Quantcast

Fox 40 Dampener Technical Advice Needed

Dawson308

Chimp
May 14, 2008
46
0
Roseville, CA
I have two different Fox 40s that have two separate dampener issues that I am trying to figure out how to fix. I have experience replacing blown dampener bladders, but I have never had a dampener apart at the seal head, (or the middle of the shaft).

Failure 1: 2009 40 RC2
Replaced a blown bladder and after replacing the bladder, the rebound then worked properly, but we noticed there was NO compression dampening when the dampener was compressed regardless of hi or low speed compression settings. I never had the seal head apart or to my knowledge messed with anything in the compression part of the dampener. (I am under the impression that the bladder part only is for rebound dampening).

Failure 2: 2006 Fox 40R
Rebound dampening stopped working completely regardless of rebound setting. After replacing two blown bladders recently, I assumed that this was the problem. When I took the lowers off I was surprised to see the that the bladder was not poking out past the cap. I went ahead and removed the bladder and It appeared to be in perfect condition. I went ahead and replaced the oil under the bladder, bled it out, and installed a new bladder and cap hoping this might fix it. Rebound dampening worked slightly when the adjustment was turned all the way in, but after several minutes of riding the rebound dampening stopped functioning completely.


I have been reading Fox's dampener service instructions on their web site but I am still a little confused about what could be causing each problem. Could the rebound dampening failure on the 2006 40R could be caused by a worn Rebound Glide Ring as shown in this picture:


It does not say what that blue o-ring on the tip is but I was thinking maybe that is for the compression dampening? Thanks for any Help!

One More Question: I just replaced the bladders in each of these forks. Will I be able to leave the bladder and cap in place and just take apart the dampeners at the seal head to perform the needed repairs there?
 
Last edited:

daisycutter

Turbo Monkey
Apr 8, 2006
1,657
129
New York City
http://www.enduroforkseals.com/id152.html

Using the search function I found these replies which maybe helpful.

http://www.ridemonkey.com/forums/showthread.php?t=234814

Yes you have blown the bladder. You may not have noticed a loss in damper performance because not much oil has leaked out of the damper yet. The cartridge rebuild kit, which has a replacement bladder (along with many other o-rings) should run you about $35~40 and you'll need some 10wt oil to do the rebuild. You don't need shaft clamps, but they do make the job easier. Fox has good detailed instructions here: http://service.foxracingshox.com/consumers/index.htm

I've had pretty much every single generations of 40's since they first came out years ago and only had ONE blown bladder.Im not sure what actually causes this but numbers of people Ive met with the same issue are usually running no or very little compression.Once they've used all of the available travel, there's nothing to prevent a sudden rise of pressure inside the bladder and then BANG!...
 

Dawson308

Chimp
May 14, 2008
46
0
Roseville, CA
http://www.enduroforkseals.com/id152.html

Using the search function I found these replies which maybe helpful.

http://www.ridemonkey.com/forums/showthread.php?t=234814

Yes you have blown the bladder. You may not have noticed a loss in damper performance because not much oil has leaked out of the damper yet. The cartridge rebuild kit, which has a replacement bladder (along with many other o-rings) should run you about $35~40 and you'll need some 10wt oil to do the rebuild. You don't need shaft clamps, but they do make the job easier. Fox has good detailed instructions here: http://service.foxracingshox.com/consumers/index.htm

I've had pretty much every single generations of 40's since they first came out years ago and only had ONE blown bladder.Im not sure what actually causes this but numbers of people Ive met with the same issue are usually running no or very little compression.Once they've used all of the available travel, there's nothing to prevent a sudden rise of pressure inside the bladder and then BANG!...
I used the search function and the thread that you referenced was a previous thread of mine in regard to a blown bladder issue that has since been fixed. I am asking about other dampener issues that replacing the bladder did not fix. I want to learn what inside the dampener is causing these issues, so I can be sure that I am repairing it properly.
 
Last edited:

armada

Monkey
Aug 27, 2010
196
0
maybe just maybe you instaled the blader wrong? i think the iner lip of the blader isnt siting right, so you have oil in you blader making it useless
 

RoboS

Chimp
Sep 1, 2008
44
0
I found that bladder can last longer if you install it when shaft is few centimeters pushed inside. That prevents high pressure inside the damper. On my 36RC2 I push damper 4cm to travel and then fill with oil and install bladder. Works perfectly.
 

