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Lightweight Phoenix

trap121

Monkey
May 26, 2011
136
0
This is going to be my first DH bike and I'm trying to build it as light as possible without sacrificing durability. The problem is I don't know too much about the different DH components.

These are the components Ive been looking at.........

Small Pivot Phoenix frame

Point one racing direct mount limited stem

Thompson masterpiece seatpost

2011 Twenty6 Prerunner Ti Axle

Easton Havoc carbon low rise 750mm

Rock Shox boxxer world cup

Shimano Saint M810 ss/saint shift

Shimano saint M815 83x165

Shimano dura ace CS7700 12x25t

Formula One the one 203mm

Titanium spring

Cane creek angle set

Mrp G2 mini sl 32x36t

E13 guide ring

Dee max ultimate

maxxis minions

If I'm going in the wrong direction can someone chime in and give me a hand?

Any advice is appreciated
 

cableguy

Monkey
Jun 23, 2007
463
1
Southern California
Looks great! The only things I would not use on the list are the carbon bar and the Ti pedal axles. And probably not the Angleset (see the thread on RM) unless you really need it.
 

drastic.

Monkey
May 16, 2011
145
0
pleasanton, ca
my few suggestions..

1) holy cow on the twenty6 ti pedals...250$ for a pair! If you want the weight savings, and dont mind the non-bling...get wellgo MG-1 ti pedals...you can get em w/ the ti axle for 60$ on ebay, and they are 301g/pair vs 310g/pair for the twenty6's...

also, superstar has pedals w/ ti axles that weigh like 275g/pair...and are roughly like 150$ i believe...comes in an assortment of colors and diff colored pins (if you like that look).

2) kcnc seat post instead of the thompson. it's lighter, and cheaper. for a 400mm length seatpost, its 145g...cut down...we're talking about sub-100g post for under $100! awesome deal...

3) running ghetto tubeless can help you shave 1-300g/rim depending on what type of tube you had in there prior. less rotational mass, and very cheap to convert.

4) those easton carbon bar's are suppose to be extremely strong and very light. i see the pros/cons of running them, with the cons just being that there is no indication of when they'll break...when they fail, they snap. When alu bar's fail, they bend. which would you prefer? And if you cut the alum bars down to 750mm like the easton's, they will weigh within 50g of the carbon bars..
 
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ustemuf

Monkey
Apr 8, 2010
198
15
Bay Area
i agree with cableguy

truvativ boobars or renthal fat bars are good options instead of carbon.

twenty6 pedals are super frail. i have personally seen them break. i had bad luck with their frail direct mount stems as well. get some point 1 podiums instead to save money and get a better pedal that can take some abuse.
 

MTBAlex

Chimp
Jun 18, 2008
68
0
Campbell, CA
I have the twenty6 prerunner Ti and they are super sticky and light. Bi haven't broke them yet but only had them for a month. I think given a choice again I would go for the point one because they are pretty close in weight and a lot cheaper. But if you got he dough and want the bling, go for it.
 

Banga

Monkey
Sep 7, 2001
362
11
Wellington, New Zealand
smaller rotor on the rear, don't need a 200mm on the ones unless your 200+lbs IMO.
I run a 180mm on the rear at 160lbs no worries.

An you can probably get a lighter wheelset for less depending on your weight/style, i.e Flows on Hadley/Hope/DT hubs.
 

no skid marks

Monkey
Jan 15, 2006
2,511
29
ACT Australia
These are the components Ive been looking at.........Below is what I think. It's just my opinion. Most things with bikes are a compramise, only you can pick the best compramises for you.

Small Pivot Phoenix frame Zerode.

Point one racing direct mount limited stem

Thompson masterpiece seatpost SDG I-Beam

2011 Twenty6 Prerunner Ti Axle PO1NT Podiums

Easton Havoc carbon low rise 750mm Dieties Blacks or Dirty 30s if you don't want wide(just do wide), or Reverse's bars. Change either anually, as they're light. I put them on my all MTN rig after a year or more of DH.

Rock Shox boxxer world cup 888 reliability, long service intervals and plushness is worth the weight penalty.

Shimano Saint M810 ss/saint shift If you don't go Zerode, I'd go Sram for shifter and Mech.

Shimano saint M815 83x165 Gravity or Truvativs new cranks are lighter, not sure of durability of either as they're both new this year.

Shimano dura ace CS7700 12x25t

Formula One the one 203mmGood choice, 180 rear as mentioned. Small pads can get hot. Go Saints if your a big fella that drags the brakes, and ride long long DHs. If not all of the above, get the Formulas. I'm digging my XTRs, but I'm none of the above.

