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MTB photography Article - UPDATE pt. 3

bikenweed

Turbo Monkey
Oct 21, 2004
2,432
0
Los Osos
There is a few kicking around, but they usually aren't great for one reason or another. G10 is a great camera with all manual controls, but is bulky and heavy. I am not 100% sure if the A series still has full manual, but they still do chew through AA batteries in a hurry.
It's ridiculous, I have to carry a couple Costco AA batteries in my pocket. Maybe 50 shots with flash and the batteries are spent. Otherwise, I have quite the boner for this little camera. Seems to work great!

One day back at my old newspaper, the staff camera (Rebel XTi) died suddenly, so I shot everything with the lil' A510, and no one noticed. Looked great in print!

I don't doubt the G10 is good, but I'm not going to upgrade from the powershot until I crash and ruin it. (Which will probably be the next ride, now that I've typed that)
 

blue

boob hater
Jan 24, 2004
10,160
2
california
There is a few kicking around, but they usually aren't great for one reason or another. G10 is a great camera with all manual controls, but is bulky and heavy. I am not 100% sure if the A series still has full manual, but they still do chew through AA batteries in a hurry.
Yeah - My A620 ate batteries for breakfast.

I'd really like a small pocket-sized cam with full manual controls. I don't know why it needs to be so big (like the G and A series).
 

Transcend

My Nuts Are Flat
Apr 18, 2002
18,040
3
Towing the party line.
Yeah - My A620 ate batteries for breakfast.

I'd really like a small pocket-sized cam with full manual controls. I don't know why it needs to be so big (like the G and A series).
It's mostly because they need actual dials or buttons for the controls. An all manual camera controlled by menus would be so awkward it'd be useless.

It's bad enough that on my mk2, with about a dozen buttons, I have to hold 2 buttons at once and turn one of 2 wheels to change anything. My 850IS P&S has quasi manual controls, you can change stuff like ISO, Shutter speed etc in the menus, but they are horrendous to use, so I never do.
 

bikenweed

Turbo Monkey
Oct 21, 2004
2,432
0
Los Osos
It's mostly because they need actual dials or buttons for the controls. An all manual camera controlled by menus would be so awkward it'd be useless.

It's bad enough that on my mk2, with about a dozen buttons, I have to hold 2 buttons at once and turn one of 2 wheels to change anything. My 850IS P&S has quasi manual controls, you can change stuff like ISO, Shutter speed etc in the menus, but they are horrendous to use, so I never do.
There are cameras with shutter speed/aperature hidden in the menus? wtf?

So is demand for manual functions really that low?

The wheels on the 20D/5D are really nice, but hitting the "set" button to toggle between shutter speed/aperature and then left or right arrows on the a510 isn't bad at all. It is a bit more than the dial/wheel controls, but it works really well.

What does suck is that when it's sitting in the pocket with the LCD screen against your leg, it'll soak in sweat and stop working until it can dry out a bit.
 

pinkshirtphotos

site moron
Jul 5, 2006
4,836
543
Vernon, NJ
back to the land of point and shoots... my mom is looking for a p+s that has a viewfinder... and not one of the silly lcd screens. why are the cameras that have the optical view finder so expensive?
 
Nov 3, 2003
119
0
Virginia
Since you guys are on the subject of P&S to tote along on a ride...any recommendations on a Canon.
I want something that will take a decent pic without being to heavy to pack. Carrying the Rebel is just going to work...I currently have a Sony DSC-W1 Cybershot.
Time for a new one!!!
 

Transcend

My Nuts Are Flat
Apr 18, 2002
18,040
3
Towing the party line.
I love my 850 IS. It has an optical viewfinder.

Basically canon has 2 lines of point and shoots, inside the Elph line. There are cameras like the SD 1000, cheap, great photos, but pretty crappy build. PSP, the SD1000 is dirt cheap right now pretty much everywhere, and has an optical viewfinder. 3 of my family members have them and love them. They start around $150 at best buy I think?

Then there is the models like the 850IS that I picked up, usually they feature IS, a bigger screen, an optical viewfinder and are an all metal build.

Much heavier duty than the more budget oriented ones. They usually cost about $100 more or so, but in my experience are definitely worth it.
 

wiscodh

Monkey
Jun 21, 2007
833
121
303
thanks for the post and also :shakefist: you beacuse i have been on the fence about getting a dslr and this is only making it worse, needs before wants, needs before wants...... anyone need a 56 burton fish? :P
 

WhoRyder

Turbo Monkey
Nov 28, 2007
1,834
0
NYC
Trans...

