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Black Market 24"

opjones

opjones

Monkey
Aug 17, 2006
678
0
Detroit
Looks like blk mrkt is getting their hands in the 24" wheeled bike. Why not thou right, they've got solid 2-6's and a good name. Carter posted these up over on his blog, looks like it's going to be call "Contraband". Looks like a pressed BB, Disc ready, probably a longer chain stay with that gusset down on the CS. integrated HS, no geo given.









 
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t1maglio

Monkey
Oct 29, 2001
855
0
southern wisconsin
Personally I would like to see a rim brake options. Disks are cool, but most guys are using 24" setups for DJing, skatepark, and street applications where disks get in the way or are easily damaged. Just my personal opinion.

On the other hand, I love BLk MRKT. Probably could have saved some money getting my Tonic if this had come out sooner :-) Kidding, of course.
 
opjones

opjones

Monkey
Aug 17, 2006
678
0
Detroit
Probably 135mm spacing in there rear, so any disc ready mtb hub will work. I understand the argument for rim brakes on a 24" thou.
 
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climbingbubba

Monkey
May 24, 2007
354
0
im sure it will be sweet but the CS look way too long. im waiting for someone to do sub 14" chainstays on a 24" specific frame, 72 headangle, maybe 22 tt, rim brake of coarse, and bmx spacing. would be sick.
 
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t1maglio

Monkey
Oct 29, 2001
855
0
southern wisconsin
My Tonic is sitting right about at 14 and it manuals awesome. It could be shorter, but I definitely wouldn't want it to be any longer. Its just a matter of what your used to. I used to struggle with something that short on a 20", now I have mine at 13.75" which works out nicely, again, it could be shorter.
 
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DThomson

Monkey
Nov 1, 2004
279
0
it would manual like crazy, maybe too crazy for my liking. it wouldn't be stable on a big fast set of trails tho. like t1mag said, its all just a matter of what you're used to.
 
don

don

Turbo Monkey
Nov 8, 2001
1,319
0
Rumson, NJ
Bulldog said:
Discs + BMX type riding = Dumb. V-brake is where it's at.
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Yup. I remember riding park a few time w/ my disc bike years ago and always worried about the rotor getting bent just getting onto ramps. And forget about them no street.

Add the U-brake/990 to the v. IMO, the 990 does a fine job when they are working right. They are very compact too.
 
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climbingbubba

Monkey
May 24, 2007
354
0
t1maglio said:
My Tonic is sitting right about at 14 and it manuals awesome. It could be shorter, but I definitely wouldn't want it to be any longer. Its just a matter of what your used to. I used to struggle with something that short on a 20", now I have mine at 13.75" which works out nicely, again, it could be shorter.
Click to expand...

holy crap man, how did you get your tonic to 14? i thought the shortest was 14.75. at least thats what their site says.
i agree with the what your used to thing, i ride with a guy who can manual a p1 for ever. i have to pull as hard as i can just to get the front end up when i try his. i don't do big trails so the unstable thing wouldn't matter.
plus most frames have a minimum but with cog sizes and chain lengths its hard to get it slammed. if you had 13.8" CS it would make it around 14 when you had everything together and tensioned right.

like i said, i would like to try it, if it sucked i could just run the rear axle further back in the dropouts.
 
Stoked

Stoked

Turbo Monkey
Nov 28, 2004
1,809
1
LI, NY
older version(s) tonic had the curved stays and 14.75 cs. new one is 14.25 cs.

t1,
is that slammed? i thought the new one was 14.25 slammed.
 
Bulldog

Bulldog

Turbo Monkey
Sep 11, 2001
1,009
0
Wisconsin
don said:
Yup. I remember riding park a few time w/ my disc bike years ago and always worried about the rotor getting bent just getting onto ramps. And forget about them no street.

Add the U-brake/990 to the v. IMO, the 990 does a fine job when they are working right. They are very compact too.
Click to expand...
I'm not a fan of U-brakes either. The cheapest V-brake is stupid easy to get acceptable power from for this use.

On my cruiser I've got a nice stiff Snafu lever, Evolver brake and full length steel braided housing and still am not happy with the power. What are your recommendations for stickiest pads? I don't manual and I'm a super-Clyde so modulation is not of much concern to me. I want raw stopping power.
 
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ThePriceSeliger

Mushhead
Mar 31, 2004
4,860
0
Denver, Colorado
Bulldog said:
Discs + BMX type riding = Dumb. V-brake is where it's at.
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Please explain? I have never had one problem, ever! And the people I ride with are only BMX'ers so my style is somewhat the same. And honestly, I don't even care about my Nem-Pro, if it gets dented or anything, and I've had the same brake on two bikes and never had a problem. AND I run a peg!
 
