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11T Rear Cog for Profile Hubs

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Farkel

Chimp
Apr 23, 2009
38
0
Union City, California
Hi,

Can someone point me in the right direction on where to buy a good quality 11T rear cog that will fit on a profile hub

I was reading something about how the standard driver is compatible with 12t-18t cogs ? Does that mean I have to get a new driver to fit a 11T?

thanks
 
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quickneonrt

quickneonrt

Turbo Monkey
Apr 8, 2003
1,611
0
Staten Island NY
You need a Profile 11t driver to replace the cassette. You can get it from Profile or I think Dan's Comp is less expensive. Depending how old your hub is you may need an extra prawl and spring. I have a high flange rear hub when I pulled the cassette driver it had a older 3 prawl design the newer cassette bodies and drivers are a 4 prawl design. I also replaced the alum. Center axle and 3/8ths studs with a solid 14mm axle. Only mistake I made was not getting the 14mm hollow axle
 
quickneonrt

quickneonrt

Turbo Monkey
Apr 8, 2003
1,611
0
Staten Island NY
Farkel said:
damn I figured the driver needed to be replaced... I wish my retarded ass had gone with the 11T in the beginning, now I have to shell out $70+ for that driver :(

this is the rear hub I recently got:
http://www.profileracing.com/profileracing/estore2/index.php5?productid=158

so hopefully it's the 4 prawl design. How hard is it to take out the old driver and put in a new one anyway?
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I am not sure how to take apart the mtb hub. Should not be hard. Call Profile they will help you out. It should be a 4 prawl if it is a recent hub, the 3 prawl is i think from 2yrs ago. Bad part is I think you have to get the mtb driver from Profile, the ones Dan's sells are for the bmx hubs. The bmx hubs are real easy to service so the mtb should not be bad.
 
F

Farkel

Chimp
Apr 23, 2009
38
0
Union City, California
Thanks for the help. I have a 26" and my current gearing is 25x12... I feel like 25x11 would get me around quicker

dunno I have to think about this before I drop the money for the driver
 
quickneonrt

quickneonrt

Turbo Monkey
Apr 8, 2003
1,611
0
Staten Island NY
Farkel said:
Thanks for the help. I have a 26" and my current gearing is 25x12... I feel like 25x11 would get me around quicker

dunno I have to think about this before I drop the money for the driver
Click to expand...
have you tried 26x12? Basically same as going 25x11 but a front chain ring is cheaper and easier to change. Just my opinion.
 
quickneonrt

quickneonrt

Turbo Monkey
Apr 8, 2003
1,611
0
Staten Island NY
grom-dom said:
my friedn has an 11t cog for his profile. not sure how or wher ehe got it, but it's old.
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I have not found a cog that small for any free body. I tried Chris King, Surly, Odessey, Gusset. The smallest reasonably priced is the Gusset Double Six 12t, then the jump in price to C.K. that makes a 12t but its over $40
 
sittingduck

sittingduck

Turbo Monkey
Jun 22, 2007
1,958
2
Oregon
27/12 = 2.25
25/11 = 2.272

11T driver = $70
27T chainring = $30

You'll want to take chain length into consideration too...
 
F

Farkel

Chimp
Apr 23, 2009
38
0
Union City, California
I'm not exactly sure how it happened but after installing the crankset (deity vendetta) and spacing it, it's dead on with my old rear wheel. That rear wheel didn't have any spacers or anything unusual so it should've been pretty standard spacing, not sure why my front sprocket is all of the sudden so close to the frame (blk mrkt mob) after installing the crankset.

either way I'm happy with how the front is right now, I like it closer to the frame... but now I'm worried when my profile rear hub comes in, it might not match up? Do they have profile spacers to go on the rear hub? If I get a 11T driver it'll be one-piece, so I'm not sure how you'd even go about spacing that
 
sittingduck

sittingduck

Turbo Monkey
Jun 22, 2007
1,958
2
Oregon
You won't be able to adjust the chainline much at the hub with a one-piece driver.
You'd be far better off just getting a 27 for the front, and adding a spacer so it doesn't hit the frame. It won't take much at all.
 
quickneonrt

quickneonrt

Turbo Monkey
Apr 8, 2003
1,611
0
Staten Island NY
sittingduck said:
You won't be able to adjust the chainline much at the hub with a one-piece driver.
You'd be far better off just getting a 27 for the front, and adding a spacer so it doesn't hit the frame. It won't take much at all.
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Absolutely true. The Vendettas should fit fine on that frame with bigger chainrings up front, just space it out to the drive side a little more. it should not throw the chainline off if the front chainring just clears the frame
 
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F

Farkel

Chimp
Apr 23, 2009
38
0
Union City, California
If I do it that way, and space out the Drive side to fit the bigger front sprocket, wouldn't I also have to space out the rear then?

I'm in a pretty stuck situation because I just bought a new 25T sprocket too :/ I'll probably just stay 25x12... whatever

but yeah after thinking about it you guys are right, it's not worth it to get a 11t driver either way
 
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quickneonrt

quickneonrt

Turbo Monkey
Apr 8, 2003
1,611
0
Staten Island NY
Farkel said:
If I do it that way, and space out the Drive side to fit the bigger front sprocket, wouldn't I also have to space out the rear then?

I'm in a pretty stuck situation because I just bought a new 25T sprocket too :/ I'll probably just stay 25x12... whatever

but yeah after thinking about it you guys are right, it's not worth it to get a 11t driver either way
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the way you describe it, it sounds like your chainline might be off. you should be able to come out up front a little more at least to give you clearance for a 27 or 28t and not throw your chainline off. Even if it is off a little bit as long as you are not dropping chains you should be fine.
 
F

Farkel

Chimp
Apr 23, 2009
38
0
Union City, California
So I got my wheels in today and I was looking at it, and now I have an even more serious problem.

The rear cog's spacing is completely off... it's too far in. I can't space the cog out either because there's not enough threads... on top of that, I can't push in my front sprocket because it's as far in as it will go already.

It looks like I have almost no options... god dammit
 
F

Farkel

Chimp
Apr 23, 2009
38
0
Union City, California
$50 later and trips to 2 different bike shops solved the problem, ended up being my deity crankset wasn't manufactured 100% so the drive side arm had to be filed and a washer added. The reason being, before it wasn't flat so the sprocket was all wobbly, which made the chainline look way off.

after getting the sprocket to spin true, the chainline is dialed... but the weird thing is, somehow with my deity crankset and rear hub setup, I coincidentally cannot run anything bigger than a 25T front sprocket. Everything is already as close to the frame as it can be, and the rear cog can't go out any further. Strange that it's like this, but whatever.

Hope no one else encounters a similar dilemma, it wasn't the funnest to get fixed
 
quickneonrt

quickneonrt

Turbo Monkey
Apr 8, 2003
1,611
0
Staten Island NY
I have a Mob with Diety cranks and i don't have a problem. Then again I use a 9spd hub so I can space the rear cog where ever I need it. Easier then being stuck ss hub and having to work with that.
 
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