths. the d-street fork came with protective cap things--has anyone done this type of thing with the gold label fork ? i found a gold label that's 80mm and a good price and i want to buy it, but i don't want to make another expensive fork mistake.
** one solution could be to go to a machine shop and get my own version of the fork-end protective cap made... hmmm. yeah...
evil4bc suggested it might be possible to put the lowers of the d-street onto a marzocchi dirt jumper 1 fork....
Gold Label 80mm:
Marzocchi Dirt Jumper 1 100mm travel:
My Molly:
Nitpicking here: As far as I know the only Marzocchi forks with moving lower bushings attached to the stantions (giving the increased bushing overlap you mention) were the Shivers. The increased stiffness you noted is simply due to less leverage on the bushings due to the shorter a2c length.
I'm not concerned about the peg or it's attachement to the fork. I'm having doubts about replacing two solid steel fork legs with 4 tiny plastic bushings to handle all that abuse between the peg and the fork crown.
why are you so concerned? It's already being done right now, as we speak. It's been done. It's done. It's doing. now. People are riding them. Unconcerned but having fun.
Not my thing either, but I'm not doubting its existence or possibility to function.
Throwing down tight rymes son , Satori's post need to be backed up by beat's cus they got flow .
For 24 " fork with peg's I'm leaning more tward the rigid side of things these days .
Brian over at supercosss bmx jsut sent me this linky their making 1 1/4 leged 26" bmx forks FYI to the masses !
Supercorss 26" rigid forks
sorry homie, more overlap is still more overlap. oh, and nobody said a single thing about a bushing...
You talking about all the extra stantion flapping around under the lowest bushing? You could chop it off and it wouldn't make a bit of difference. You're "overlap" benefit is actually really low a2c height and less leverage on the bushings.
Oh don't get me wrong. Not saying it isn't flawless for lots of guys. Just looking at it through my eyes (6'1", 250 lbs and very rough / unskilled when it comes to grinding ledges). That's all.
here you see: evan williams bourbon, konig pilsner, t1 pegs, regular thru-axle tube thing, D-STREET axle, and a 2008 Manitou Gold Label series 2 fork.
here you see:
Gold Label fork with the hexagonal head version of the thru-tube thing...
here you see a regular tube thing not fitting through the fork
AND here you see the D-Street Axle definitely not fitting through the Manitou hex-end tube thing.
f-ing brilliant !! hmmm. maybe i will quit this quest for pegs on an mtb for the time being. i do not have a handy machine shop to go "tapping" things out.... damn.
here you see:
Gold Label fork with the hexagonal head version of the thru-tube thing...
here you see a regular tube thing not fitting through the fork
AND here you see the D-Street Axle definitely not fitting through the Manitou hex-end tube thing.
f-ing brilliant !! hmmm. maybe i will quit this quest for pegs on an mtb for the time being. i do not have a handy machine shop to go "tapping" things out.... damn.
. . . and to top it off the hub does not fit snugly between the fork legs (like it does on the Marzocchi D-Street fork). there's a gap, so when you tighten it up, the whole wheel shifts to the left. wtf !? i guess i need washers. which did not come with the fork.
. . . and to top it off the hub does not fit snugly between the fork legs (like it does on the Marzocchi D-Street fork). there's a gap, so when you tighten it up, the whole wheel shifts to the left. wtf !? i guess i need washers. which did not come with the fork.
That gap will disappear once you preload the hub from the side with the axle bolt (before you tighten down the pinch bolts). No spacers needed, the legs just flex w/out the axle.
Sucks about your quest for pegs...
...if I try to mix the bourbon with my bikes, I'd probably be walking away with a lot of trial and error broken parts... either that or just broken out of sheer frustration of nothing lining up!
why can't you get that regular 14mm (?) axle through the 20mm axle, then bolt it down in some pegs on each side?
nice bank account summary there by the way.
i WILL buy your d street axle if u are interested
okay. it'll cost you $340 shipped. since that's what i paid for that f-ing d-street fork and axle. you can have the d-street fork for free.
dude, i'm not sure about that.
