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Chris King headset bearings in powdercoat oven

Jan 12, 2005
200
0
Lancashire (U.K)
I have a chomoly frame thats going for re-powder coat, the only problem being that it has a King Steelset headset with the 1" depth cups installed.
The issue being the temperature of the curing oven. I'd dont really want to remove the cups, which leaves either;

Drift the bearings from the (steel) cups,

or remove the outer seals -wash the grease out and regrease once its back from the coaters.

Any advice would be welcome.
 

zahgurim

Underwater monkey
Mar 9, 2005
1,100
12
lolAsia
I say remove the cups. Don't be lazy...

You prolly don't want a powdercoated headset/bearing setup?
 

dhkid

Turbo Monkey
Mar 10, 2005
3,358
0
Malaysia
i could be mistaken but i think the king bearings use plastic bearing carriers*. that might melt.

*not even sure thats the right term for them
 

Rick205

Monkey
Jun 20, 2006
200
0
Take the cups out, they will bead blast your frame filling everywhere with bead before painting (unless they mask it carefully) - i had a frame done and it was full of shot when i got it back.

As dhkid says, the heat could melt the bearing seals/ carriers - the heat may even cause the bearings to fall out of the cups if it gets hot enough - a friend of mine had some car parts coated and the bearings all fell out when the components expanded under heat.

It takes about 2 mins to take the cups out i dont see why you wouldnt want to do it?
 
Jan 12, 2005
200
0
Lancashire (U.K)
I say remove the cups. Don't be lazy...

You prolly don't want a powdercoated headset/bearing setup?
yeah thats all thats stopping me, pure lazyness.......

The cups are 1" deep, once in-they stay in-it'd be easier to remove the bearings from the cups. A standard aluminium King then yeah no problem I'd remove it but its a Steelset.

The cups were to be masked off to avoid overspray.

The frame is not being bead blasted.
 

BlackAthlete

Monkey
Apr 8, 2008
184
0
The cups have to come out, you have no real choice in the matter, especially if your coater isn't using low temp cure powder.

They come out, just hit the tool harder. Or bring it to a shop.

Don't be lazy.
 

sanjuro

Tube Smuggler
Sep 13, 2004
17,373
0
SF
Don't forget the cups are deeper not to prevent them from coming out, but to reduce the chances of ovalization.

I have not installed them, but with a little grease I would assume it would be no more difficult than a regular headset.
 

Huck Banzai

Turbo Monkey
May 8, 2005
2,523
23
Transitory
Steelset shouldnt be removed unless you're moving it to another frame.

Took 35mins and 2 people to remove one with proper tools when a complete mook pressed the cups in 'upside down' -- (top cup in bottom, bottom in top, logos upside down... blaaaah)

This was minutes after is was pressed in, forget about if it has been in there for any significant time.
 

Zark

Hey little girl, do you want some candy?
Oct 18, 2001
6,254
7
Reno 911
Took 35mins and 2 people to remove one with proper tools when a complete mook pressed the cups in 'upside down' -- (top cup in bottom, bottom in top, logos upside down... blaaaah)
Mook, hehe, great word +rep
 

Tweety

Chimp
May 30, 2007
62
0
The bearings in the headset are rebuildable, aren't they? Remove the clips holding the bearings in, remove the seals, and remove the bearings and carriers.
 

CrabJoe StretchPants

Reincarnated Crab Walking Head Spinning Bruce Dick
Nov 30, 2003
14,163
2,484
Groton, MA
Steelset shouldnt be removed unless you're moving it to another frame.

Took 35mins and 2 people to remove one with proper tools when a complete mook pressed the cups in 'upside down' -- (top cup in bottom, bottom in top, logos upside down... blaaaah)

This was minutes after is was pressed in, forget about if it has been in there for any significant time.

I'm 99.999% sure top/bottom doesn't matter.
 

Arkayne

I come bearing GIFs
May 10, 2005
3,738
15
SoCal
I thought the carriers were made out of delrin or some sort of polymer.

"Delrin, is an engineering plastic, a polymer with the chemical formula -(-O-CH2-)n-. It is often marketed and used as a metal substitute. Delrin is a lightweight, low-friction, and wear-resistant thermoplastic with good physical and processing properties and capable of operating in temperatures in excess of 90 degrees Celsius (approximately 200 degrees Fahrenheit)."

So unless that curing oven is less than 200 degrees F, which it's not (think 350)... you are SOL.

