Well i've been debating on getting the hammerschmidt for months now and the time has come. Now i can't decide whether i want the FR or save the 120+ grams and use the AM. I am a light rider (150) and wasn't sure i needed the heavier bb spindle and thicker arms for, 'impact resistance.' Beyond what i can read online, has anyone used either model who can offer input and see a disadvantage to using the AM on downhill bike( session 88)?
Hammerschmidt AM vs FR
- Thread starter kemosabe83
- Start date
Doesnt the hammerschmit have different ratios for the am vs. the fr? I thought the am was the equivelant of a 32 front ring and the fr was like a 36. I may just be crazy though.
The am is available in 22-36 and 24-38. I would go the am route for sure, those things look plenty burly.
You're adding quite a bit of weight to your bike with Hammerschmidt already. Unless you're pedaling your Session 88 to the top of mountains in true backcountry fashion, I would ignore the 120g and buy the FR model; you're putting it on a downhill bike afterall. If you live in NJ and ride Diablo, it'd be a shame to ruin an AM crankarm on one of the many rocky (as hell) trails there. The AM setup I have on my Reign X is stout and stiff for that application, but would be comprable to running a Gravity Lite or Stylo set of arms for proper DH. Cranks are one place I don't like to shave weight on my DH bike.
You can get the hammerschmidt in bothe 22-36 and 24-38, The FR weighs 160grams more than the AM according to pinkbike. I'm not worried bout the thinner crankarms but the weaker bb kinda worries me.
Nice setup on that V-10. I'm getting this almost as a novel cool gadget i can get for cheap. I got another session dh built fully for dh race.
decisions decisions
Nice setup on that V-10. I'm getting this almost as a novel cool gadget i can get for cheap. I got another session dh built fully for dh race.
decisions decisions
The Hammerschmidt replaces the FD, front chainrings, cranks thats the whole point of it so you dont run a FD
I know that guy.
I'm asking about the Trek Session FR in particular since it only comes with one ring. It doesn't look like it has room for a FD so I want to know if it's possible to mount the hammerschmidt on because I'm not sure what ISCG it's running. Comprende?
It shoudl work fine, routing the hammerschimdt shifting cable might be a bit messy, but it'll work.. that v10 wasn't designed to have a FD.
kemosabe has had the hammer mounted on one of his Sessions all year now with no problems. the chain clearance near the hammerschmidt and chainstay is a bit close, but nothing that cant be worked around.
The q-factor on the FR version is about 6mm more and works much better on DH bikes with wide chainstays.
the FR and DH were different? he has a DH also (you can see it in the background,) but he hasnt tried it on that.
the light didnt turn on in my head until after i wrote that
ive been running the fr version on my dh bike for some months now and its been solid, ridden dry/wet/muddy as f and it has been completely problem free, so sick to shift w/o pedaling!
I'm a hair heavier then you and run an AM on my '10 Glory I've had for a year. It's been awesome for everything from Whistler to full on XC rides in Moab. It climbs ridiculously well along with having a Gravity Dropper. I have several heavier friends who run the FR versions (one has been mounted on a Session for 2 years now). I didn't notice if the Session needs the slightly wider Q-factor, but I doubt it. Personally, I'd go the AM at your weight unless you're building the rest of the bike up heavy. My Glory is only 37lbs with this setup. It would be 35lbs if I ran air suspension. Hmmmmmmmmmmm...
Ive got 3 Hammerschmidt and love them all. 
I tried the AM version on my 951 to begin with. The crank tip would only clear the rear seatstay by about 1mm. I swapped to the FR version for more clearance.
Go with the FR version if you are running it on a DH bike. The FR version is only 162g heavier. My 951 weighs 39 lbs and my SS weighs 33 lbs.
I tried the AM version on my 951 to begin with. The crank tip would only clear the rear seatstay by about 1mm. I swapped to the FR version for more clearance.
Go with the FR version if you are running it on a DH bike. The FR version is only 162g heavier. My 951 weighs 39 lbs and my SS weighs 33 lbs.
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Kntr, thanks for posting those pictures. That's close! I don't have any empirical data, but I have to imagine that frames and cranks flex enough that they might meet given such limited clearance.
You will most likely be fine on the AM version. That is what I run. I even ditched the outer bash guard to save more weight, because you are not likely to hit this thing - it's so small.
Jason C
The chance of them flexing at that exact point is small. Mine never hit all year. I love the HS.
I wouldnt ditch the outer ring. Ive hit mine a few times.
Its loud. Its gets better as it gets broke in. I like the reverse pattern now that Im use to it.
Hey Matt!
What bike got the HS? Did you put it on the big bike?
You should plan on a CO trip next Summer.