. . . .
because the 20mm tube doesn't fit through the fork b/c of the hex-shape design ! it's actually smaller than 20mm if it's circular.
nevermind, u dont like the fork?
WORD, rigid, take it like a man!
Take the GL axle to a machine shop and get it milled out, would that work?
yeah, i think that would.
You do understand that the D-Street axle is not the end-all-be-all when it comes to putting pegs on a MTB Fork right?
It's a Marzocchi product, hence why it's not designed to work in perfect conjuction with your new Manitou product. You shouldn't be getting upset that you cannot pop your old Thru-axle into your new fork, it's just not going to happen.
However, as has been mentioned several times in this thread, there IS a relatively well trusted means of attaching pegs to Manitou forks, AND it's quite simple - no access to a "real machine shop" needed.
If you can get yourself to a hardware store, you can set up your Gold Label with pegs for under $20, guaranteed.
First question to ask yourself is what side do you want to run pegs on; even if it's both sides, putting the peg on either side is a different process so it's important to keep them straight.
Left Side Process:
There's a thread-in allen button head bolt for axle preload correct? Replace that button head with a standard STEEL bolt with the same threading as the buttonhead, and put a couple of washers between the peg and the dropout to space it away from the fork to give enough room for clearance. After that, all you have to do is mount the peg the same way you would on any other bike, slide the bolt through the peg and then thread it into the axle. Done deal.
Right Side:
The Manitou thru-axle is hollow right? Well the rightside hollow end is smooth, not threaded. What you need to do is go down to your local hardware store or shop, and ask them which tap you'd need to thread the hollow end to accept a 9/16's bolt. No machine shop access needed. At most what you'll need to purchase for this side is:
- the appropriate tap
- tap handle
- 9/16's bolt
- some washers
You already have the pegs, and the fork, so you shouldn't expect to spend more than $20 on the entire project I'd say.
If you've never tapped anything before, ask for a little advice on how to do it from where you purchase the tap from. If you're nice and it's a full service hardware store, they might just tap it for you on the spot for a buck or two, and you wouldn't really have to buy anything.
Long story short, if you can put a screw in a wall, you can tap your axle. Just go slow and be careful, and everything will work out in the end. When you're all set and done you'll be riding a custom almost flush mount job, which is all the rage in the BMX world nowadays
Forget about your D-street and it's axle - the process outlined above is a bit cleaner and ALOT lighter. I know Leethal posted in this thread; alot of the guys on the USB team themselves are running this setup for mounting pegs on their Jumpers/Gold Labels.
Piece o' cake!
It's a Marzocchi product, hence why it's not designed to work in perfect conjuction with your new Manitou product. You shouldn't be getting upset that you cannot pop your old Thru-axle into your new fork, it's just not going to happen.
However, as has been mentioned several times in this thread, there IS a relatively well trusted means of attaching pegs to Manitou forks, AND it's quite simple - no access to a "real machine shop" needed.
If you can get yourself to a hardware store, you can set up your Gold Label with pegs for under $20, guaranteed.
First question to ask yourself is what side do you want to run pegs on; even if it's both sides, putting the peg on either side is a different process so it's important to keep them straight.
Left Side Process:
There's a thread-in allen button head bolt for axle preload correct? Replace that button head with a standard STEEL bolt with the same threading as the buttonhead, and put a couple of washers between the peg and the dropout to space it away from the fork to give enough room for clearance. After that, all you have to do is mount the peg the same way you would on any other bike, slide the bolt through the peg and then thread it into the axle. Done deal.
Right Side:
The Manitou thru-axle is hollow right? Well the rightside hollow end is smooth, not threaded. What you need to do is go down to your local hardware store or shop, and ask them which tap you'd need to thread the hollow end to accept a 9/16's bolt. No machine shop access needed. At most what you'll need to purchase for this side is:
- the appropriate tap
- tap handle
- 9/16's bolt
- some washers
You already have the pegs, and the fork, so you shouldn't expect to spend more than $20 on the entire project I'd say.
If you've never tapped anything before, ask for a little advice on how to do it from where you purchase the tap from. If you're nice and it's a full service hardware store, they might just tap it for you on the spot for a buck or two, and you wouldn't really have to buy anything.
