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Upgraded from a shwinn.

PiercerMan

Chimp
Apr 27, 2008
34
0
BMXmuseum.com
It has pretty much everything I was looking for. Nice rims with profile cassettes, lightweight frame. The only thing I'm gonna do to it is get profile crank arms.
 

v-digit

Turbo Monkey
Apr 3, 2006
1,218
0
Brooklyn, NY
nice bike bro - good score.
one thing - i used to have that same exact seatpost/seat - and that seatpost is the heaviest thing money can buy, literally. u'd drop a pound or more if u switch to something reasonable.

enjoy the ride!
 

jonKranked

Detective Dookie
Nov 10, 2005
85,925
24,500
media blackout
don't let these wankers get to you. If it rolls and you are having fun, that's what counts!


But yes, recently I made an upgrade to a more modern, lighter bmx bike. Since then I've learned a lot of new things, many of them I actually felt hindered because of the weight of my old bike (which was a tank. FWIW it was built primarily of hand-me-down components when I was a mechanic. All the other wrenches gave me their old parts when they found out I was building a 20").
 

FR4life.

Monkey
Nov 2, 2004
606
0
The Bay
That is a good deal, with the profile hubs. that seatpost though, soooo heavy. I had one of those that came on my old standard, quickly switched to an intac. Best post for the price imo if you're not going pivotal. Now all you need is some riding shots!
 

PiercerMan

Chimp
Apr 27, 2008
34
0
BMXmuseum.com
That is a good deal, with the profile hubs. that seatpost though, soooo heavy. I had one of those that came on my old standard, quickly switched to an intac. Best post for the price imo if you're not going pivotal. Now all you need is some riding shots!
First I have to relearn how to do everything. HA! I haven't jumped since the late 80's/ *feels old* :(
 

v-digit

Turbo Monkey
Apr 3, 2006
1,218
0
Brooklyn, NY
That is a good deal, with the profile hubs. that seatpost though, soooo heavy. I had one of those that came on my old standard, quickly switched to an intac. Best post for the price imo if you're not going pivotal. Now all you need is some riding shots!
exactly what i said! :)
i recall ordering one of those from danscomp for a friend like 4 years ago, because he wanted something as cheap as possible..... then looking at its weight after - and it was litteraly THE HEAVIEST seatpost on the market, ever.
funny stuff.
not telling u to do this and that to your bike, but i'm sure u'd appreciate what a new, 10$ seatpost will do for ya.
 

cmc

Turbo Monkey
Nov 17, 2006
2,052
6
austin
that's a rad bike.

how does the bike feel balance wise (front heavy, back heavy, even?) like if it has race bars and race forks, it'll have a light front end...

but if those are STA Bash forks and mid-school Strip bars, then just keep the heavier seatpost. there is no point in making your bike lighter in the back (while it is still heavy in the front) unless you're planning on doing tailwhips.
 
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BikeSATORI

Monkey
Apr 13, 2007
720
0
one world...
Nice mid-school score, looks stout.

...and yeah, I admit to having one of those primo rods too, w/ the hemmorhoid, on my WTP Thrillseeker. Back when I thought 36t was outrageously small for a sprocket too, haha!
 

PiercerMan

Chimp
Apr 27, 2008
34
0
BMXmuseum.com
that's a rad bike.

how does the bike feel balance wise (front heavy, back heavy, even?) like if it has race bars and race forks, it'll have a light front end...

but if those are STA Bash forks and mid-school Strip bars, then just keep the heavier seatpost. there is no point in making your bike lighter in the back (while it is still heavy in the front) unless you're planning on doing tailwhips.
The forks are the only thing I don't know what they are. I was told they are S&M pitchforks. But unsure. The weight check I'll do tommorrow when I get more time. I'm still getting a feeling for it.

Parts:
Standard Frame
Standard bars
Unknown forks
GT stem
Frankenstein headset
mosh seat
primo seatpost
hershey seat clamp
FSA crank arms
Profile spindle
mavic rims
profile cassette hubs
 
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newrider3

Monkey
Oct 13, 2007
212
0
Colorado
While you have it apart you should cut off some of the excess seat tube. You only really need enough to put the clamp on, as long as you extend the slot as well.