Dawson308

Chimp
May 14, 2008
46
0
Roseville, CA
I haven't called Fox yet. They usually put me on hold for 15 or 20 minutes and I'm very busy during the day. I'll try to call them as soon as I get time. I feel confident that I installed the bladders correctly and the bladder lip is seated properly inside the cap. I have replaced them in the past. The 09 40 now has properly working rebound after I replaced the bladder, I think the compression was blown already before I even took it apart. The 06 40, it seems the bladder was never even blown and something else is causing the lack of rebound dampening.
 

troy

Turbo Monkey
Dec 3, 2008
1,008
742
Failure 2: 2006 Fox 40R
Rebound dampening stopped working completely regardless of rebound setting. After replacing two blown bladders recently, I assumed that this was the problem. When I took the lowers off I was surprised to see the that the bladder was not poking out past the cap. I went ahead and removed the bladder and It appeared to be in perfect condition. I went ahead and replaced the oil under the bladder, bled it out, and installed a new bladder and cap hoping this might fix it. Rebound dampening worked slightly when the adjustment was turned all the way in, but after several minutes of riding the rebound dampening stopped functioning completely.
Worn glide ring may cause lack(or lower range of adjustment) of rebound damping. Oil passes the piston through the gap between cartridge tube and glide ring so there is no enough oil to flow through the rebound bleed hole (it controls LSR). IIRC blue glide ring seals/guides bottom out system - worn gl > less progressive damping > higher pressure in the system > blown bladder .
 

Argonzero

Chimp
Nov 25, 2002
66
0
Garden Grove
Worn glide ring may cause lack(or lower range of adjustment) of rebound damping. Oil passes the piston through the gap between cartridge tube and glide ring so there is no enough oil to flow through the rebound bleed hole (it controls LSR). IIRC blue glide ring seals/guides bottom out system - worn gl > less progressive damping > higher pressure in the system > blown bladder .
Makes sense to me. There's obviously something in the fork which is meant to be compromised when the system is at high pressure; I'd rather it be a 15 dollar bladder and cap combo or a few seals then some other metal parts.

BTW, these guys ride, huck, jump (and occasionally case) hard! I'm not surprised =D
 

Dawson308

Chimp
May 14, 2008
46
0
Roseville, CA
Worn glide ring may cause lack(or lower range of adjustment) of rebound damping. Oil passes the piston through the gap between cartridge tube and glide ring so there is no enough oil to flow through the rebound bleed hole (it controls LSR). IIRC blue glide ring seals/guides bottom out system - worn gl > less progressive damping > higher pressure in the system > blown bladder .
Thanks! That is exactly what I was looking for. I wonder if the blue glide ring is worn and causing the lack of compression dampening on the 09 40.
 

Steve M

Turbo Monkey
Mar 3, 2007
1,991
45
Whistler
Thanks! That is exactly what I was looking for. I wonder if the blue glide ring is worn and causing the lack of compression dampening on the 09 40.
That blue glide ring is only for the hydraulic bottom-out, it doesn't affect compression except in the last inch or two of the stroke.

I have seen the lip on the rebound pistons bend or break off before, completely losing/destroying the glide ring, which caused the symptoms you are describing. I kinda doubt you've just plain worn it out enough for things to be that significantly wrong, but hey if you ride 5x a week and have done for the past 4 years then this might be the case! In any case, chances are that it is something to do with the glide ring not sealing properly, either because it's worn out, broken up, or the piston lip has shat the bed and dumped the glide ring altogether.

As for the lack of compression damping, this may sound a bit rude but it's entirely possible that this is the first time you've actually noticed that the compression adjusters on some 40s actually do almost nothing since the stock valving on them (up until 09, not sure whether those had the old super-super-light valving or not) was so light! If you're 100% sure that you were able to get significantly more compression out of them before rebuilding, then you need to pull them apart again and check the compression assembly. Particularly, take note of how many shims are in there - if it's only one then you still have the old-style valving that was pretty much zero compression damping across the board. Newer ones had 4 or 5 shims of various sizes, from memory. If you do have the 4 or 5 shims in there, then you need to be disassembling and checking all the parts in there.
 
Last edited:

Dawson308

Chimp
May 14, 2008
46
0
Roseville, CA
That blue glide ring is only for the hydraulic bottom-out, it doesn't affect compression except in the last inch or two of the stroke.