Long story short, if you can put a screw in a wall, you can tap your axle. Just go slow and be careful, and everything will work out in the end. When you're all set and done you'll be riding a custom almost flush mount job, which is all the rage in the BMX world nowadays
Forget about your D-street and it's axle - the process outlined above is a bit cleaner and ALOT lighter. I know Leethal posted in this thread; alot of the guys on the USB team themselves are running this setup for mounting pegs on their Jumpers/Gold Labels.
Piece o' cake!
I gotta real smooth and light way to handle this problem. A) ride a bmx bike with pegs, or B) just grind your pedals.
I'm confused why you would need a suspension fork for grinding, I suppose it would help with kinked rails, but most rails I've seen are pretty smooth.
Just busting balls
I'm confused why you would need a suspension fork for grinding, I suppose it would help with kinked rails, but most rails I've seen are pretty smooth.
Just busting balls
cmc, did this post make you think you can fit the D-Street axle inside the Manitou's axle without modifying anything?
If so, I feel kinda sorry as I did those and didn't put more information about it on the internet...
You need to machine the axle more, make the inside dimension completely 14mm from end to end.
And yes, you may need to put thin washer between the hub and the fork leg. I had to, otherwise the wheel didn't sit straight (rim was about 1.5mm an angled). It needed 0,5mm thick washer IIRC. First I thought my legs were faulty but after I installed another pair of legs I found out they were the same... I've got GL2 '06 btw.
You do understand that the D-Street axle is not the end-all-be-all when it comes to putting pegs on a MTB Fork right?
It's a Marzocchi product, hence why it's not designed to work in perfect conjuction with your new Manitou product. You shouldn't be getting upset that you cannot pop your old Thru-axle into your new fork, it's just not going to happen.
However, as has been mentioned several times in this thread, there IS a relatively well trusted means of attaching pegs to Manitou forks, AND it's quite simple - no access to a "real machine shop" needed.
If you can get yourself to a hardware store, you can set up your Gold Label with pegs for under $20, guaranteed.
First question to ask yourself is what side do you want to run pegs on; even if it's both sides, putting the peg on either side is a different process so it's important to keep them straight.
Left Side Process:
There's a thread-in allen button head bolt for axle preload correct? Replace that button head with a standard STEEL bolt with the same threading as the buttonhead, and put a couple of washers between the peg and the dropout to space it away from the fork to give enough room for clearance. After that, all you have to do is mount the peg the same way you would on any other bike, slide the bolt through the peg and then thread it into the axle. Done deal.
Right Side:
The Manitou thru-axle is hollow right? Well the rightside hollow end is smooth, not threaded. What you need to do is go down to your local hardware store or shop, and ask them which tap you'd need to thread the hollow end to accept a 9/16's bolt. No machine shop access needed. At most what you'll need to purchase for this side is:
- the appropriate tap
- tap handle
- 9/16's bolt
- some washers
You already have the pegs, and the fork, so you shouldn't expect to spend more than $20 on the entire project I'd say.
If you've never tapped anything before, ask for a little advice on how to do it from where you purchase the tap from. If you're nice and it's a full service hardware store, they might just tap it for you on the spot for a buck or two, and you wouldn't really have to buy anything.
Long story short, if you can put a screw in a wall, you can tap your axle. Just go slow and be careful, and everything will work out in the end. When you're all set and done you'll be riding a custom almost flush mount job, which is all the rage in the BMX world nowadays
Forget about your D-street and it's axle - the process outlined above is a bit cleaner and ALOT lighter. I know Leethal posted in this thread; alot of the guys on the USB team themselves are running this setup for mounting pegs on their Jumpers/Gold Labels.
Piece o' cake!
thanks dude. (and thanks to the rest of yall too for chiming in on this).
even though yall had described this before, it was hard to visualize until i actually had it in front of me.
I dunno why you would want to stick an axle all the way through a Manitou axle although it would work, tapping the axle as Satori and I have decribed is every bit as strong. The bolts used on either side are stronger than the interface between your pedal and cranks.
Bingo!