What's your take on the 5D MKII?

Aside it from shooting video, the Digic 4 FF Sensor is supposed to be the SH!T... i'm picking one up on Jan/Feb., was just curious on your take on it....

What are you shooting with now EOS 1D MKIII?
 
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yesimaddicted

Monkey
Apr 28, 2007
824
0
centeral Euroland via CA
dude, sweet write up for real. i read it and soak it in. i defantly going work on panning.
so far.


im really starting to enjoy photography now, just won a competition recently for highschoolers in the bay area, super stoked about that.
 

blue

boob hater
Jan 24, 2004
10,160
2
california
I think a used G9 (about $300) is about as close as you will get, although you may get lucky? Lumix, Leica and Canon all offer RAW shooting, but only on the extreme high end models. It's a weird category
With the A6xx line there's a firmware hack out there that allows you to shoot RAW.
 

WhoRyder

Turbo Monkey
Nov 28, 2007
1,834
0
NYC
Tran. i sent u a PM but i answered my own question.

I will not purchase a Full Frame sensor body, until i get much much better shooting.

instead, i'm on the fence between 2 lenses....

I can pick up the
Canon 70-200 f/2.8 for over 1K

Or

Sigma 70-200 f/2.8 for under 800.00 bucks...

This is for shooting sports, going to the zoo with the wife and kids (no bird watching)
 

Transcend

My Nuts Are Flat
Apr 18, 2002
18,040
3
Towing the party line.
Yo, major headache this AM and was out of commission.

The 5dmk2 looks like a fantastic camera, but not really action sports oriented. The 5d AF was pretty slow and borderline terrible in low light for sports. If the 5dmk2 improves on this then I'll pick one up. Until then, nothing can touch the AF of a 1d body. In fact, the mk2s I use are apparently still faster and more accurate than the Mk3?

Also, I won't ever touch a non Canon lens. I am sure there are some standout lenses (like the 70-200 mentioned), but there are too many absolutely abysmal ones to take the chance for me. As a CPS member, if I ever have any sort of problem, I drive 15 minutes to canon, and leave it for repair and get a loaner.
 
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WhoRyder

Turbo Monkey
Nov 28, 2007
1,834
0
NYC
thanks, thanks... drink some water and take a nap (if you can) for the head ache... thanks for all the info... so i'll stick with canon, i can buy a used 70-200 for 900 bucks or so... without IS though... they're selling them used @ bandh for 925.00

thanks again!
 

FastTimes

Monkey
Jul 2, 2002
155
1
Toronto
Also, I won't ever touch a non Canon lens. I am sure there are some standout lenses (like the 70-200 mentioned), but there are too many absolutely abysmal ones to take the chance for me. As a CPS member, if I ever have any sort of problem, I drive 15 minutes to canon, and leave it for repair and get a loaner.
Ditto for Nikon glass. I don't, nor will I ever own non-Nikon glass. I'm sure it's fine, and I am not trying to be a snob, I just like it and I get good results with it. You can get by with very few lenses if they are the right ones. I would rather have good glass then every lens combo out there. I can go out with my 14-24, 24-70 and 70-200. That covers the focal lengths I like to work with. Nikon gives me anything else if I need it.
 

scag

Monkey
Nov 19, 2004
104
0
I kinda disagree with the need for a light meter....I think if someone invests time in learning about the camera's different built in metering modes and understands how to read their histogram, they really dont need one, especially in a non studio setting. Using your on camera meters correctly and reading the histogram should get you close enough ...the rest can be fixed in post.....rigth???
 

Transcend

My Nuts Are Flat
Apr 18, 2002
18,040
3
Towing the party line.
I kinda disagree with the need for a light meter....I think if someone invests time in learning about the camera's different built in metering modes and understands how to read their histogram, they really dont need one, especially in a non studio setting. Using your on camera meters correctly and reading the histogram should get you close enough ...the rest can be fixed in post.....rigth???
A histogram can be wildly inaccurate in many situations. Metering on a camera is reflective, and as such, can also be wildly inaccurate as explained in the articles. The histogram will reflect these.

Try shooting with 2 remote flashes in the woods, exposing for fill and ambient, while waiting for a rider, without a meter. Try and get it correct for the first or even second rider through.

You cannot correct light ratios in post, no.

Relying on post processing to fix things is a cop out and takes MUCH more time. I shoot say, 2000 photos at an event. I need to have selects to clients within 24 hours, sometimes less for press releases (within 1 hour). I don't really have time to post process dozens of photos in an hour, it's simply not possible.

