Does anyone have some sorta review for one?
Canfield Brothers Formula 1 Jedi
- Thread starter Salty_T_Dog
- Start date
Bullcrew has one. Haven't seen him around much lately, but I've gotten to ride it a bit, and the bike freakin' rules. FWIW Bullcrew owns more than one Canfield, and would be able to give you some great feedback, if he's ever around.
bullcrew did a good review on mtbr on his jedi. I read it and some other reviews on mtbr. Then I bought a Jedi...love it. Handles well at high speed, rails corners, jumps well and it pedals very well. Very solid DH bike.
Main thing about the bike, it is one of maybe one or two bikes on the market which incorporate pivot assemblies that show any kind of common sense and engineering knowledge when it comes to stress analysis. My previous bike was a chumba f4 which showed no attempt at any type of professional engineering knowledge when they choose the hardware for their linkage assembly. So i redesigned the pivot to what should have been there, can't find the photos on this computer but I will take new ones when I pull my f4 frame out of its tomb in my parents garage.
bottom line...I feel the jedi is the best choice for a new frame this year and many more years to come.
Main thing about the bike, it is one of maybe one or two bikes on the market which incorporate pivot assemblies that show any kind of common sense and engineering knowledge when it comes to stress analysis. My previous bike was a chumba f4 which showed no attempt at any type of professional engineering knowledge when they choose the hardware for their linkage assembly. So i redesigned the pivot to what should have been there, can't find the photos on this computer but I will take new ones when I pull my f4 frame out of its tomb in my parents garage.
bottom line...I feel the jedi is the best choice for a new frame this year and many more years to come.
They seem like really sick bikes - light, pedal well, absorb bumps nicely, etc. - but I can't for the life of me understand why they designed in such crappy rear wheel clearance. Some 2.5's don't fit, and those that do fit (Minnion DHF) have microscopic clearance between the tread and the upper yolk. It seems like they'd have a homerun with that bike if they could just correct that weird anomoly.
wonder how they'll do in the wet, seems like dry was in mind when they designed it.
any explanation of what you mean by that?
seams like a great bike, since its a inward axle path, when the suspention descompresses after a hit, it will pump whatever its on.
why in the world would you want to run anything above a 2.5 in the back anyways?
tell me your joking. and that pinkbike hasn't finally taken over the (bicycle related) internet.
I think he's saying a 2.5 (a small one like a Minion) barely fits. Ample clearance for a 2.5" (any brand) tire should be standard on a DH bike.
Not sure why you would want MORE than a 2.5, but as I understand there are several 2.5s that dont fit and that is bad. IIRC BC could not put a 2.5 nevegal on there....so a mich 2.5 probabaly would not fit either.
Outside of the southwest, there is also this thing called rain, that results in wet dirt called mud. This mud sticks to tires making them effectively wider. The mud also has abrasive qualities and over time can wear away at the aluminum frame.....
Oh yea, on a DH bike, many times the rear rim might not be 100% true. Tight fit plus small rear wheel wobble = big 'ol notch worn frame....
the tyre clearance is very tight, but it's not really an issue in the mud,
i ride in the mud often and it tends to clean the tyre as it goes through the rear triangle.
i ride in the mud often and it tends to clean the tyre as it goes through the rear triangle.
I think he means that when the suspension rebounds, the motion will allow you to pump over small rises and bumps on the trail.
If that is even possible.
If that is even possible.
In what language???
i cant find were i read that, but i read it somewere, if i find it ill post it
no need to rush....
you will not find it. One of the most notable traits about the bike is that it has an EXTREMELY rearward axle path, you're probably confusing it with another bike
Could i do something simple if i were to have this bike and put duct tape around the rear triangle like one time around sound it wouldn't stick out that bad to prevent corrosion on the triangle? I know that wont stop a untrued rim but it will help with mud i think? just ghetto lol
maybe, but im pretty sure thats the bike
Reading is fun. Thanks for arguing a point that I never made.
I noted that some 2.5's won't fit at all, and any amount of dirt even in a small 2.5 like a minion will start to wreak havoc - my buddy's had all kinds of nicks in the yolk after a weak of bone dry riding at Whistler. I've got to imagine that it would take very little mud to seize the wheel up completely, and if your wheel came out of true or developed a 'hop' in it, fuggetaboudit.
