'10 Formula The One
- Thread starter ender
- Start date
I think I saw next years lever will come with contact point adjustment so maybe worth the wait. I have the older style ones and the work fine but the Saint are really nice too I love tons of breaking power.
I've just switched to the ones after 4 years on k24s, and I must say the extra power takes some getting used to. The oros had some of that spongy feel, that I really liked for some reason, whereas the ones are in my opinion a bit harder to control, I should however say I haven't had that many runs on them, but I'm sure that with a different bleed/fcs/a few more rides they'll be really great. The weight is absolutely ridiculous, though, the pair without adapters and rotors weighed in at a smidge over 400g ...
The 2011 contact adjustment is supposed to be retrofittable to the 2010 the one/r1 models. Anyhow, I believe the one MY11 should be coming out very soon, I've already seen some R1's on ebay.
The 2011 contact adjustment is supposed to be retrofittable to the 2010 the one/r1 models. Anyhow, I believe the one MY11 should be coming out very soon, I've already seen some R1's on ebay.
As far as I know the MY2011 will not come with those parts installed but those will be available as an upgarde kitI've just switched to the ones after 4 years on k24s, and I must say the extra power takes some getting used to. The oros had some of that spongy feel, that I really liked for some reason, whereas the ones are in my opinion a bit harder to control, I should however say I haven't had that many runs on them, but I'm sure that with a different bleed/fcs/a few more rides they'll be really great. The weight is absolutely ridiculous, though, the pair without adapters and rotors weighed in at a smidge over 400g ...
The 2011 contact adjustment is supposed to be retrofittable to the 2010 the one/r1 models. Anyhow, I believe the one MY11 should be coming out very soon, I've already seen some R1's on ebay.
how much power do they really have compared to the Saints?
im looking at the 2011 One's too
Really? I, and my buddy using the 2010 ones (vs 2010 saints) would disagree strongly on both counts. Granted, I'm 180 with gear and he's only 175, so were not clydes, but were both 100% convinced my saints have better modulation and the ones are more grabby, and that at max power they're pretty much indistinguishable.
really though, you can't fuggin go wrong with either of them (saints or the one), so buy a pair and ride your bike.
been riding '10 Ones since april at mammoth / northstar, continue to like them. since so many brake threads end up being about Saints vs The Ones, here are some gen'l comments:
- both have a lot of power (see bikeradar.com for measured results), more than pretty much everything else
- for a heavier rider like me (195 lbs w/o gear), modulation w/ the Ones is good
- actual weight savings (incl rotors) ends up being 170 g per pair vs Saints
- bar clamp hardware on The One is more of a pain in the ass -- alu torx bolt, in a size that's not on typical multitool
- pad changes are cheap on The Ones (only two pads per brake, with Formula pads around $30 and aftermarkets under $20); shimano parts widely available, but Formula parts are being carried in more and more shops lately
- both have a lot of power (see bikeradar.com for measured results), more than pretty much everything else
- for a heavier rider like me (195 lbs w/o gear), modulation w/ the Ones is good
- actual weight savings (incl rotors) ends up being 170 g per pair vs Saints
- bar clamp hardware on The One is more of a pain in the ass -- alu torx bolt, in a size that's not on typical multitool
- pad changes are cheap on The Ones (only two pads per brake, with Formula pads around $30 and aftermarkets under $20); shimano parts widely available, but Formula parts are being carried in more and more shops lately
Have they made them any easier to bleed?
I have some original The Ones on my bike, and I've not needed to bleed them a single time yet, apart from when I shortened the hoses. Always ran Hopes before which seemed to need constant bleeding!
which hopes? i ran moto 6's for 2 full seasons. never needed to bleed them once.
i have 3 days on 2010 the ones, and am really happy with them, but a big dude (215#)
C2s DH4s E4s M4s. Never had any 6-pots, extra pots just seemed like extra problems to me
Can't recall if I ever had any mono M4s or not; if not then separate caliper halves is the common thread through all of my Hopes, maybe the monos have no such issues.yeah the 2 peice caliper hopes were really bad. the mono's are really nice though.
but the formula one are better yet
but the formula one are better yet
yes. the previous generation of Formula brakes required you to strap an extra handlebar to the headtube of your bike so that you could position the M/C bleed port facing up. this added an extra 5 mins to the procedure..which was still pretty easy.
the new Ones/R1's have a bleed port facing upward already. I haven't had to bleed any of my 2010 formula brakes....all worked perfect out of the box...but I don't expect any issues.
these prototypes do show it installed, but it could still be a upgrade
http://dirt.mpora.com/news/formula-brake-prototype.html
how do you strap a extra handlebar on??
This is a prototype of a new, even stronger brake.
FCS on the one MY11 is that new gold bit between the hose and master cylinder in the picture on the previous page. It should be an easy upgrade.
some people like to build a bleed stand on a piece of plywood. i prefer to leave the brakeline / caliper on the bike, so i just take a strap or two and attach a spare handlebar so that it's pointing up vertically. something like this one works really well.
getting a good bleed on the older formula brakes, in my experience, is not any harder than with other typical brakes out there. uses standard fittings, so avid bleed kit is all you need.
you cant just rotate the lever up on the bars to get it vertical?
Like everyone's saying, a key to a good bleed with these is to have the MC bleed port at the highest point of the system. Of course this lets air get up into the tube but also when you remove the tube no oil can drip out of the brake. Then lay the bike on its side so the caliper bleed port is at the highest point before removing the syringe. When I first got these I was annoyed that the bleed ports don't lock closed before removing the tube (like a moto, car, Hayes, or Shimano) but if you have the port at the highest point it's not messy and no oil gets out.
I'm now running Formula on both my XC and DH bikes and love'em.
Edit: The MC bleed port on the R1/The One is at the very top without even having to rotate the levers.
I'm now running Formula on both my XC and DH bikes and love'em.
Edit: The MC bleed port on the R1/The One is at the very top without even having to rotate the levers.
I think I noted that I was referring to the older series (oro etc).