I have a Trek 4500 with I think its called an "e-style" front derailluer, which mounts up around the bottom bracket. I read somewhere that most dont use this style anymore unless there is no other mounting option. The frame does not seem like it is anything out of the ordinary its a straight downtube? can I just use a standard FD that mounts the the downtube?
Trek 4500 front derailleur
- Thread starter mabaty
- Start date
Are you sure about that?
E-types, which are notorious pains to adjust, rarely come on cheaper bikes, much less hardtails with normal seat tubes. They are designed for bikes without a normal seat tube.
I have noticed some cheaper front derailleurs with odd looking chain guards to prevent the chain from falling between the crankset and the BB. It might look like an E-type but actually clamps around the seat tube like a normal derailleur.
What year of bike do you have? And could you put a picture up of your front derailleur?
Well, you should be able to replace an E-type with any clamp-style derailleur. I am really shocked that Trek would spec an E-type on a low-end hardtail.
You need to remove the crankset and the BB to take it off, and you probably should replace the BB with a shorter spindle.
I doubt your bike is worth the trouble, though.
You need to remove the crankset and the BB to take it off, and you probably should replace the BB with a shorter spindle.
I doubt your bike is worth the trouble, though.
Ignore him, your bike will get you from place to place just fine. You should be able to mount a regular derailleur to the seat tube. Front der's are really tricky to set up, you might be better off going to the local bike shop to get this replaced.
ouch... kind of an elitist comment there....
Old bikes, cheap bikes, top end bikes.. they will all get you where you need to go.
I agree with Woody... go to your LBS and have them change it out for you. Then enjoy your bike and ride the piss outta it.
OK,
2005 Trek 4500 = $200
New Acera Front Derailleur = $20
New BB = $25
Installation = $40
$85 spent on an upgrade for a $200 bike, to fix a problem which doesn't exist? Because the guy read that E-types are unpopular?
Did you even read this thread?
2009 Trek 4500 MSRP: $689
Yes prices change, inflation has occurried, blah blah blah
...but making the bike shift correctly is worth a little cash.
Your local bike shop can make a better estimation of price for you, and whether or not your bike is worth the extra investment.
Yes prices change, inflation has occurried, blah blah blah
...but making the bike shift correctly is worth a little cash.
Your local bike shop can make a better estimation of price for you, and whether or not your bike is worth the extra investment.
Did you not read this thread either?
There is nothing wrong with E-type, except they are a huge pain in the ass to adjust.
I have one on my VP-Free, and my Enduro has a frame mount so you don't need to use the BB bracket, which is my preferred method to mount a front derailleur now.
this is actually a productive comment about your bike
what size is the frame, i work at a shop and sometimes i have seen e-types spec'd on bikes that are smaller sizes because it allows the dr to get far enough inboard to get to the small ring. if you go with a clamp on style dr there is a chance that the part behind will contact your seat tube and you won't be able to get to your small ring. i come from the school of "if it ain't broke don't fix it." unless it is wearing out leave it be. it is a huge pain in the ass to pull a bb to take off the dr if you don't have the tools, take it to a shop if you are going to do it. a competent mechanic can switch a dr like that in under a half hour. easily under that time.
speaking of that specialized mount. it is a huge pain in the ass to adjust. i work at a shop that sells em and building specialized normally means pulling the crank if the assembler in taiwan didn't set it up correctly. the nice thing is it is like a ronco, set it and forget it. once you dial in the height you are good to go.
what size is the frame, i work at a shop and sometimes i have seen e-types spec'd on bikes that are smaller sizes because it allows the dr to get far enough inboard to get to the small ring. if you go with a clamp on style dr there is a chance that the part behind will contact your seat tube and you won't be able to get to your small ring. i come from the school of "if it ain't broke don't fix it." unless it is wearing out leave it be. it is a huge pain in the ass to pull a bb to take off the dr if you don't have the tools, take it to a shop if you are going to do it. a competent mechanic can switch a dr like that in under a half hour. easily under that time.
speaking of that specialized mount. it is a huge pain in the ass to adjust. i work at a shop that sells em and building specialized normally means pulling the crank if the assembler in taiwan didn't set it up correctly. the nice thing is it is like a ronco, set it and forget it. once you dial in the height you are good to go.
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