Titanium spring

Cane creek angle set hmmmm

Mrp G2 mini sl 32x36tMozartt

E13 guide ring

Dee max ultimateI9 normal spoke/823 rear, and Tune or Hope/721 Ghetto or 823 front

maxxis minions

If I'm going in the wrong direction can someone chime in and give me a hand? Aftr going up 2kg in weight since my last bike, I've realised the weight thing ain't all that, and better prducts are worth their weight in some cases. Focus on rotating weight, then high weight.

Any advice is appreciated
quote=drastic.;3640293]my few suggestions..

1) holy cow on the twenty6 ti pedals...250$ for a pair! If you want the weight savings, and dont mind the non-bling...get wellgo MG-1 ti pedals...you can get em w/ the ti axle for 60$ on ebay, and they are 301g/pair vs 310g/pair for the twenty6's... PO1NTs Podium pedal is lighter and thinner than the Wellgo. I went from years on the MG-1 Wellgo to the PO1NTs, and noticed the difference in feel. I run the longer pins front and back, they will destroy your shins/calves if they get the chance though.

also, superstar has pedals w/ ti axles that weigh like 275g/pair...and are roughly like 150$ i believe...comes in an assortment of colors and diff colored pins (if you like that look).

2) kcnc seat post instead of the thompson. it's lighter, and cheaper. for a 400mm length seatpost, its 145g...cut down...we're talking about sub-100g post for under $100! awesome deal...SDG I-Beam if you want to save weight. Best seats and psts I've found, and lightest, and cheap compared to anything else close to their weight.

3) running ghetto tubeless can help you shave 1-300g/rim depending on what type of tube you had in there prior. less rotational mass, and very cheap to convert.823s for the win. Anything lighter will fail. I'm running an AAtom lab Pimp lite though at present, seems quite tough, and cheap. Will 823 it if/when it dies.

4) those easton carbon bar's are suppose to be extremely strong and very light. i see the pros/cons of running them, with the cons just being that there is no indication of when they'll break...when they fail, they snap. When alu bar's fail, they bend. which would you prefer? And if you cut the alum bars down to 750mm like the easton's, they will weigh within 50g of the carbon bars..[/quote] This is a very broad statement that shouldn't be made IMO. Have you ever seen it with your own eyes? Aly bars can snap without warning also. I have snapped carbon bars, and not aly ones, but I'd still not say it's fact. I've had mates have aly ones snap. I do think bars are the wrong place for carbon due to tube size constraints, and the risk a company can make them shady(this goes for any material, but there's more history/knowledgable manufacturers behing ally).
 
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downhillracer

Turbo Monkey
Jan 28, 2005
1,230
0
Sammamish, WA
The pivot frame is not the lightest in the world but it does ride amazing! I am running mine with an angleset slacking it out to 63 degrees (which i personally love)
 

downhillracer

Turbo Monkey
Jan 28, 2005
1,230
0
Sammamish, WA
smaller rotor on the rear, don't need a 200mm on the ones unless your 200+lbs IMO.
I run a 180mm on the rear at 160lbs no worries.

An you can probably get a lighter wheelset for less depending on your weight/style, i.e Flows on Hadley/Hope/DT hubs.
flows on hadleys is a win!
 

norbar

KESSLER PROBLEM. Just cause
Jun 7, 2007
11,346
1,587
Warsaw :/
What shock are you running? If rc4 than you can get away with a 2.75 progressive or rcs spring.
Also atlas cranks are sligtly lighter.
For stem I'd go with 77 designz. It's actually quite sturdy when you look at it live and it weights 100g.(I think that is on steel bolts)

Also 2011 prerunners are a bit heavier but still imho better as the suggested welgos and superstars are magnesium.
For the rear derail you can try something for road cycling. I use sram rival which is lighter than the x.0 and more sturdy.


Also Im not sure if it's out already but Morgaw was supposedly to have a super light seat/post combo.
 

norbar

KESSLER PROBLEM. Just cause
Jun 7, 2007
11,346
1,587
Warsaw :/
quote=drastic.;3640293]my few suggestions..




