Hello. I purchases a 2009 Turner RFX and im looking at building it towards the heavy duty all mountain side of the house. However I wanna keep it light and nimble at the same time. Was just wondering if anyone has some wheel suggestions for me. Im not a hack, ive had 729s last me a few seasons. Im also not looking to shell out my entire budget on the wheels alone. I know this has been a few times but hey, why not.
Heavy duty all mountain wheels.
- Thread starter nowlan
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Stan's ZTR Flow are fairly sturdy as well as fairly light. See the latest review on the front page.
I just got my Industry Nine Enduro wheels on Stan's ZTR Flow rims. The rims are wide and light. They are actually lighter than the Mavic 819 XC tubeless rim, which is awesome. The I-9's are rediculous, light, stiff and just generally badass.
If you are looking at saving some coin, do the Hope Hubs. They are pretty light, and reliable. Good hubs.
If you are looking at saving some coin, do the Hope Hubs. They are pretty light, and reliable. Good hubs.
hope proII on some EN 521 is what i will be rocking in the near future. the En 521 seems to be the light disc version on the EX721 that mavic also makes. it was a really nice and easy set of wheel to build.
sorry but i can't comment on the rims strength because they are still hanging in the garage awaiting their frame.
sorry but i can't comment on the rims strength because they are still hanging in the garage awaiting their frame.
Stans is located in upstate New York, and you can order online. My wheelset is built on hopes and I am very happy with the test units they sent over. So happy that I plan on having our entire downhill team on them next year.
http://www.notubes.com/
http://www.notubes.com/
How are you using those rims without the strips? It doesn't say UST compatible anywhere.
I have a set of them too, and while the rims are very impressive, the rimstrip stuff is a nightmare. Took 3 days to seal a Maxxis Advantage, with 3 damn scoops of the stans fluid.
ARG.
I have a set of them too, and while the rims are very impressive, the rimstrip stuff is a nightmare. Took 3 days to seal a Maxxis Advantage, with 3 damn scoops of the stans fluid.
ARG.
The ZTR rims???
They are tubeless rims from Stan's No Tubes. It is a UST compatible rim.
I am using the hard plastic rimstrip with valve that came installed from the factory. This is what Mike at Stan's recommended. It took all of about 30 seconds to seat and seal on a new tire with a floor pump. The old beat up tire took a compressor and some pushing on the tire to get it to inflate and seal.
Oh, and I seated them both without any fluid as a trial run.
They are tubeless rims from Stan's No Tubes. It is a UST compatible rim.
I am using the hard plastic rimstrip with valve that came installed from the factory. This is what Mike at Stan's recommended. It took all of about 30 seconds to seat and seal on a new tire with a floor pump. The old beat up tire took a compressor and some pushing on the tire to get it to inflate and seal.
Oh, and I seated them both without any fluid as a trial run.
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Easton Havoc AM. Bullet-proof, light and not terribly expensive.
See, I have the Flows, and used the rim strip with a kev beaded tire, and it was a nightmare and a half. Took 3 days to stop it from leaking at numerous spots at the bead. Used 3 scoops of STans in each. Then, on any heavy corner, the tire would burp. Tried it with nevegals too, same thing.
With a DH tire, I can easily see how that problem would be solved, what with the stronger sidewalls and beads, but as an all mountain setup....never again.
With a DH tire, I can easily see how that problem would be solved, what with the stronger sidewalls and beads, but as an all mountain setup....never again.
What was the first tire you tried?
My Experience with Nevegals tubeless has been complete suckage, they don't seal, they burp, they tear.
I heard the same thing about burping with XC tires, so I can imagine it'd be the same with light freeride tires. I was wary about this when testing them a few weeks ago. The only tires I have really tested so far are Michelin Comp 16s, followed by Maxxis Minions so I can't comment on any others.
Mine came with a little paper saying to use the rim strips if I was using 2 ply or light weight tires, and plastic tape only if I was using heavier tires. I think that is how it was worded anyways.
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I use tubeless on all of my bikes without any problems whatsoever. 721 with maxxis rim strips, and now the stans on their own. Michelin or Maxxis tires. The weight reduction and added traction alone are worth it to me.
