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ironhorse sunday and a smoked rotor got ???

bullcrew

bullcrew

3 Dude Approved
Dec 8, 2004
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I'm dude playing dude pretending to b another dude
So im riding a ironhorse sunday for fun and to get a handle on different suspension s and feel.

Here's the problem first day at the mtn the brakes were fi e swapped pads to metallic and first half a run down the mountain the next day the brakes cooked the fluid and had NO brakes s co ng through the woods and steeps. Had to stop every 1/3 down and cool them without water it sizzled when off the caliper.

These were avid elixir cr's with 180mm rear rotor (been running this size rear for years no issues).
So I swapped breaks to formula the ones and I sanded the rotor to bear metal got rid of the glaze and took it out again. 1/2 down brakes had major fade and the rotors were sizzling.

Is this a issue with airflow to the rotor on this bike?
Is it a issue with the way the suspension acts under load and rocks with the suspension moving
Is the rotor possibly cooked beyond use and never had to run a 203day but now im looking to upside. This is the first time on this bike and I've had this issue with 2 different brake systems.
 
S.K.C.

S.K.C.

Turbo Monkey
Feb 28, 2005
4,096
25
Pa. / North Jersey
bullcrew said:
So im riding a ironhorse sunday for fun and to get a handle on different suspension s and feel.

Here's the problem: first day at the mtn the brakes were fine swapped pads to metallic and first half a run down the mountain the next day the brakes cooked the fluid and had NO brakes comming through the woods and steeps. Had to stop every 1/3 down and cool them without water it sizzled when off the caliper.

These were avid elixir cr's with 180mm rear rotor (been running this size rear for years no issues).
So I swapped breaks to formula the ones and I sanded the rotor to bear metal got rid of the glaze and took it out again. 1/2 down brakes had major fade and the rotors were sizzling.

Is this a issue with airflow to the rotor on this bike?
Is it a issue with the way the suspension acts under load and rocks with the suspension moving
Is the rotor possibly cooked beyond use and never had to run a 203day but now im looking to upside. This is the first time on this bike and I've had this issue with 2 different brake systems.
Click to expand...
Definitely not the frame... I used to glaze pads on my Sunday but that was only because I was riding super steep trails that weekend and was scared out of my mind. :D

Were you using Sintered-Metallic pads? Typically Sintered-Metallic pads don't usually heat up or retain heat the way Organic pads do...

Hmmm.

1) Were you riding a trail you normally ride?
2) If yes, were you using all of your regular braking zones on the trail?
3) If yes, again, but the system heated up glazing the rear rotor - I'd check the caliper/frame/rotor/hub interface.

Sounds like you might have:
1) Brake tabs on the frame that need proper facing
OR
2) The Avid's might have some caliper issues. It's possible the pistons are not retracting fully back into their bores after being activated. If that was the case and you then transferred the smoked rotor from brake sytem #1 to brake system #2, then it's possible the damaged rotor in turn adversely effected brake system #2.

In other words: Damaged component from faulty system #1 was transferred to system #2 (most likely in proper working order) and caused issues.

Check the pistons in the Avid calipers and then replace the rotor. Once deposits impregnate themselves into a rotor surface like that it's pretty difficult to snad them out w/o removing a LOT of material. Throw a fresh new rotor on there and see how it all comes together.

Hope this helps!

If it is none of the above - Elixr's are notorious for trapping bubbles in the MC. Take the brakes off the bike and re-bleed the system.
 
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bullcrew

bullcrew

3 Dude Approved
Dec 8, 2004
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Is the motul synthetic 5.1?


No we were killing it lol super super steep drops big rocks etc. Not a trail we normally ride but the pads i swapped to were metalic and thats when it all went to hell.

I sanded all marks off the rotors and slapped formula the ones on and its still doing it, ive ridden 180mm rotors in high heat ice cold huge nasty descents etc. Not had an issue but im thinking i may have smoked the rear rotor permanently. Im ordering a 203 and going up to a high temp 5.1
 
karpi

karpi

Monkey
Apr 17, 2006
904
0
Santiasco, Chile
when switching to new pads, keep the same compound, because, like SRAM tech's said, you can loose up to 30% of braking power when switching pad compound since the rotor sustains a lot substance of the pads themselves (or something like that, I remember reading from the new rotors their briging out). Just try a new pair of pads and new rotors, if that doesnt work, try new oil and metal braided hoses, if that doesnt seem to work... well, lets just say murphy isnt your friend! hahah
 
bullcrew

bullcrew

3 Dude Approved
Dec 8, 2004
8,908
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I'm dude playing dude pretending to b another dude
karpi said:
when switching to new pads, keep the same compound, because, like SRAM tech's said, you can loose up to 30% of braking power when switching pad compound since the rotor sustains a lot substance of the pads themselves (or something like that, I remember reading from the new rotors their briging out). Just try a new pair of pads and new rotors, if that doesnt work, try new oil and metal braided hoses, if that doesnt seem to work... well, lets just say murphy isnt your friend! hahah
Click to expand...

Ill slap a new rotor on and stock formula pads thats the other thing i dont know what generic pads are on the ones.
 
S

Slater

Monkey
Oct 10, 2007
378
0
I'm having much the same problem after switching from organic to sitered pads on my Codes. Ran this rotor for 3 years with organics and the power is worse, and lever pressure required is greater. Have sanded the rotor and pads twice now to no avail. Just wish there were another way to figure out of rotors are indeed the problem without spending $100 on a new pair. Are the cheapo ebay rotors any good?
 
bullcrew

bullcrew

3 Dude Approved
Dec 8, 2004
8,908
2,571
I'm dude playing dude pretending to b another dude
Alright got motul 6 series, new pads (organics cause its dry here) and a new 203 rotor today. Ill bleed them in the am with motul and go see if they heat up bad.


Apparently a rotor can be ruined with excessive heat and even grinding it wont allow it to dissapate heat properly.

Couldnt find 660 so went 600 not much temp difference dry/wet

 
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Sandwich

Sandwich

Pig my fish!
Staff member
May 23, 2002
21,080
5,999
borcester rhymes
I've been using saint 810s, factory pads, pentosin fluid, alligator serrated rotors on a Sunday for three years now and I just need to change pads now. I would say, based on my race times, that I'm pretty heavy on the brakes. No problems with brakes here.
 
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