I have seen the lip on the rebound pistons bend or break off before, completely losing/destroying the glide ring, which caused the symptoms you are describing. I kinda doubt you've just plain worn it out enough for things to be that significantly wrong, but hey if you ride 5x a week and have done for the past 4 years then this might be the case! In any case, chances are that it is something to do with the glide ring not sealing properly, either because it's worn out, broken up, or the piston lip has shat the bed and dumped the glide ring altogether.

As for the lack of compression damping, this may sound a bit rude but it's entirely possible that this is the first time you've actually noticed that the compression adjusters on some 40s actually do almost nothing since the stock valving on them (up until 09, not sure whether those had the old super-super-light valving or not) was so light! If you're 100% sure that you were able to get significantly more compression out of them before rebuilding, then you need to pull them apart again and check the compression assembly. Particularly, take note of how many shims are in there - if it's only one then you still have the old-style valving that was pretty much zero compression damping across the board. Newer ones had 4 or 5 shims of various sizes, from memory. If you do have the 4 or 5 shims in there, then you need to be disassembling and checking all the parts in there.
Thanks, that is very helpful. I guess I need to take both the dampeners apart and take a look at everything. Now I know what I need to look for.
 

Cordsport

Chimp
Feb 15, 2009
26
0
What he said!

I had identical problems after popping a bladder. I did another full run with a blown damper and after rebuild i had the problems you described, i stripped and rebuilt again, this time with all new glide rings, inc the blue one (which is for the hydraulic bottom out) am guessing i wore them out/damaged them? and all was fine. Mine were the newer ones with more shims for compression damping.

Oh and by the way, it's a damper, not a dampener.
 

mtg

Green with Envy
Sep 21, 2009
1,862
1,604
Denver, CO
Even though the extra syllables in this thread are driving my OCD crazy...it seems to be a good tech talk thread on 40's. So, I have a question:

I have a 2010 40 RC2 FIT, and I'm pretty sure it has 7.5 wt oil in the damper, and I'm getting ready to rebuild the damper. But, Fox is now saying to use 10 wt damper oil.

Does anybody know for sure if the stock oil in a 2010 40 is 7.5wt, or was it really 10 wt? I don't want to service the damper and have all of my suspension settings go out the window.
 

Huck Banzai

Turbo Monkey
May 8, 2005
2,523
23
Transitory
Is it moist in here? Its probably just me.

You can fix that Fox easily, just get a 888

Yep, Im a **** (apparently crass too!)

braaap
 

mtg

Green with Envy
Sep 21, 2009
1,862
1,604
Denver, CO
Does anybody know for sure if the stock oil in a 2010 40 is 7.5wt, or was it really 10 wt? I don't want to service the damper and have all of my suspension settings go out the window.
Quoting my question, now that the thread has derailed a little.
 

Steve M

Turbo Monkey
Mar 3, 2007
1,991
45
Whistler
Quoting my question, now that the thread has derailed a little.
Oil weight is less relevant to your suspension setup (if you have a shimmed damper) than most people would have you believe. If Fox are telling you 10wt, use 10wt. "Weight" isn't a properly standardised measurement anyway, some 10wts are lower dynamic viscosity than some 5wts, for example. At worst it'll put your settings out a click or two. The actual quality of your oil is more relevant than the "weight" rating, so get yourself some good stuff (Silkolene Pro RSF, Motul Racing Line, most Torco oils have worked well for me, Torco being the supplier of Fox-branded oils) and stress less about the claimed weight! :)
 

mtg

Green with Envy
Sep 21, 2009
1,862
1,604
Denver, CO
Thanks Socket. Yeah, I am always hesitant referring to oil viscosity as "weight", but it is the standard term.
 

Udi

RM Chief Ornithologist
Mar 14, 2005
4,915
1,200
I have a 2010 40 RC2 FIT, and I'm pretty sure it has 7.5 wt oil in the damper, and I'm getting ready to rebuild the damper. But, Fox is now saying to use 10 wt damper oil.

Does anybody know for sure if the stock oil in a 2010 40 is 7.5wt, or was it really 10 wt? I don't want to service the damper and have all of my suspension settings go out the window.
Stock oil is Fox RED 10wt (which is rebadged Silkolene Pro RSF 10wt) and has been for a long time. Viscosity is around 47cSt and VI is around 300.

I would recommend using that oil specifically, as other 10wt oils are usually thinner than Silkolene, and don't have the correct viscosity index - which in my experience makes for a heavier damped fork (than ideal) when cold, and a lighter damped fork (than ideal) when hot.

The 40 damper has an oil volume not too different from a rear shock, and thus should be treated similarly with regards to fluid.

Hope that helps.