You should be. Less weight, less flats and better traction.
I'd look into the Syncros DS28's in addition to the mavic rims previously mentioned. Nice tall profile for a super stiff rim.
Take a look at the new TBC allmountain wheels, light strong and inexpensive,they come in 20mm or 9mm front qr rear
heres a pic in qr trim
http://www.transitionbikes.com/2007/Components_Revolution.cfm
heres a pic in qr trim
http://www.transitionbikes.com/2007/Components_Revolution.cfm
And tubeless is not interested in you.
Kings laced to 819's running UST tires.
Outlaws!!!! and the 09s come in some Bling colors!!!!
Better traction due to the tire molding to the terrain. Non-existant amount of pinch flats due to lack of tube.
Ive never ridden tubeless so I cant really cant comment. Ok, let me rephrase myself....
As for the weight difference, tubes are lighter if you can get away with light tubes.Re tubeless and pinchflats: very much still a possibility. Instead of the tube, you pinch the tire. Seems to be a particular problem with Maxxis UST (I've had one in Whistler the first day I used the tire, and other Monkeys have reported the same - although it could be a particular problem with the Maxxis and Mavic 823 combo).
That said, tubeless is still worth a try. It ain't a cure all, but traction, weight, and the ability to run a relatively strong rim all point to at least trying tubeless. Oh yeah, and they resist punctures very well as long as you use sealant.
So on that note, try a DT Swiss 5.1 tubeless on Hopes, or just get the 1750 wheelset, and use DT Swiss's tubeless kit. Mavic's new Crossmax SX is looking pretty damn sweet too, and you don't need the kit. Cheaper options are out there too, including the Easton and Transition offerings mentioned above.
That said, tubeless is still worth a try. It ain't a cure all, but traction, weight, and the ability to run a relatively strong rim all point to at least trying tubeless. Oh yeah, and they resist punctures very well as long as you use sealant.
So on that note, try a DT Swiss 5.1 tubeless on Hopes, or just get the 1750 wheelset, and use DT Swiss's tubeless kit. Mavic's new Crossmax SX is looking pretty damn sweet too, and you don't need the kit. Cheaper options are out there too, including the Easton and Transition offerings mentioned above.
Seems to me there's a lot of myths out there with respect to running tubeless.
Especially with respect to weight: here's some math to consider
regular tube ~ 200 grams x 2 = 400
lightweight tube ~ 130 grams x 2 = 260
Tubeless set up: both tires with Stans 282 grams
see - http://www.sicklines.com/tech/intense_socom_fro/intense_socom_fro_6/
Obviously, running tubeless has its pluses and minuses, but certainly weight ain't a reason NOT to go tubeless.
IMO, the other very important consideration is strength. When run tubeless, some rim combos actually give you more strength for the very similar weight overall (once tubes are factored in) - i.e. an 823 tubeless v. a 721 tubeless. While the latter is a very good rim, when you add the regular tube, you're at the same weight as the 823 with some stans.
see http://www.sicklines.com/2008/02/04/2008-mavic-ex-823-and-mavic-ex-721/#more-2039
I raise this because Mavic UST offerings don't require rim strips. And as such, their actual weight corresponds to a stronger wheel, whereas other options are adding weight but no strength.
Sorry for the derail.
Especially with respect to weight: here's some math to consider
regular tube ~ 200 grams x 2 = 400
lightweight tube ~ 130 grams x 2 = 260
Tubeless set up: both tires with Stans 282 grams
see - http://www.sicklines.com/tech/intense_socom_fro/intense_socom_fro_6/
Obviously, running tubeless has its pluses and minuses, but certainly weight ain't a reason NOT to go tubeless.
IMO, the other very important consideration is strength. When run tubeless, some rim combos actually give you more strength for the very similar weight overall (once tubes are factored in) - i.e. an 823 tubeless v. a 721 tubeless. While the latter is a very good rim, when you add the regular tube, you're at the same weight as the 823 with some stans.
see http://www.sicklines.com/2008/02/04/2008-mavic-ex-823-and-mavic-ex-721/#more-2039
I raise this because Mavic UST offerings don't require rim strips. And as such, their actual weight corresponds to a stronger wheel, whereas other options are adding weight but no strength.