He might be talking about the rebound/forward axle path??
also with a rearward travel bike you can get away with a smaller rear tyre, i run 2.3" or even a trail tyre
Gotta agree with John P.
A few years ago, I had a bike with similar clearance issues, it was a PITA. Especially if the mud had clay. Even pushing it around while walking, the tires would pick up tiny stones and they would get stuck between the yoke and tire and actually lock up tire. I'd have to stop and rotate the tire backwards to get the stone out. One time I was pedalling around and picked up a pebble large enough to bring the bike to a skidding stop while I was riding it.
To the guy who asked who would want to ride a tire larger then 2.5, I would answer, most people. That's because the comment was made in regards to a 2.5 Maxxis, which is about the size of most other manufacturers 2.35's. So that means that virtually no other 2.5 would fit well. I'm pretty sure Bullcrew actually shaved down the center treads on one of his new 2.5's in order to get it to fit.
I considered the Jedi for my next bike and the rear tire clearance was a deal breaker for me. My only guess for the reasoning behind it is trying to keep the rear chainstays as short as possible, the lower link is definitely robbing space that could go towards tire clearance.
A few years ago, I had a bike with similar clearance issues, it was a PITA. Especially if the mud had clay. Even pushing it around while walking, the tires would pick up tiny stones and they would get stuck between the yoke and tire and actually lock up tire. I'd have to stop and rotate the tire backwards to get the stone out. One time I was pedalling around and picked up a pebble large enough to bring the bike to a skidding stop while I was riding it.
To the guy who asked who would want to ride a tire larger then 2.5, I would answer, most people. That's because the comment was made in regards to a 2.5 Maxxis, which is about the size of most other manufacturers 2.35's. So that means that virtually no other 2.5 would fit well. I'm pretty sure Bullcrew actually shaved down the center treads on one of his new 2.5's in order to get it to fit.
I considered the Jedi for my next bike and the rear tire clearance was a deal breaker for me. My only guess for the reasoning behind it is trying to keep the rear chainstays as short as possible, the lower link is definitely robbing space that could go towards tire clearance.
I learned to race DH at Platty. I know what rain is. Even in the rain I never ran anything over 2.5, just lowered the pressure a few PSI.
Check my title, its like a disclaimer for any post I make, courtesy of the site admins.
Anyways, I do agree, this is an issue. My guess is that Lance and Chris wanted the shortest chainstays they could get, and this was one of the sacrifices they made. But I could definitely see how people would think they went too far with short chainstays.
No worries.
The weird thing is that the clearance issue is at the UPPER yoke that connects the 'seat stays' (for lack of a better word). The one down by the chainstays actually has better clearance. Looking at the bike and how well designed it is otherwise, you've got to wonder whether why they didn't do it 'Sunday-style' and leave that junction open. ??
quit while your ahead. you have no idea what your talking about. and you hardly know how to ride a bike. is this the review lary? pinkbike.com
he wasn't saying that riding in the rain and mud requires tires bigger than 2.5. he was just pointing out to you that if you have a tire with very little clearance, and you ride in wet conditions, the abrasion on the frame that results from the mud/stones on the tire can be a real PIA.
for what its worth i just ordered 1, really nice on the phone and great with customer service, ill post pics sometime in the spring when i get the rest of the money to finish it.
Yes it's tight back there, but like jon Kranked said the whole purpose it to have a DH bike with 16.25" static chainstay's. It gives the bike a trail bike feel in super tight techy stuff, but still allows it to be stable at speed with the rearward arc of the wheelpath.
The solution to riding this bike in nasty, wet East Coast conditons, (I live at Killington and travel to Highland and Bromont a ton), is very simple!!! About a half an hour with a heat gun and a sheet of abs and here you go... I tried to get a good shot of the inside of the rear end, but as you can see the finish is in really good shape considering that I've been riding this since April. The fender keeps all the little pebbles out of the rear and linkage, plus it keeps all the crap from spraying on my shock. Problem solved!!!