Great, thanks.
The EVIL Revolt Tech. and Tuning Archive
- Thread starter S.K.C.
- Start date
Rode my new frame today and I noticed something weird. It felt stiffer than last years, less pedalbob or actually none at all and more pop off the jumps. I was riding the same trails yesterday with the old frame and exactly the same setup, the only part that was changed was the frame.
Did they change anything in the linkage apart from beefing up stuff? It might just be because it's new and the other one has been ridden almost a year.
BTW, where can I get a black chain?
Did they change anything in the linkage apart from beefing up stuff? It might just be because it's new and the other one has been ridden almost a year.
BTW, where can I get a black chain?
The bushings changed slightly. Give them a few rides to fully seat in, they are stiffer out of the box.
-KT
So the RC4 cracked and I'm thinking about ordering a CCDB tomorrow. Does anyone have any experience with these? Like how spring rates compare to the RC4. I weigh 198lb (90kg)
And input on base settings would be nice as well.
And input on base settings would be nice as well.
PM sent
edit: just buy it, its worth every penny.
edit: just buy it, its worth every penny.
Last edited:
Just back from injury and finally time to put my frame back together, so I didn't notice that the dog-bone links I got from Evil HQ are different from one another until now. Scratching my head here, which one goes where, and how? Drive side, non-drive side?
the one with the bigger curve on the right goes on the non-drive side.Just back from injury and finally time to put my frame back together, so I didn't notice that the dog-bone links I got from Evil HQ are different from one another until now. Scratching my head here, which one goes where, and how? Drive side, non-drive side?
im in the process of taking the bike apart again to clean and just noticed that also.
edit: the non-drive side link needs to be installed in the upright position its in right now in the pic
Last edited:
Perfect, thanks a lot. Again 
did you get the snap rings too?Perfect, thanks a lot. Again
How the hell do you crack a shock? Where did it fail?
I cracked just underneath the compression adjuster. The material over the clip that holds the screw in is just too thin. It seems to happen to all first gen RC4's if you ride a bit. If you dont know about it and keeps an eye out it comes flying out when it fails completely. It has been known to dent/brake frames from hitting them full force.
Fox has updated that part with more material so if you have a first gen RC4 then you should contact Fox to get it swapped for a new one. If they start answering emails that is.
So who has the old RC4 then? Every single Revolt sold last year apart from the ones with dhx5.
Fox has updated that part with more material so if you have a first gen RC4 then you should contact Fox to get it swapped for a new one. If they start answering emails that is.
So who has the old RC4 then? Every single Revolt sold last year apart from the ones with dhx5.
Sure thing. Was a minor headache getting the plastic bushings in between the dog-bone and Delta link in the right place though.
i got my original frame when they only came with the DHX's, but upgraded to the RC4 WC. i was originally told the WC version didnt have a different tune than the normal RC4's, but after talking to a few people at Fox, it in fact did.
yeah, they are a bit tricky, but if you use a screwdriver to hold everything in place, they should go right in.
Talked to Cane Creek, can't promise to have it here within the next week so no use then and same thing with elka. Now I'm busy in the workshop trying to fix the fox temporarely.
nothing like scrambling for parts right before a trip. ive been there many many times.
nothing like scrambling for parts in the middle of a trip. At home there wouldn't have been a problem. But with 9 days left in Whistler it is more of a problem.
Just got back a couple of days ago from a bike-park in Austria, riding was great, took apart the bike to get some sort of fancy Loctite on the bolts that I got from my personal boy-dexter, didn't have any problems getting them back after realizing they aren't symmetrical between one another and they have an up an down position also 
Very happy with the frame, rides far better than I can manage and sometimes it feels like I just get in its way and it would ride a lot better if I just get off it
I'm a smiling panda now
Very happy with the frame, rides far better than I can manage and sometimes it feels like I just get in its way and it would ride a lot better if I just get off it
I'm a smiling panda now
Did a quick fix to keep the RC4 from blowing up on me. Praying that it will work.
Attachments
lolz. what are you using to hold the compression adjuster down?
Cut off copperpipe tied down with some wire.
Last edited:
And it worked fine this afternoon in the park I might ad.
i wish my revolt was neon.
Is this a medium size frame?My current setup:
Yup, that's a Medium.
Is this for real? i never heard anything like this before. I got mine last sep so will def be up for changing it out.
Andrie, how do your find your formula the ones? I have just bought a set and am struggling to set them up right. Lever reach fully in seems to be a long way out still, and you need to pull them a long way before the pad contacts the disc. There isn't a pad contact adjustment I know of, but I hav heard thru bleeding and adding more fluid to the system you can adjust them that way....
Keen to hear your thoughts...
Judd
Keen to hear your thoughts...
Judd
so my revolt with original hardware decided to eat itself at whistler today. A fairly large amount of alloy is missing from the downtube. seeing as the bolts were all done up to torque spec when i started the day is this likely to be covered under warranty?
Last edited:
will get some up tomorrow
@Juddos: I am currently running the '09 version of Formulas so therefore I can't actually help you with setting your new ones. I will hopefully buy the new Ones anytime soon and I will be able to write a word on them. After rebleeding and changing the pads the old brakes feel very good, although I've notice that, on the long run, you should have a complete O Ring set for the brakes and change them once a season. Otherwise, great brakes, excellent stopping power and lightweight.
You could try adding more fluid. That shoud help with your pad reach. When I had the old worn out pads the travel of the lever was slightly longer and by adding just a little bit a fluid I've fixed that at the time. Try that and let me know how it worked out for you.
You could try adding more fluid. That shoud help with your pad reach. When I had the old worn out pads the travel of the lever was slightly longer and by adding just a little bit a fluid I've fixed that at the time. Try that and let me know how it worked out for you.
No, do not ad more fluid. That can wreck the membranes in the brake (I know). Just unscrew it from the adapter and pump the brake one or two times and put it back. Voila, you have better pad reach.
haha yeah it is! its bizarre when it happens
lolz.
it should be covered under warranty.
Why cant they ship a set of new bolts to the old customers? im sick of hearing about/seeing these things snap! Surely the price of warranty frames cant be far off new bolts?
that makes too much sense
im wanting to know whats going on with this also
Just to let you know. My McGyver-fix for the RC4 doesn't work.