Sorry for the derail.
I'll second the Easton Havoc AM rims. They are relatively light, hold up well and are convertible between QR and 20mm on the front. They are a bit spendy but can be found at a pretty good discount now and again.
If you don't mind a bit more weight, the Outlaws are great and cheap.
If you don't mind a bit more weight, the Outlaws are great and cheap.
I'll third the havoc AMs. I got a pair new for $400 a while back (1.5 yrs?), and a friend of mine found them recently online for $400 new.
the rims are wide and strong. inner rim width is 22.5 mm -- i.e. about equal to mav 823s. i run them with stans rubber strips and various tires tubeless, no issues. hub has 36 pt engagement, which is not as sweet as my 72 pt hadleys but works fine. the pawl retention spring is fairly low tension, which means the freehub action is super silky and low drag. as with hadleys and kings, the best grease for the pawl is the Chris King lube (which has the consistency of hand lotion -- very low viscosity).
you get the straight-pull spoke advantage of I9, but the spokes are straight guage steel. since my bikes sometimes get battered by sharp rocks, this is a big plus vs the alu spokes on I9s (I9 freely admits this, so i give 'em points for honesty).
as a 195 lb hack i'm not easy on wheels but the havocs have had outstanding durability on my AM bike.
okay so for well under $500 these wheels seem perfect, right? well almost. the front 20mm endcaps have a frustrating tendency to fall out when you are inserting the wheel into the fork. And, last I checked, easton was not offering endcaps for the rear to enable 10 mm thru axle. I run all my bikes, even my superlight single speed hardtail, with 10 mm thru axles, and consider QR skewers to be idiotic and obsolete, so this limitation on the havocs means I prefer them on frames (e.g. DW link) that have a rigid rear end.
the rims are wide and strong. inner rim width is 22.5 mm -- i.e. about equal to mav 823s. i run them with stans rubber strips and various tires tubeless, no issues. hub has 36 pt engagement, which is not as sweet as my 72 pt hadleys but works fine. the pawl retention spring is fairly low tension, which means the freehub action is super silky and low drag. as with hadleys and kings, the best grease for the pawl is the Chris King lube (which has the consistency of hand lotion -- very low viscosity).
you get the straight-pull spoke advantage of I9, but the spokes are straight guage steel. since my bikes sometimes get battered by sharp rocks, this is a big plus vs the alu spokes on I9s (I9 freely admits this, so i give 'em points for honesty).
as a 195 lb hack i'm not easy on wheels but the havocs have had outstanding durability on my AM bike.
okay so for well under $500 these wheels seem perfect, right? well almost. the front 20mm endcaps have a frustrating tendency to fall out when you are inserting the wheel into the fork. And, last I checked, easton was not offering endcaps for the rear to enable 10 mm thru axle. I run all my bikes, even my superlight single speed hardtail, with 10 mm thru axles, and consider QR skewers to be idiotic and obsolete, so this limitation on the havocs means I prefer them on frames (e.g. DW link) that have a rigid rear end.
would you recommend them for a do-it-all bike on a sx-trail basis?
I'd love to run tubeless on my bikes. But i can't really afford two sets of wheels right now.
Do many of the top Dh racers use tubeless? Seems like the vids that i've watched have some of them still using tubes. I know i have a vid (might be hypnosis) that showed Graves with a tube all wrapped up in his rear wheel at Ft. Bill. And another that showed Sam HIll in Schladming with a tube that came out when he didn't clear some rocks.
Do many of the top Dh racers use tubeless? Seems like the vids that i've watched have some of them still using tubes. I know i have a vid (might be hypnosis) that showed Graves with a tube all wrapped up in his rear wheel at Ft. Bill. And another that showed Sam HIll in Schladming with a tube that came out when he didn't clear some rocks.
Take a look at the Spinergy xclone enduro... I've ran them all season on a couple of my bikes...
http://www.spinergy.com/Bicycle/xycloneEnduro.html
http://www.spinergy.com/Bicycle/xycloneEnduro.html