4) those easton carbon bar's are suppose to be extremely strong and very light. i see the pros/cons of running them, with the cons just being that there is no indication of when they'll break...when they fail, they snap. When alu bar's fail, they bend. which would you prefer? And if you cut the alum bars down to 750mm like the easton's, they will weigh within 50g of the carbon bars.. This is a very broad statement that shouldn't be made IMO. Have you ever seen it with your own eyes? Aly bars can snap without warning also. I have snapped carbon bars, and not aly ones, but I'd still not say it's fact. I've had mates have aly ones snap. I do think bars are the wrong place for carbon due to tube size constraints, and the risk a company can make them shady(this goes for any material, but there's more history/knowledgable manufacturers behing ally).
Actually most wide alu bars are made from 7075 alu which doesn't bend either ;)
 

CBJ

year old fart
Mar 19, 2002
12,860
4,154
Copenhagen, Denmark
I have the twenty6 prerunner Ti and they are super sticky and light. Bi haven't broke them yet but only had them for a month. I think given a choice again I would go for the point one because they are pretty close in weight and a lot cheaper. But if you got he dough and want the bling, go for it.
I have the previous version and its been running strong since 1998. Also great company to deal with with great service.
 

al-irl

Turbo Monkey
Dec 9, 2004
1,086
0
A, A
I'd go with the normal point one stem, I don't trust ti bolts in the stem the weig saving is not worth the risk of your bars coming loose. If you want light wheels I'd go flows on hope pro II. Have a look at the truvative descendant cranks to save a bit more weight.
 

trap121

Monkey
May 26, 2011
136
0
smaller rotor on the rear, don't need a 200mm on the ones unless your 200+lbs IMO.
I run a 180mm on the rear at 160lbs no worries.

An you can probably get a lighter wheelset for less depending on your weight/style, i.e Flows on Hadley/Hope/DT hubs.


I'm 150lbs and about 5'5
 

norbar

KESSLER PROBLEM. Just cause
Jun 7, 2007
11,346
1,587
Warsaw :/
New straitline pedal with an alu platform is supposedly 330g on a steel axle, less on the ti. Think about it.
 

trap121

Monkey
May 26, 2011
136
0
This is the XO build that pivot offers for the Phoenix. Most of the parts you guys mentioned swapping off my original list are on xO build.

Out of the XO build, what would you guys change for durability and weight? It might be cheaper to get the complete build and change individual components.

XO Build

PHOENIX DH
FORK FOX 40 RC2
HEADSET CANE CREEK ANGELSET
REAR DER SRAM X/O
CHAINGUIDE E-13 CHAINGUIDE
REAR SHIFTER SRAM X/O
BRAKES AVID CODE R
CRANKS SRAM DESECENDENT GXP83 36T
BAR GRAVITY LIGHT 800mm
GRIPS PHOENIX Lock On
STEM GRAVITY DIRECT CONNECT
POST GRAVITY LIGHT
SEAT WTB VIGO RACE
CASSETTE SHIMANO CS-5700, 10-SPEED 11-28
WHEELS DT SWISS EX1750 150MM REAR
TIRES KENDA NEVEGAL 2.5 FREERIDE
SIZE L, M, S
 

dw

Wiffle Ball ninja
Sep 10, 2001
2,943
0
MV
This is the XO build that pivot offers for the Phoenix. Most of the parts you guys mentioned swapping off my original list are on xO build.

Out of the XO build, what would you guys change for durability and weight? It might be cheaper to get the complete build and change individual components.

XO Build

PHOENIX DH
FORK FOX 40 RC2
HEADSET CANE CREEK ANGELSET
REAR DER SRAM X/O
CHAINGUIDE E-13 CHAINGUIDE
REAR SHIFTER SRAM X/O
BRAKES AVID CODE R
CRANKS SRAM DESECENDENT GXP83 36T
BAR GRAVITY LIGHT 800mm
GRIPS PHOENIX Lock On
STEM GRAVITY DIRECT CONNECT
POST GRAVITY LIGHT
SEAT WTB VIGO RACE
CASSETTE SHIMANO CS-5700, 10-SPEED 11-28
WHEELS DT SWISS EX1750 150MM REAR
TIRES KENDA NEVEGAL 2.5 FREERIDE
SIZE L, M, S
That's very close to how my prototype was built last summer and it was in the 37's with heavier hubs )Hadley / EX823) Go for it, you will love it!
 

norbar

KESSLER PROBLEM. Just cause
Jun 7, 2007
11,346
1,587
Warsaw :/
Tires and Wheels on that build have to go.
Also I'd take straitline over lg1+ on any day. Weight for the 32-36 is almost identical and the backplate on the 'line is thicker. Not to mention a full bash.
 

dw

Wiffle Ball ninja
Sep 10, 2001
2,943
0
MV
Tires and Wheels on that build have to go.
Also I'd take straitline over lg1+ on any day. Weight for the 32-36 is almost identical and the backplate on the 'line is thicker. Not to mention a full bash.
The LG1+ backplate is 5mm thick at it's thinnest and 8mm thick in some places.. The straitline is more than 8mm thick??! WHY?

I have been running the same LG1+ for 2 years with no problem. I think he will be fine..