I avoid that by getting it right the first time.
 

dump

Turbo Monkey
Oct 12, 2001
8,212
4,462
Agree with fraser. If you're doing any kind of fancy flash work, a light meter is a must.

Fraser, in changing lighting conditions throughout the day, I imagine it's a lot of fun running to adjust the remote flashes.
 

Transcend

My Nuts Are Flat
Apr 18, 2002
18,040
3
Towing the party line.
Agree with fraser. If you're doing any kind of fancy flash work, a light meter is a must.

Fraser, in changing lighting conditions throughout the day, I imagine it's a lot of fun running to adjust the remote flashes.
Elinchrom rangers and their new wireless system allow you to change it from the camera. :)

With PWs and flashes, I get in shape pretty quick. I am also quite adept at running up muddy hillsides now.
 

WODIE

Monkey
Jul 14, 2007
228
0
Inman/Clemson, SC
My other post got lost in the thread but i still need an answer so here is my question again..

What would you suggest if you're taking pictures of something like dirt jumps where the run in is not visible and there is no option to pan. Do you manual focus? Put it on auto focus and a faster shutter speed so that you get it in time? I've tried both and got blurry pictures 65% of the time.

I need your advice badly, thanks in advance. Btw i'm getting a flash for Chrimah after the suggestions in this thread. Should really help in the woods. (shooting with a Canon XTi if this helps any, kit lens)
 

Transcend

My Nuts Are Flat
Apr 18, 2002
18,040
3
Towing the party line.
Why can you not pan? I you are shooting head on you will just need a faster shutter speed and pre focus where you want the rider to be. Otherwise you can pan away.

Flashes will help freeze the rider in the air.
 

davet

Monkey
Jun 24, 2004
551
3
Because the jumps are big and inbetween trees. As in the trees off to the side and brush coming off would block any ability to pan in, especially deeper into the jump line where there are also other jumps blocking a straight on view.
sometimes it's just not a good spot to shoot, you have to find another place
 

Transcend

My Nuts Are Flat
Apr 18, 2002
18,040
3
Towing the party line.
Because the jumps are big and inbetween trees. As in the trees off to the side and brush coming off would block any ability to pan in, especially deeper into the jump line where there are also other jumps blocking a straight on view.
You can always find someway to do it dude, look harder. If you get stumped, look for another spot. Don't forget the ability to move up (ladder, trees, other jumps etc) or down (between the lips).
 

WhoRyder

Turbo Monkey
Nov 28, 2007
1,834
0
NYC
I use the Alien Bee's CyberSyncs for my remote flash triggers, they are okay, not the best thing in the world but works.

I also have the 580EX and the 430EX:

i connect the 580 to the CyberSync's receiver and make the 430 a SLAVE....

My problem is how much power do i set the flash too (alot of my images have come over exposed because i set it up with too much power)

I ordered the Alien Bees DigiBee
For Digital Photographers, we offer a great two-light setup with everything you need for studio or location work. The DIGIBEE includes two of our lower output B400 units with two 10-foot Light Stands. The two included umbrellas offer multiple qualities of light for a wide range of subjects.

1 B800
1 B800
2 CB1 Single Light Carrying Bag
2 LS3050 10-foot General Purpose Light Stands
1 U48TWB 48-inch Translucent White "Shoot-Thru" Umbrella
1 U48SW 48-inch Silver/White Umbrella

Of course i won't be using the umbrellas for shoots... lol

And i also ordered me some portable power. Should be fun...
 
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WhoRyder

Turbo Monkey
Nov 28, 2007
1,834
0
NYC
Yo, Trans....

How often do you use remote flash?

did yo use remote flash for this Image? (yes i can see the shador of the bars on Sam's body, a flash was used (580EX II was used?)

Camera Make: Canon
Camera Model: Canon EOS-1D Mark II
Image Date: 2008:05:23 10:08:22
Flash Used: No
Focal Length: 36.0mm
CCD Width: NaNmm
Exposure Time: 0.0050 s (1/200)
Aperture: f/5.6
ISO equiv: 100
White Balance: Auto
Exposure: Manual
Exposure Mode: Manual
 
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djjohnr

Turbo Monkey
Apr 21, 2002
3,011
1,704
Northern California
Because the jumps are big and inbetween trees. As in the trees off to the side and brush coming off would block any ability to pan in, especially deeper into the jump line where there are also other jumps blocking a straight on view.
If you absolutely can't find a better angle - manual prefocus. Use the lip of the landing as your focal point and stop down enough to expand your focus range a bit.