It's loud as hell.. which I like! I've come to prefer the reverse shifting patter over time for some reason. There are only two gears so it's not like you can accidentally shift into a gear that you don't want. Worst case scenario is that you hit the wrong paddle and nothing happens.
Hi!
How is your expirience so far...i weight about 180... propobly 190 with full equipment. and i wonder if i should go with AM or FR version.
I want to put it on a nomad, i ride mostly AM with a little bit of FR... but sometimes i like to fly
I've hear that the BB on AM version is pretty weak...?
How is your expirience so far...i weight about 180... propobly 190 with full equipment. and i wonder if i should go with AM or FR version.
I want to put it on a nomad, i ride mostly AM with a little bit of FR... but sometimes i like to fly
I've hear that the BB on AM version is pretty weak...?
I purchased the AM, and think it is plenty tough. I didn't ride it for long, but when i did i hit all the drops at Diablo Freeride park, and clipped a few rocks, still works like a dream
with the great 10spd ratios out i wonder how long HS will be on the market for...it seems to have fallen from grace a bit...
I'm sure it will shave a pound or so in the near future and keep it in the game. Weight seems to be it's only drawback at this point.....although that could probably be said for 1000 "NEW" products that went away 
i love the idea of it, but also love super quick engaging hubs which it kinda kills...I have been training myself to run 1 ring over the past few years so far so good. But we dont have the climbs some of you guys do...
unless 2x10 or 3x10 setups go away completely, then the product will still have a place. its replacing your front drivetrain and i dont see everyone embracing 1x10 as their only option.
I've seen a few single speed Dh bikes with Hammerschmidts.
Also, the engagement isn't bad when you pair it with a good rear hub. I have a HS with a Hope rear hub on my DH bike and it isn't the greatest. On my AM bike I have a HS with I9s and I never notice the bad engagement. You just gotta run a good engagement rear hub with a HS.
Also, the engagement isn't bad when you pair it with a good rear hub. I have a HS with a Hope rear hub on my DH bike and it isn't the greatest. On my AM bike I have a HS with I9s and I never notice the bad engagement. You just gotta run a good engagement rear hub with a HS.
It depends if you're in overdrive or not. When in overdrive you're I9 engagement doesn't mean anything, since it's negated by the engagement of HS. You will only have I9 engagement when in 1:1 on HS.
your hub does not coast and pedal in overdrive?
I've been using a 'Schmidt on my trailbike for 2 years, and I'd much rather see them work on the drag in the overdrive gear than weight.
On a separate note, the 2x10 systems have probably taken some of the Hammerschmidt market, but the 'schmidt still has the advantages of instant shifting regardless of pedaling, massive ground clearance and a built-in chain guide. I haven't dropped a chain in the 2 years I've been using mine.
HS itself has 24 points of engagement in overdrive. Your hub still coasts and pedals, but if you're coasting or back pedaling in overdrive, your system is only as fast as the weakest engagement. 24 points. That's why having an I9 hub doesn't make HS better like previously stated, you have 24 points of engagement in overdrive despite the hub being faster; it only has I9 engagement in 1:1 when the pawls are not engaged.
If this is confusing, see my old thread, including post #35. http://www.ridemonkey.com/forums/f19/those-interested-hammerschmidt-214277/index2/
The system is cool and a bit of a novelty purchase for me back when it came out, but 1lb of weight difference isn't worth it to me anymore. Shimano's 2x10 system is dialed these days with stiffer chainrings and the extra tension provided by their Shadow Plus XTR derailleur. Chain drop isn't an issue anymore.
Rear hub does matter. If you were here I could show you on both bikes. It is noticeable, but not all the time.
If the HS is between engagements AND the rear hub is caught between engagements the clunk happens. Yes the HS should be the determining factor since its engagement is 24 pts and the rear is 36pt... but if the HS starts to engage and the rear hub is right between engaging you get them added together. Its hard to explain but I do feel it a lot on my DH bike. There will be a clunk from the rear hub. I only get it once in a great while.
With the I9 hub you are only depending on the HS. The hub is never caught not engaged.
I use the 1:1 climbing so I never feel the drag. I only use the OD when DH and I never really notice the drag.
If the HS is between engagements AND the rear hub is caught between engagements the clunk happens. Yes the HS should be the determining factor since its engagement is 24 pts and the rear is 36pt... but if the HS starts to engage and the rear hub is right between engaging you get them added together. Its hard to explain but I do feel it a lot on my DH bike. There will be a clunk from the rear hub. I only get it once in a great while.
With the I9 hub you are only depending on the HS. The hub is never caught not engaged.
I use the 1:1 climbing so I never feel the drag. I only use the OD when DH and I never really notice the drag.
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