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Help to boxxer wc 2010

HolyDiver07

Chimp
Jun 5, 2007
5
0
I got the new boxxer fork 2 weeks ago and i drow nice i used it a dal and it worked when i was done riding but when i was gonner use it 5 days later i turned the ending stroke knob 3 cliks and after that the rebound did not wok the problem is that when i compress the fork it is about 2 sek. to get full expande that means that its not active at all,
i can just keep turning the ending stroke knob for more than 10 min, and it never endes i heard that it has about 19 cliks bu i can turn it 200 cliks.
Is something come loose or??
Hope someone can help
The fork is a Boxxer wc 2010
Cheers Daniel
 

General Lee

Turbo Monkey
Oct 16, 2003
2,860
0
The 802
the rebound adjuster is attatched to a long, very thin aluminum shaft that is threaded onto a spring that preloads the shims on the rebound valve. the shaft has 4 free-bleedholes drilled into it so oil can flow past the needle for the lsr circuit. if you turned the knob too far you will run out of threads and run the risk of snapping the shaft in half at the free-bleed holes (it is very thin). the result will be a rebound knob that spins forever in both directions and makes no adjustment.

take the lowers off, remove the c-clip from the bottom of the damper leg and take out the rebound assembly. look up towards the top where the piston is, find the ports for lsr and see if the shaft that passes through it is broken in half.

I've seen it before
 

HolyDiver07

Chimp
Jun 5, 2007
5
0
the one thats just keep turning is the red one not the gray one and isent it the gray one that has a thin alushaft on it?
 

General Lee

Turbo Monkey
Oct 16, 2003
2,860
0
The 802
the one thats just keep turning is the red one not the gray one and isent it the gray one that has a thin alushaft on it?
no. the grey knob ajusts the needle inside the shaft of the red adjuster knob. the shaft has 4 opposing holes drilled at the top so oil can flow through it and past the lsr needle (grey knob). above the holes the shaft threads into a spring loaded piston. turning the adjuster threads the piston up and down in relation to pre-load spring that sits on top of the shims. thread it too tight (ie turn the knob too far with too much force) and it will tighted down like any other bolt on your bike and the force needed to unthread it can causue the shaft to snap. if the red knob spins forever the shaft is likely broken in half. or the allen key on the adjuster itself broke but i would highly doubt it.

never turn adjustment knobs too far open or too far closed, and be gentle. that's pretty much the rule for any suspension component.
 
Last edited:

General Lee

Turbo Monkey
Oct 16, 2003
2,860
0
The 802
see if this helps. the sram illustration shows where i'm guessing your damper snapped. the second, crappy ms paint picture is what it looks like up close. the blue is the hsr shaft that is inside the damper shaft, the orange is the lsr needle inside the hsr shaft. the blue shaft (red in real life) and the needle spin when you turn the red knob. the needle moved up and down in the free-bleed holes when you turn the grey knob. the blue part continues past the free bleed holes and out the top of the piston. the 2 red x's are where you broke it, and the green piece is the spring preload that no longer moves because the shaft is broken below it and just spins forever.

i would suggest removing the tiny c-clip from the external adjusters and take them off. then remove the lower legs same as any other boxxer. remove the large c-clip from the bottom of stanchion containing the rebound damper, pull it out and have a look. turn the adjusters with an allen key and see what does and doesn't move.
 
Last edited:
Oct 8, 2003
202
0
Lee,
Any ideas as to why my beginning stroke rebound is super slow? I have 24 clicks so that shaft isn't broken but it is super slow, 1 click feels no different than 24. I was going to wait till the US Open to get it looked at but I feel like it would be easy enough to take apart if I knew what it could be.
 

HolyDiver07

Chimp
Jun 5, 2007
5
0
But how do i take it apart?
i losen the top of the right leg take the high /low speed chamber out ond the oile,can i just than pull the staintion out and the rebuond chamber will be in the bottom of it?
 
Oct 8, 2003
202
0
But how do i take it apart?
i losen the top of the right leg take the high /low speed chamber out ond the oile,can i just than pull the staintion out and the rebuond chamber will be in the bottom of it?
If you slide the fork out of the crowns and remove the rebound knobs of the bottom.( take the c clip off(pain in the ass) or use a 24mm flat wrench). Then tap the shaft into the lowers with a crank bolt. You will be able to pull the entire right leg out. At the bottom of the leg there is a retainer clip, you remove that and then the rebound assembly will come out.
 

Yeti

Monkey
May 17, 2005
877
0
yeti cave@the beach
But how do i take it apart?
i losen the top of the right leg take the high /low speed chamber out ond the oile,can i just than pull the staintion out and the rebuond chamber will be in the bottom of it?
Here is a small guide I posted about how to open the fork to lube it...essentially you have to do the same
1- prepare the fork to work on it
2-with something sharp and thin or a c-clip remover (sorry don't know the exact name of it in english) remove the clip that holds the beginning-rebound knob in place...this is a bit of a pain. then remove both knobs.
3- you will see the end of the rebound adjuster assembly. it has 2 flat sides.with an adjustable wrench (or a 22mm?) remove it.
4-take a crank bolt and thread it in halfway, instead of the rebound adjuster assembly. this is just like with the previous boxxer...just tap the bolt so the damper cartridge becomes loose from the lowers.
5- remove the bolt on the left leg halfway and tap it...just like the previous boxxer.
6- do ur greasing magic like the previous boxxer
7- put the lowers back in...take your crank bolt and try to carefully thread into the damper cartridge. this is quite difficult to do with the adjuster assembly so I found it easir to do with the crank bolt....just tighten it in so the cartridge gets "locked" again in the lowers
8- now it's sort of fixed there and you can thread in the rebound adjuster assembly.
9- the left leg is the same as the previous boxxer
10- put on the rebound knobs and don't forget the c-clip to hold the beginning-rebound knob