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t1maglio

Monkey
Oct 29, 2001
855
0
southern wisconsin
Ooops, so I just ran out to the garage and realized my before stated length was a little optimistic. I am right at 14.25". That being said, I think I would be ok with 14, but below that might be a bit much. I love a super tight backend (bikes and ladies, mind you) but that might be a touch to much for me.

As for the disk brakes, do you guys remember when Porter did that rail (a little older video) on his mtb. He had to take his rotor OFF in order to do it. If you grind with pegs you on the right side (when your seated on the bike) I imagine you could be just fine, but if you grind on the left you are asking for problems. My chainstays on my T1 from bbrkt to dropout are torn up from hitting during grinding (I do pedals, not pegs, FYI). If I was doing the same thing with an MTB with a disk brake, well, I wouldn't have a disk brake, or I would be replacing them left and right. Maybe I'm wrong, but I'm not so confident its a good idea (and with the cost of such brakes, no thanks).

Oh, and half link chain will make the perfect length easily createable. Love those chains!
 
Bulldog

Bulldog

Turbo Monkey
Sep 11, 2001
1,009
0
Wisconsin
ThePriceSeliger said:
Please explain? I have never had one problem, ever! And the people I ride with are only BMX'ers so my style is somewhat the same. And honestly, I don't even care about my Nem-Pro, if it gets dented or anything, and I've had the same brake on two bikes and never had a problem. AND I run a peg!
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Yes discs in this application are dumb. Overkill. Overpriced. Overly complicated. Overweight. I've never found any advantage for this application. And for the record I love discs, just not on a bmx bike.
 
FR4life.

FR4life.

Monkey
Nov 2, 2004
606
0
The Bay
I hit pedal grinds on the left side with my 26 all day, and have never had issues with my rotor hanging up, although my crank arm and chainstay do get the occasional shaving. I agree that U brakes are better for bmx type riding cause they are designed to lock up rather than slow you down like a disc, but having the smallest hop in your rim will fvck with your braking power/alignment. I mean, you can true your wheel to get rid of the side-to-side wobble, but when you have flatspots rim brakes drive me crazy... It's almost like the rim does the modulating for you, all the time.
 
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t1maglio

Monkey
Oct 29, 2001
855
0
southern wisconsin
FR4life. said:
I hit pedal grinds on the left side with my 26 all day, and have never had issues with my rotor hanging up, although my crank arm and chainstay do get the occasional shaving. I agree that U brakes are better for bmx type riding cause they are designed to lock up rather than slow you down like a disc, but having the smallest hop in your rim will fvck with your braking power/alignment. I mean, you can true your wheel to get rid of the side-to-side wobble, but when you have flatspots rim brakes drive me crazy... It's almost like the rim does the modulating for you, all the time.
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I would say your either very precise or very lucky. I do agree with the rim stuff. I personally have no issues with my rims (bmx or MTB) but perhaps I just have made good choices with them. If there was a way to make disks less in the way I might be more for it (some type of guard like bmx hub guards). I also feel that the on an off nature of disks (and v-brakes) is horribly annoying. U-brakes, if they can be set-up well, are ideal, but there is a lot of sketchy middle ground with them. I'm enticed by the new clear pads.

Personally, I'll stick with my Tonic the way it is.
 
don

don

Turbo Monkey
Nov 8, 2001
1,319
0
Rumson, NJ
Bulldog said:
I'm not a fan of U-brakes either. The cheapest V-brake is stupid easy to get acceptable power from for this use.

On my cruiser I've got a nice stiff Snafu lever, Evolver brake and full length steel braided housing and still am not happy with the power. What are your recommendations for stickiest pads? I don't manual and I'm a super-Clyde so modulation is not of much concern to me. I want raw stopping power.
Click to expand...
I'm running the following on my USB:

- Odyssey Monolever Trigger
- Odysset Linear Cable
- Knight Cable Hanger - I'm sure this doesn't make much difference but does look good
- Kool Stop Eagle 2 pads - black
- Sun Rhino Lite XL rims
- Revenge Brakes - these things are impressive

It didn't take me too long to get them working well. The Revenge instructions are good. I'm 215 lbs and they stop my fine.
 
sealclubber

sealclubber

Monkey
Nov 21, 2007
543
10
climbingbubba said:
holy crap man, how did you get your tonic to 14? i thought the shortest was 14.75. at least thats what their site says.
i agree with the what your used to thing, i ride with a guy who can manual a p1 for ever. i have to pull as hard as i can just to get the front end up when i try his. i don't do big trails so the unstable thing wouldn't matter.
plus most frames have a minimum but with cog sizes and chain lengths its hard to get it slammed. if you had 13.8" CS it would make it around 14 when you had everything together and tensioned right.

like i said, i would like to try it, if it sucked i could just run the rear axle further back in the dropouts.
Click to expand...


p1 is a manual machine
 
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