Whatat shock will replace this 5th element. Or mod the 5th?

The mod converts the shock from position sensitive damping (cv/t valve) to speed sensitive damping (shim stack). All modern DH shocks use speed sensitive damping. Basically, the cv/t valve (fancy term for mini air piston that blocks your valving ports) is removed and a shim stack is installed in its place.

Is cost an issue? If so, go the modding route. If you're mechanically capable the mod can be done for under $100. Craig at avalanche will do it for $180, but he does more than the shim stack swap - polishes the main shaft, new seals all around, new bottom out bumper, and replaces the compression adjusters.

If cost isn't an issue, get a cane creek double barrel if you wanna go all out. One of if not the best shock money can buy at the moment. Marzocchi Roco's are also a good option, and at a better price point.

A few things to keep in mind: doing the 5th mod will give you a custom tuned shock. Buying a new shock will not, but you could send it to Push / Hippie Tech / TFTuned / Mojo and have it custom tuned for you, but that's at least another $100 on top of the cost of a new shock. On the flip side, spare/replacement parts for the 5th are starting to dwindle as the shock ages so to speak. Some people are just throwing them out when they bust and replace them. Luckily, Manitou swingers are almost completely identical (manitou licensed the technology from progressive when they decided to pull out from the mtb market), so you can use those for parts too. There aren't a plethora of them readily available, but they aren't super hard to come by either.

Honestly, go with the Avalanche mod. For the money put out you will get soooo much more in return!

I have owned both a modded 5th and a DHX5. THe mod for the 5th was well worth the $. It felt like a completely new shock, and very close to the DHX5. The difference is that it took a lot less time to get the DHX to feel really good. However, I also rode the 5th for over a year in its unmodified form, which accounts for most of that time. I'd say get it modified.

if you are not too bothered about all the new coolest stuff to have, i would just play round with the 5th as it is. the 5th as it is had loads of potential, the best mod you can do is change the main piston o ring to a softer compound one.

get a buna or viton 112 oring. that along with some fresh oil and a little bit of tlc, is going to make a world of difference.

if you want anymore info on 5ths just give me a shout.

TheBrokenBike.com will rebuild and put shim in for the Progressive 5th Element. I am having my done right now. Will let you know how it turn out.

i'll just reply here as it might be useful to other people who are interested.

check out this thread:
http://www.ridemonkey.com/forums/showthread.php?t=184201

MttyTee used to work at 5th, and answers a lot of my stupid question on that thread. its a lot to read, but worth it.

but here is a quick fact sheet for good measure:
the o ring you can get form any bearing and oil seal store. 'buna' and 'viton' are the types of o ring material. 112 is part number. stock oil is 5wt oil. stock ifp depth at bottom out is 25.75mm.

no need to polish the shaft really as its a really good finish as it is. the oring will make a world of difference, trust me. the stock o ring is rock hard, the stiction you get from that single part alone is mad!

Send it to Avy. You will not believe the difference.

What frame is this on? Can make a big diff. Just got a sunday with a vivid to upgrade a 7.7 with a 5th element. The rear end not only feels sunday good but is out of this world and I have yet to put a tune into the shock yet. Just trying to get the feel for it. Depending on the frame a 5.0dhx may be the way you want to go its all about geometry.

unless there is something wrong with yours, there is no need for a rebuild kit.

you dont really need the dimensions of the o ring to buy it. that number would do, its like the o rings equivalent of bearing numbers.

but since i am such a nice guy, here are the dimensions
Width
3/32"
Actual Width
.103"
Inside Diameter
1/2"
Actual Inside Diameter
.487"
Outside Diameter
11/16"
Actual Outside Diameter
.693"


edit, wait. are you talking about the avy rebuild kit? well, look at it this way: changing the o ring on your 5th and fresh oil will cost you fak all, and you will learn something about your shock. if you dont like it, then send it off to get tuned. everyone wins!

Sandwich said:

for jonkranked...sorry, I saw it at home depot and I had to.

Click to expand...

hahaha that's awesome!

check your sag first, depending on what riding you are doing. you will want between 25-33% sag. if its your first time riding a full sus, you are bound to find it way to soft, especially with a frame with so much travel.

if that is the case, i would say just riding your bike and get used to it first before you go opening up your rear shock.

mroneeyedboh said:

ok. i think its good. this is my frst time dealing with a full suspenson bike. so i dont know much but im reading when i can. Thanks dhkid for the specs. Btw the shock feels soft. the kid i bought the bike from is around my weight ( hes 200 im 180 ) so I asuumd the spring was good to go for me. Ill get specs on the spring later. How come the shock feels so soft? Thats wh i thouht it needed a rebuild. but dont see any oil leaking.

so should i shim or not. I think dhkid said new oring and oil and roll with that if its no good send it out.

mobil 1 5w30 good?

Click to expand...

You don't wanna use motor oil. You want to use suspension fluid (which is different from fork oil). Any well stocked motocross shop will have it. You'll want a 5W suspension fluid.

neither fork oil nor suspension fluid can be susbtituted with motor oil (at least as far as I'm aware. I'm not gonna try it with a $1000+ fork or a several hundred dollar shock).

And yes, fork oil and suspension fluid are different and not interchangeable (at least as far as I'm aware).

i honestly have no idea about the oil man, i would rather stick to oil that is meant for damping. the oil you are referring to might be the right viscosity ect but might be more suited for lubrication then being forced through pistons and shims.

fork oil and suspension fluid as they are called are normally pretty similar, doubt it would do any damage to your suspension. the main difference is that suspension fluid is normally a higher spec oil. its properties (mainly viscosity) do not degrade as much with changes in temperature.

the only one that will fak up your suspension is some moto x ones which have additives that make the seals swell up.


i would say just ride your bike for a while man, since its your first time being on a full suspension bike.

You can use shock oil in a fork just fine.

You can SOMETIMES use ATF in forks (it's about a 10w depending on who you ask). It works alright in larger displacement open bath forks, but it's not the most ideal thing in the world.

I use 15w-20w motor oil occasionally for stanchion and seal lubricant, not for damper oil.

if you want to get really geeky with oil weights:
http://www.pvdwiki.com/index.php?title=Suspension_Fluid

i am not sure if he comes on over here much anymore.

i used silkolene 5wt rsf, its really good stuff, didn't have any problems with it. i also played around with a 50:50 mix of 2.5 and 5wt with good results.

dont worry about it, the 5th still works well with a range of oils.