Ck?

FOXROX said:

ok lol, so they all do that? and its not going to explode? :Þ

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H8R said:

You're doing it wrong.

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FOXROX said:

.....I mean i cant be beating it that hard, i mean im 13 lol.......

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stinkyboy said:

Wait, you're touring in Europe and posting here. Pretty sure you're doing it wrong...

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chrisking.com said:

PREPARATION:

Frame Preparation:
Head tube preparation is one of the most important and most often overlooked elements in headset setup and performance. Especially with high end frames, it is often assumed that if a frame is new or already has a headset installed that the frame must have been properly prepared at the factory. This is very often not the case. We recommend a careful inspection of the facing and reaming of the head tube before installation.

Ream and face the head tube as necessary to ensure that the head tube is faced square and bored to the proper dimensions (see chart below).

Using a small file or sand paper, carefully remove any sharp edges or burrs and slightly round the inside edges of the head tube at the top and bottom to prevent shearing any metal from the cups during installation.

Clean to remove any chips, shavings, and/or cutting oil.

The proper press fit should be with no more than .1mm (.004") of interference. See chart below for correct head tube bore size. Do not file or otherwise remove material from the cups to make them fit.

Facing Tolerance:
The recommended tolerances for parallelness of the end faces of the head tube is not to exceed .075mm (.003"). Because facing tolerance is actually more complicated than just having the faces parallel, there is really no accurate way for the average bike shop to measure it. We recommend inking the faces of the head tube with a marker and using the facing tool to see that it removes the ink evenly and completely all the way around. Be sure to use the center guide in the opposing bore to assure alignment. Cut metal as necessary until all of the ink is removed.


Bore Sizing:
Head Tube Bore Size
1" Standard 30.1mm
1" BMX 32.7mm
1-1/8" 33.9mm
1-1/4" 36.9mm

Most reamers are .2mm under the nominal cup size while we recommend that the head tube bore be cut to .1mm under. The use of these reamers will produce varying finished bore sizes depending on the properties of the material being cut, and how much reaming is performed. With many materials you may net the correct bore size, however, on materials such as titanium or hard aluminum, the reamer may cut a clean bore in its exact size or smaller. On the other hand, if you face a lot of material with the reamer in the bore, the reamed bore may become oversized. Because the equipment necessary to determine exact bore sizes is not commonly found in most bicycle shops, attentively pressing the cups is the most practical test. It shouldnít be necessary to ìreef" on the press. An exceedingly difficult cup press is an indication that the head tube bore is undersized. If the bore is still undersized after reaming, it may be necessary to use another method to achieve the proper size. One trick we have used is to first press cheap steel headset cups to smooth and stretch the bore slightly. Then, remove and press our cups.

**Note**
The SteelSet headset uses a 1" deep cup skirt that will require a deeper bore than a conventional frame will have. The depth of the bore must exceed the depth of the skirt by a minimum of .25" (~7mm) for a total depth of 1.25" (~32mm) in order to get a cup removal tool behind the cup skirt. Even then, the geometry of the inside of the head tube may make SteelSet removal impossible and some frames are simply not compatible with the SteelSet. Reaming your head tube bore deeper than its stock condition may void your frame warranty and could critically weaken your frame. Check with your frame manufacturer before installing a SteelSet in your bike or reaming your head tube bore any deeper than they did at the frame factory.

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Additional Edge Preparation:
Another aspect of preparation that is often overlooked is the chamfer on the inside of the head tube bore (top and bottom) and the removal of any sharp edges or burrs. We recommend a chamfer width of .25mm (.010"). A clean chamfer allows the cup to be pressed without shaving metal and to sit flat against the tube face without cutting into the small radius in the corner of the cup skirt. A cut in this area of the cup may cause cracks to form over time.

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INSTALLATION:

Pressing Cups:
For proper installation of the cups, the press fit sizing and facing should be within our recommendations (See Frame Preparation, Facing Tolerance, and Bore Sizing above). After reaming and facing or verification of tolerances, test fit cups by attempting to insert them into frame by hand. This test will only indicate an oversize bore condition but is very important. The cup should only begin to fit into the bore less than a millimeter. If the cup can be inserted by hand more than 1/3 the total distance, the bore is too big for a proper fit. This loose fit may result in movement of the cup in the frame possibly causing creaking noises and stretching of the headtube. Oversize cups are available in incremented sized to establish proper fit into frame.

NOTE: We do not recommend using Loc-Tite and/or similar products to make up for a loose fit as the load forces tend to exceed their holding power causing them to disintegrate and allow movement. While they may seem to work at first, they will usually fail in less than a year. We recommend using our headset installation adapters on the headset press. These adapters help ensure that pressure is applied evenly across the top of the cup and not on the bearing and that the cups press straight into the frame without damage from the tool.

