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Angleset problem

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My Nuts Are Flat
Apr 18, 2002
18,040
3
Towing the party line.
So i have a problem with the 1.5" angleset on my demo.

I recently received a 0 cup to try out on the top. Installation seemed to go fine, but the bearing is moving in the gimble. I have a spare gimble, and same thing. No matter how tight it gets cranked down, preload ring and all, the bearing click backs and forth in the gimble, making the entire headset extremely loose.

Anyone else experience this? I even tried to put a spacer between the crown and headset upper race to crank things down, but no dice.
 

yuroshek

Turbo Monkey
Jun 26, 2007
2,438
0
Arizona!
Sounds weird but try switching the bearings, maybe they got mixed up? or try switching the two gold gimble? things I think one is different from the other If im not mistaken.
 

Transcend

My Nuts Are Flat
Apr 18, 2002
18,040
3
Towing the party line.
Sounds weird but try switching the bearings, maybe they got mixed up? or try switching the two gold gimble? things I think one is different from the other If im not mistaken.
Well the new cup didn't come with a spare bearing. Just a cup and gimble. Maybe i need another bearing??

As far as I understood, they were the same, but I could be wrong. I have the new gimble from the 0 deg and the old one from the .5, bearing does the same in both. Bearing looks to be fine, not even a ding etc.
 

yuroshek

Turbo Monkey
Jun 26, 2007
2,438
0
Arizona!
Well the new cup didn't come with a spare bearing. Just a cup and gimble. Maybe i need another bearing??

As far as I understood, they were the same, but I could be wrong. I have the new gimble from the 0 deg and the old one from the .5, bearing does the same in both. Bearing looks to be fine, not even a ding etc.
Im confused on what the gimble is... Is it that gold cup looking thing?
 

Zoso

Monkey
Jan 31, 2003
212
0
Seattle
Use a standard Cane Creek 1.5 flush top cup, no gimbles. If its zero deg it shouldn't matter. You have to press a cup in and out regardless, might as well use the simpler setup.

OR

I'd try adding a few micro shims in between the top cap and the compression split ring. The tolerances are tight and sometimes the cap bottoms out on the gimble before it can fully load the bearing.
 

EVIL JN

Monkey
Jul 24, 2009
491
24
Maybe a silly question but are you sure put in the bearing the right way? it happend on my first try with a pair of k9 cups with cc bearings and the headset became very loose like 2 feet out of the door.
 

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My Nuts Are Flat
Apr 18, 2002
18,040
3
Towing the party line.
Maybe a silly question but are you sure put in the bearing the right way? it happend on my first try with a pair of k9 cups with cc bearings and the headset became very loose like 2 feet out of the door.
Pretty sure, the bearings are bevelled and only fit in one way as far as I can tell??
 

EVIL JN

Monkey
Jul 24, 2009
491
24
They are bevelled but they can still go in either way. After that one time i put the bearing in the wrong way i always double check that its in the correct way, its quite easy to forget if it gets mounted in a hurry, because thats what i did and it didnt take many feet before everything ratteld loose (though this was on k9 cups).
 

Transcend

My Nuts Are Flat
Apr 18, 2002
18,040
3
Towing the party line.
So...answer to the problem - the effective stack height on the different cups (0, .5 and 1) is different due to how far the gimble sits in the cup. Visually it's basically the same, but the gimble rests at different heights inside the cup. Something to watch out for!
 

Orfen

Monkey
Feb 22, 2004
259
0
UP, michigan
So...answer to the problem - the effective stack height on the different cups (0, .5 and 1) is different due to how far the gimble sits in the cup. Visually it's basically the same, but the gimble rests at different heights inside the cup. Something to watch out for!
so what exactly did you do to fix the problem?
 

OGRipper

back alley ripper
Feb 3, 2004
10,647
1,116
NORCAL is the hizzle
So...answer to the problem - the effective stack height on the different cups (0, .5 and 1) is different due to how far the gimble sits in the cup. Visually it's basically the same, but the gimble rests at different heights inside the cup. Something to watch out for!
As in, you just needed to add another spacer? I thought you tried that.
 

Transcend

My Nuts Are Flat
Apr 18, 2002
18,040
3
Towing the party line.
As in, you just needed to add another spacer? I thought you tried that.
Yup, I needed a slightly larger spacer apparently.

I don't think the gimbles seated properly (or maybe the bearing) the first time. So it looked like i had more than enough spacers.

However, there's a few small things to look out for during installation. Josh from CC went through it this morning. Photos and audio coming soon...
 

bizutch

Delicate CUSTOM flower
Dec 11, 2001
15,928
24
Over your shoulder whispering
Yup, I needed a slightly larger spacer apparently.

I don't think the gimbles seated properly (or maybe the bearing) the first time. So it looked like i had more than enough spacers.

However, there's a few small things to look out for during installation. Josh from CC went through it this morning. Photos and audio coming soon...
I'm confused. Are they a west coast service group for Cane Creek or are you in Asheville this week?:confused:
 

yuroshek

Turbo Monkey
Jun 26, 2007
2,438
0
Arizona!
Funny now I notice my gimble in the lower cup is "moving" when I drop the front end. Is this what was happening to yours?
 

Transcend

My Nuts Are Flat
Apr 18, 2002
18,040
3
Towing the party line.
Funny now I notice my gimble in the lower cup is "moving" when I drop the front end. Is this what was happening to yours?
It was one of the things. If it is moving, it isn't locked into place - you need to reinstall the fork.

I'll have a very specific how to up on pinkbike monday with the boys from CC.
 

Orangesicle

Chimp
Feb 16, 2011
32
0
Does this sound familiar to anyone with the angleset on an M9? "CLICK"

I have noticed an audible "click" in my angleset during some motion and hits. Usually from heavy braking on pavement, stoppies and such. Must be going on while on the trail but don't ever hear it there. I've reinstalled and lubed everything and still the same "click". Thought it might have something to do with the M9 adjustable upper cup interface and tightening flange, but I cannot isolate the noise. I've loosened and torqued and re-torqed everything.

Can anyone help me stop the noise? Ideas?
 

IH8Rice

I'm Mr. Negative! I Fail!
Aug 2, 2008
24,524
494
Im over here now
i just started getting a similar issue on my M9 this past week. im in the process of disassembling the bike to clean it up and inspect what it might be.
 

Capricorn

Monkey
Jan 9, 2010
425
0
Cape Town, ZA
Stickman: are these just coincidences wrt the M9 click, or a generic issue that's been latent till now?
BTW: took delivery of my M9 last week and being built this week. Many thanks for coming thru for me :)
 

Uncle Cliffy

Turbo Monkey
Jan 28, 2008
4,490
42
Southern Oregon
Anyone else with a dual crown still getting that "pop" when you hit a bump?

I have an Angleset on my Trance X and it's been rock solid. Does everything a headset's supposed to do with no noise, and I only installed it once.

Big bike= no dice. Did 5+ installations with 2 of the different cups, new bearings, new crown race, ect. Cane Creek dude said I was "doing it wrong." Sooo over it. I'm thinking it might go on my Slopestyle instead, but in the meantime the good old XXC flush reducer I had laying around solved the problem...