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point one ltd ti stem??

quickneonrt

quickneonrt

Turbo Monkey
Apr 8, 2003
1,611
0
Staten Island NY
ok so my Point One Ltd Ed Ti came today it is beautiful and amazingly light. I have a dilema I bought it for my dh bike, 09 demo 7 travel reducer removed and 08 66 R3. It is so light do I trust it for DH or put it on my do all Transition Double? I usually run a RF D2 stem but switched to a Thompson 4X on my Demo and I was affraid that was too light but it is awsome and proved me wrong.
this Point One is almost too nice to put on a bike but seriously can it be trusted for dh/fr?
 
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climbingbubba

Monkey
May 24, 2007
354
0
im sure it will be fine... How many pictures of broken stems have you seen? i would guess your bars would break first.

i have been beating the crap out of my thomson 4x stem for many years. stuff like wheels, bars, even forks are more likely to be the first to break
 
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Ho_La

Chimp
Sep 27, 2009
4
0
SF Bay Area
I've been rocking the Split Second DM Limited Edition for almost a year now. It has seen northstar, whistler and the local Santa Cruz trails. It is holding up fine and has performed great. I haven't had any problems with it.
 
Sverre

Sverre

Monkey
Aug 26, 2004
400
0
Norwaii
Ho_La said:
I've been rocking the Split Second DM Limited Edition for almost a year now. It has seen northstar, whistler and the local Santa Cruz trails. It is holding up fine and has performed great. I haven't had any problems with it.
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Same here. No problems after over a year in use. Got both the direct mount and the normal one. Great stems.
 
Sandwich

Sandwich

Pig my fish!
Staff member
May 23, 2002
21,077
5,995
borcester rhymes
I know people here will argue, but I REALLY don't think ti bolts are a good idea for anything mission-critical, like stems, axles, rotors, etc. that when broken can mean a year off the bike and a jaw the doesn't work right.

Save the light bolts for stuff that just won't matter, like pedal pins or derailleur bolts or chainguide retainers or whatever...6 grams in your stem won't make a nuance of difference.

Somebody post up that broken point one DM stem...
 
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Banshee Rider

Turbo Monkey
Jul 31, 2003
1,452
10
Sandwich said:
I know people here will argue, but I REALLY don't think ti bolts are a good idea for anything mission-critical, like stems, axles, rotors, etc. that when broken can mean a year off the bike and a jaw the doesn't work right.

Save the light bolts for stuff that just won't matter, like pedal pins or derailleur bolts or chainguide retainers or whatever...6 grams in your stem won't make a nuance of difference...
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I ran Ti hardware in my E13 stem for a short period, primarily because the company was a sponsor of the team I raced for. Needless to say I sheared all four bolt heads off in a (minor) crash practicing at the US open. I trusted them because I was under the impression the strength was the same, they were just lighter. That false trust landed the remaining bolts I had to be used for exactly what you mentioned, chainguides, seat collars, etc. I chalked it up as a learning experience. This post is mostly a response to yours, and is not meant to be read as an opinion on the Ti stem in question.
 
U

Urinal Mint

Monkey
Oct 10, 2003
193
0
Washington
So it's the regular 1-1/8" stem correct? Not the direct mount? If it is the 1-1/8" version, make sure there is absolutely no grease on your steer tube. You may even want to sand your steer tube and the inside of the stem clamping surface. The nickel plating can sometimes be too slick, making it impossible to clamp hard enough on your steertube. That's what happened with mine. I ended up sending it back to them to have the inside clamping surface bead blasted. That fixed the issue.
 
quickneonrt

quickneonrt

Turbo Monkey
Apr 8, 2003
1,611
0
Staten Island NY
yes it is the regular 1 1/8 stem. I believe it is sanded on the inside from them at least that's how it looks.

should I replace all the ti bolts or just the front plate ones?
 
Sandwich

Sandwich

Pig my fish!
Staff member
May 23, 2002
21,077
5,995
borcester rhymes
quickneonrt said:
yes it is the regular 1 1/8 stem. I believe it is sanded on the inside from them at least that's how it looks.

should I replace all the ti bolts or just the front plate ones?
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totally up to you what you replace. I bet that a lot of people ride them and are fine forever. I do know that many people with failures have them catastrophically, not just a bent stem or one cracked bolt.

You could do something like replace two with steel, in opposite corners, or just keep a good eye on them all. I'm a fat dude, so I would rather have the burly bolts and then not be concerned. I liked the e13 stem because it had serious steel bolts...but YMMV. Also, looking at the stem, I wouldn't necessarily be concerned with the rear bolts if the stem has a good purchase on the steerer...if that's the case, then any failure wouldn't be catastrophic but just really f.cking scary.
 
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yetirider1975

Chimp
May 27, 2009
36
0
same here. I own both the direct mount and standard version ALL with ti hardware, and now issues. About a year one the DM and 6 months on the standard. I would rock it! they make great stuff.

As for ti bolts, there are a few different grades available. If you get cheap ti, then you can run into some issues. But the ti po1nt uses is the higher grade. Just make sure to use grease to prevent galling, and if your still concerned use a washer under the bolt head, that usually increases the torque a bolt can take...
 
no skid marks

no skid marks

Monkey
Jan 15, 2006
2,511
29
ACT Australia
yetirider1975 said:
As for ti bolts, there are a few different grades available. If you get cheap ti, then you can run into some issues. But the ti po1nt uses is the higher grade. Just make sure to use grease to prevent galling, and if your still concerned use a washer under the bolt head, that usually increases the torque a bolt can take...
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;) Exactly.
 
Inclag

Inclag

Turbo Monkey
Sep 9, 2001
2,752
442
MA
Tried digging up some old posts of mine, but apparently they are now in RM heaven. As a general rule people should keep Ti bolts (of any grade not sure where people are getting this info from) away from shear/cyclic loads due to Titanium's notch sensitivity.

I get somewhat concerned when a) I see people using Ti bolts in these applications since it can lead to a pretty catastrophic failure and b) that there are companies out there that will include Ti bolts to be used in less than ideal situations.
 
ender

ender

Monkey
Mar 4, 2004
193
0
I had a split second 25.4mm stem with 29.5 wide funn full on bars and I was able to bend it by grabbing the bars and pulling up hard on one side while pushing down on the other. It made a horrible creaking noise when I did it too. Freaked me out so I bought a sunline stem with chromag bars and the creaking is gone.

I still have the bars and stem and I could make a quick video of what I'm talking about.
 
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yetirider1975

Chimp
May 27, 2009
36
0
Dwdrums00 said:
The Ti bolts on my LTD point one DM have been fine but the nickel coating causes my bars to slip.
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do you have polished or painted bars?
Both me and my buddy have the nickel DM's with no issues. We both have shot-penned bars though. maybe its the slicker bar surface too?
 
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yetirider1975

Chimp
May 27, 2009
36
0
quickneonrt said:
i am using Deity Dirty 30s black painted. Will that be a problem?
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I don't know, i was just thinking that the two smooth surfaces might be slick together. As long as the bolts are greased (even under the head) and the bars and stem are degrease are torqued down tight, you should be fine...
 
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