 

jonKranked

Detective Dookie
Nov 10, 2005
85,562
24,182
media blackout
I thought the carriers were made out of delrin or some sort of polymer.

"Delrin, is an engineering plastic, a polymer with the chemical formula -(-O-CH2-)n-. It is often marketed and used as a metal substitute. Delrin is a lightweight, low-friction, and wear-resistant thermoplastic with good physical and processing properties and capable of operating in temperatures in excess of 90 degrees Celsius (approximately 200 degrees Fahrenheit)."

So unless that curing oven is less than 200 degrees F, which it's not (think 350)... you are SOL.

dammit must spread rep :rant:
 
Apr 16, 2006
392
0
Golden, CO
Just powder coat over it :thumb:
Thats what I did wit ma' seat post, bottem bracket, headset, rear caliper mount, shock hardware etc. when i got my frame powercoated.
 

TomBo

Monkey
Jan 13, 2004
300
0
Calgary,Alberta
You muppet, take em out. Or at least try. If they don't come out, then don't get it powder coated.

Why must it be PC, won't a good paint job suffice. Your just going to beat the hell out of it...
 

DirtyMike

Turbo Fluffer
Aug 8, 2005
14,437
1,017
My own world inside my head
Maybe it sjust me, But I have not had trouble with these headsets going in, or coming out, But maybe thats because I use the proper tools prior to installing, you know a Headtube facer/reamer!!!! You gotta make sure the inside of your headtube is straight and deep enough for these headsets.

Here, Linky to the tool I described

http://www.parktool.com/products/detail.asp?cat=48&item=HTR-1B

Use that before putting your headsets in, then use this to take them out.

http://www.parktool.com/products/detail.asp?cat=50&item=RT-1


P.S. for those that use a hammer and a peice of wood to install there headsets, this is what the proper tool looks like

http://www.parktool.com/products/detail.asp?cat=50&item=HHP-2
 

donkeyWC

Chimp
May 5, 2007
84
0
Maybe it sjust me, But I have not had trouble with these headsets going in, or coming out, But maybe thats because I use the proper tools prior to installing, you know a Headtube facer/reamer!!!! You gotta make sure the inside of your headtube is straight and deep enough for these headsets.

Here, Linky to the tool I described

http://www.parktool.com/products/detail.asp?cat=48&item=HTR-1B

Use that before putting your headsets in, then use this to take them out.

http://www.parktool.com/products/detail.asp?cat=50&item=RT-1


P.S. for those that use a hammer and a peice of wood to install there headsets, this is what the proper tool looks like

http://www.parktool.com/products/detail.asp?cat=50&item=HHP-2
don't forget the reamer extension for deep reaming on those or you'll still run into problems. http://www.parktool.com/products/detail.asp?cat=51&item=769 but i'm sure you just left that out of your post by mistake. ;)
 

TomBo

Monkey
Jan 13, 2004
300
0
Calgary,Alberta
LAMO reamer extension. I see how it applies to the given tooling and use. If they just made the handle slightly smaller in diameter then the reamer. Then you would not need the extension. Simply leave the facer off, ream. Then Face. No need for an extra tool. Call me crazy, but someone made a slight over sight on the the process planing here. And now any one that wants a DEEP headset will have to pay.

Sorry if this is a bit over the top, but I have been enjoying a few brews. Work has been driving me nuts. The Programmer/lead hand in the mill bay, at the machine shop I work at is driving me nuts. With his backwards planing, over sights and poor tool paths. :rant:
 

TomBo

Monkey
Jan 13, 2004
300
0
Calgary,Alberta
Yes, you are right, how ever the margin of error, when you replace the the facer back on top of the reamer would be so slight that it is easy to justify. Simply not having a extension.

Ok, so the consumer did have to pay up front for the extra tool. The shop did. Thats really not my point. The point is that no one would have had to pay for it.

A post thought I had was that, it is a fail safe. As you can't go too deep when its done in one pass/setup. KISS. To that end I retract my previous statement.
 
Jan 12, 2005
200
0
Lancashire (U.K)
Righto-the headset is in a Brooklyn Racelink, it was put there by the PO, the headtube was prepped to accept it.

Im an engineer-in my world of KISS, removing the cups is a no-no, hence the Q of either removing the bearings or leaving them in place but washing the grease out.

I'll ring the UK distributers and see how much a pair of bearings are just in case it all goes pear shaped.