For proper alignment and fit, both cups must be inserted parallel and square to the head tube. Press in both bearing cups using a headset installation press fitted with our press tool adapters.

Note: We do not recommend for or against the application of grease, antisieze, or Loc Tite while pressing in cups with a proper fit – we leave this choise to the discretion of the mechanic installing the headset.

Once the cups are pressed in, they should be seated flatly against the head tube. If they do not sit flat, the chamfer on the head tube bore may be inadequate or the head tube bore may not be parallel to the head tube axis.

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Fork Preparation:
Reaming and facing of the fork may be necessary, but is not critical unless it is grossly out of parallel or oversize. The crown race face and seat should be square and parallel to the steerer tube and its outer diameter should not exceed .1mm larger than the inner diameter of the base plate. Most available reamers/facers are adequate for these tolerances. Clean to remove any chips, shavings, and/or cutting oil. The proper press fit should be with no more than .1mm (.004") of interference. See chart below for correct crown race seat size.

Base Plate Seat O.D. 1" Standard 26.5mm
1" BMX 26.5mm
1-1/8" 30.1mm
1-1/4" 33.1mm

Note: Do not attempt to install a baseplate that does not press properly. Centerpunching, knurling, and/or the application of LocTite or similar products is not recommended as the load forces will exceed the holding power of any of these treatments and eventually allow the baseplate to move. This movement will seemingly create a loose headset effect. Baseplates with undersized bores are available in incremented sizes for proper fit.

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Installation of Base Plate:
Slide the base plate, conical side up, onto the steerer tube. With the beveled side of the base plate installation adapter against the base plate, use a crown race setting tool to set the base plate. The base plate installation adapter helps to protect the conical bearing contact surface on the base plate from damage due to the crown race installation tool.

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DirtyMike said:

I just love how CK headsets are asking that you use a different face/ream tool to get less of an interference fit with there product. Almost sounds like a way for you to end up being stuck with there product. i know were talking .1mm differnce, but Man there being a bit anal arent they, funny how its always teh CK headsets on a DC fork making noise, but its always "Your doing it wrong" is the answer. Its also funny how Other headsets dont have the issue with creaking like CK does....I think I will refer back to My original post.......Get a different headset, your problems will be cured

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H8R said:

Like I said, use whatever headset you like, just be a real man and learn to install it yourself, correctly. You'll save money and let's face it, only an asshole installs parts incorrectly on their bike.

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davep said:

It has nothing to do with the install (well it could, but there is more to it). The creaking id from the top cap rocking back and forth on the steer tube. It is not the cups. It is not the crown race, it is not the scuff washer. IT rocks because the top cap does NOT contact the steer tube at all..thus it is allowed to move. THis design was originally for a threaded interface, where the top cap threaded on to the fork. THen a locknut was jammed against the top cap, effectively constraining the top cap in all directions.

When the bike world went threadless, CC patented the 'aheadset'. THis patent covers the use of a collet clamp type compression ring that wedges/clamps against the steer tube. For whatever reason, king does not/cannot use this design and adapted their threaded design the threadless application.

The design of the top cap translates for and aft forces in the fork to up and down forces in the top cap....the cap litterally rocks back and forth on the bearing at the bevel interface. THIS IS THE CAUSE OF THE NOISE. Over time, the aluminum top cap well gall and the noise will get worse.

This same design is exactly why King headsets have more of a tendancy to loosen over time. THat top cap rocking allows the cap and thus stem to 'walk' up the steer tube.....again the fore and aft fork forces are translated into 'upward' forces at the top cap.....pushing everything 'up'.

Headsets that use the CC collet clamp style compression ring dont have any of these attributes.


I have explained this many times over....even drawn a free body diagram to help someone understand what is going on......

King uses great materails, their bearings are wonderful, but their archival enginering leaves much to be desired. They could have some great product if they were simply willing/able to be critical of their own designs....they are obviously not......

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Hacktastic said:

Over King headsets (and products in general) after running them for years. Not worth the cost, the weakness, or the hassle.

Running a Sunline V1 DH headset on the big bike at the moment. Flawless and secure.

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Curious_George said:

I haven't meet a shop to date that has actually used a reamer/facer to install a headset....lets keepz it realz..where in 2008...frames are reamed and faced..enought with the bull...call me out if yourz wasnt PERFECT

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DirtyMike said:

Consider yourself met, We do not install headsets without reaming and facing, PERIOD, Not do we install BB's without facing them. We even have the cool extender for the 1in deep steel headsets that we put in from time to time when we get the ovalized headtubes from someone else misintalling a headset. If your fromt he area, you can look at my bike and see what a properly faced BB and headtube looks like.

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Curious_George said:

my best bet the best hp/bb reamer facer would be park?

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Curious_George said:

i mean lets keepz it realz for a second
Now even though carbon frames have aluminum cups in their BB and HP i've never i doubt whether you could face those....

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