my old/new DHR and a setup question

Get a Yeti?

But in all seriousness, just fire the shock off to Push. Get your shock issues fixed and your own custom setup back.

I'll be honest, that shock just flat out feels awful on that frame but it's a great bike. Just get another shock that you can have custom tuned and you're set

The DHXc 5 might need some loving, however check your sag, the DHR esp that model requires little setup of the shock other than sag!

I think ya spring rate is low, I'm around that weight and I run a 550lb spring with 30% sag.

ideal imo is 30% on this model DHR.
I run 150psi in the BV also, pretty fast rebound and have not adj and thing else from stock.

I have no issues running fast enough rebound and since Ive been on her I definitely run faster rebound now than I would have in the past on this and other bikes, so you should be able to dial that in if the shocks working correctly not damaged or in need of service.

Have a read of Dave Turners post here, post # 18 scroll down and it pretty bang on.

http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=422636

Regardless of what people say of the DHXc and its not my fav shock either but it can work well if the bike is setup correctly this just doesn't refer to the shock, i ya fork is badly setup then the shock will also feel that and the ride won't be balanced.

Also, just some basics on the DHR maintained wise if you want it to last well and not have many of the issues people have targeted in the past, mainly lack of knowledge or maintenance!

Replace the rear reducers DU when needed or now with IGUS bushing and a 3pce to replace the 2 pce reducer, this will stiffen but also reduce eliminate the slop that is a weak point with that model DHR. check here!
http://www.tftunedshox.com/info/mount_kits_bushings.aspx

scroll down to the heavy duty mounts!

Don't use to thick a grease to lube the stout link and main pivot otherwise it won't penetrate the needle bearing and remove crap and more importantly moisture and relube. after 2 seasons I'm still on the originals, I do mine every 4 rides, and after every wet ride its easy to and preventitive!

I replaced all my shock & link bolts from stainless steel to high tensile steel, keep em clean so they don't rust of spray em, but this is also one of the biggest things I think ya can do to improve the under sized bolts to maintain the correct tension without stripping the bolts and nutz, way cheaper too.

The bike is awesome enjoy.

Check ya SAG.............

If possible before sending it off def check what Ive suggested before hand otherwise you might end up with the same result, not because its not a good idea but you are working off the wrong base figures. Push can't read minds and work miracles, they can only go off what you give them. Better the info [accuracy, the better the tune will be and better ROI]

ps Bike looks awesome btw.

Awsome bike! One of the nicest frames ever made if I may say so (I've got a gray large one myself )

Just a stupid question, have you tried fitting the shock backwards. I know a few people solved the problem that way with s*toys. Don't know if they needed extra mods. I would be very curious to hear if it fit. In that case I would get a RC4 myself.

Check here:
http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=686654

I switched to a Vivid 5.1 on my DHR when I had it and loved it. Its a pity the RC4 doesn't fit as I've found that shock to be a vast improvement over my old DHX5.

i2i 245mm [9.5"]
30%
= 73.5mm when correctly centered on bike in gear, shoes what you ride in etc!

1" um, must be measured off shock stroke right?

Easiest way to measure sag for em or this is how I do it, I measure center to center from shock bolts, static, no rider or load, total length is 245mm if correctly sprung should be minus 73.5mm 4 30%, get someone else to re-measure you should get 171.5mm loaded e.g with me and all my race/ride gear on inclu Helmet..

I guess you're trying to measure the stroke @ 30% harder to do just my experience maybe not as accurate, just saying, .01 of an inch can be a bit in inches still ya sound like youre close.

Seems like its the shock, DHR def likes a bit more rebound once dialed in it can def handle it and is faster in and out of corners poppy and more controlled, less packing up the faster ya ride Ive found. I used to run really slow rebounds as a rule on the rear, but this baby just loves the wick turned up.

I guess this is based off the ti spring in the piccs's, I also run about 2 clicks of pp but not for pedaling more for compression mid stroke of shock, while not a fan of the DHXc Ive really got no complaints about it, but I am more of a RS fan, run a Boxxer 2, 10v2 Team.

Also another tip when re tightening those link bolts, do so under load e.g not in the bike stand, reassemble in the bike stand but once done then let the bike rest on its own weight before nipping up those link bolts/nutz.

I hear ya on a ride its pissing down cats n dogs here just over the wet season already here lol.

Also Vivid 5.1 is my next shock with obtainium/k9 spring bearing if I can get a hold of one.

Bummer ya can't get out on her, you'll love the bike once ya get her dialed. Great specc ya got on they're as well, been running that gen Saint rear d now for awhile too awesome kit on the DHR, tucks nicely away behind the rear dropout on the cs, been impressed with it, cheers.

GoodbyePorkPie said:

i2i 245mm [9.5"]
30%
= 73.5mm when correctly centered on bike in gear, shoes what you ride in etc!

1" um, must be measured off shock stroke right?

Easiest way to measure sag for em or this is how I do it, I measure center to center from shock bolts, static, no rider or load, total length is 245mm if correctly sprung should be minus 73.5mm 4 30%, get someone else to re-measure you should get 171.5mm loaded e.g with me and all my race/ride gear on inclu Helmet..

I guess you're trying to measure the stroke @ 30% harder to do just my experience maybe not as accurate, just saying, .01 of an inch can be a bit in inches still ya sound like youre close.
.

Click to expand...

This is completely wrong for many reasons...

Nick said:

toodles: can I assume you went with the lightest compression tune? (is that "A"?)

Click to expand...

Yep, ran the A tune (lightest) with the firm bottom out bumper.

Unless ya keen to spend more, then value for performance I vote the push tune!

Happy trails

I'm very curious to see if an RC4 would fit backwards, with the reservoir to the rear. If you have the shock could you test it. Like this guy is doing with his stoy:

Ok thanks anyway

Nick,

Did I read that you are running NO ProPedal...and NO bottom out with almost no rebound?

OK. I was going to point out how ridiculous that setting would be if you "thought" those settings were right. But I get it now. I am 180-190 and have drawn a blank on what spring(350 or 400) that I ran.

The bike is definitely lively and with the DHX 5.0, I ran very little rebound. About 4 clicks in from full out. 125 to 150 psi and roughly 2 1/2 turns on the Pro pedal. 1 turn of Bottom out...sometimes bordered on two if the course was huckerific or really open without lots of medium hits.

That being said it will ride low until you're really, REALLY pointed down. Once you get on some steeps, it doesn't have that feel of excessive sag.

But if you've tried similar settings to what I had and it still responds like a turd, off it goes to Darren.