When i say it wont tighten or undo, it will actually I mean whist turning it during the video...
James
The Official Iron Horse Sunday / DW-Link Tech. & Tuning Section
- Thread starter S.K.C.
- Start date
When i say it wont tighten or undo, it will actually I mean whist turning it during the video...
James
Put a wrench in the other side, and then hold one side and loosen the other (both standard thread)
If one is already out, grab a socket smaller than the axle and tap it out towards the hex head side. On mine, one bolt was stuck and the other came loose. I gave it a solid whack with a hammer and the axle slid out with the other bolt and cap still stuck in it.
If one is already out, grab a socket smaller than the axle and tap it out towards the hex head side. On mine, one bolt was stuck and the other came loose. I gave it a solid whack with a hammer and the axle slid out with the other bolt and cap still stuck in it.
no no no no I aint trying to get it out.. I am trying to eliminate play but it is fully tightened and it spins round as u can see... What I am asking is this normal or should it not spin ???
to be honest, I'm not sure. One side of mine was fully cinched down, the other could be loosened. I think mine might be bottomed out now. Maybe try filing down the axle? Maybe somebody else can help the both of us.
hey guys, mine do spin when i try to turn it even when there is no play. you do have to tighten it up like hell though. short answer: spin is normal
Looking through 202 pages cumonnn giveus a clue of page number !!
AndySti, the bits you have quoted is that good advice ??
Cheers
Cheers
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Alright boyos, looking for a bit of help. I'm wanting to replace the countersunk screws that bolt into the shock pins, the chainstay pivot etc. as mine are getting a bit chewed up. I'm looking to get them from a fixing and fastener site rather than pay an extortionate amount from a bike shop, but the problem is my knowledge of bolts is pretty limited. I think the third bolt down on this page is what I'm looking for, M6 bolt, 12mm length and 10.9 grade steel which I think is decent:
http://www.fastfixdirect.co.uk/code/navigation.asp?fType=fasteners&MainCategoryID=19&ProductCategoryID=424&PageID=17
However, because the bolts are countersunk and they match up with the rest of the hardware on the frame, I don't know if I need to be more specific with the dimensions of the bolt; width of the head, angle of the countersunk bit? Or, are these things generally standard throughout the fastener industry? It's not a huge amount of money blown if they turn out to be the wrong thing, but who wants 200 bolts they can't use?
Cheers for any help
http://www.fastfixdirect.co.uk/code/navigation.asp?fType=fasteners&MainCategoryID=19&ProductCategoryID=424&PageID=17
However, because the bolts are countersunk and they match up with the rest of the hardware on the frame, I don't know if I need to be more specific with the dimensions of the bolt; width of the head, angle of the countersunk bit? Or, are these things generally standard throughout the fastener industry? It's not a huge amount of money blown if they turn out to be the wrong thing, but who wants 200 bolts they can't use?
Cheers for any help
yo mark,
when I replaced mine, they were a direct fit. There might be a slight amount of variance; I think mine stick out a little, but less than a mil. The angle was the same and the width was the same and everything else.
I couldn't find the upper shock pin bolts, I don't know if those are custom or if I gave up looking, and I couldn't find the seat stay link bolts, as mine were in great shape and didn't need to be replaced so I gave up looking.
My local hardware store had 10.9s in just the right size, and when I reassembled it I used anti-seize rather than loctite. So far, things have been pretty good but YMMV whether you want set and never touch again, or easy removal should you need it.
I can probably grab a photo of mine if you would like to see it, but from my experience, they're all the same.
when I replaced mine, they were a direct fit. There might be a slight amount of variance; I think mine stick out a little, but less than a mil. The angle was the same and the width was the same and everything else.
I couldn't find the upper shock pin bolts, I don't know if those are custom or if I gave up looking, and I couldn't find the seat stay link bolts, as mine were in great shape and didn't need to be replaced so I gave up looking.
My local hardware store had 10.9s in just the right size, and when I reassembled it I used anti-seize rather than loctite. So far, things have been pretty good but YMMV whether you want set and never touch again, or easy removal should you need it.
I can probably grab a photo of mine if you would like to see it, but from my experience, they're all the same.
Sandwich, thanks for the reply. That is good to know that standard hardware shop bolts fitted. After posting I found this site here with specs for dimensions:
http://www.roymech.co.uk/Useful_Tables/Screws/cap_screws.htm
It looks they have to fit within certain tolerances like you say. Those dimensions are for British Standards but I'm sure if your American bolts fitted into a Taiwanese frame then it'll be alright.
I use some regular teflon based bike grease on all my bolts, never had a problem with them backing out and occasionally they sieze slightly, never felt the need for Loctite myself.
http://www.roymech.co.uk/Useful_Tables/Screws/cap_screws.htm
It looks they have to fit within certain tolerances like you say. Those dimensions are for British Standards but I'm sure if your American bolts fitted into a Taiwanese frame then it'll be alright.
I use some regular teflon based bike grease on all my bolts, never had a problem with them backing out and occasionally they sieze slightly, never felt the need for Loctite myself.
Just putting this out there. Ive got two sundays sitting around since I got my V-10 that I havent really put much use. One of them is just extra parts but Im thinking of selling the front and rear triagle because I dont really need the backups anymore. If anyone is interested in picking one of them up let me know and I wont bother posting them up. Got a 16 and 17" front triangle and the rear.
Took the sunday out to the mountain today got 6 solid runs and came to the conclusion this bike rips. In and out of trees drifting on dollhead rocks over log jumps and drops and pushed it harder and harder with no worry of being out of control.
It corners amazing and the thing i really noticed was the pedals were neutral and no locking up with the suspension in the rocks.
Has a great center sits low and with the angleset helped out on the stupid steep chutes and drops.
Great bike im impresed.
It corners amazing and the thing i really noticed was the pedals were neutral and no locking up with the suspension in the rocks.
Has a great center sits low and with the angleset helped out on the stupid steep chutes and drops.
Great bike im impresed.
Damnit, ive always wanted a sunday. Anyone want to sell a small frame for cheap?
Hello all, just put together an 08 factory deanodized it and polished it up. I"m having issue with using an m970 medium cage and 12-27 dura ace cassette (9 spd) and the derailleur body in the smallest 12t cog is hitting the bottom of the chainstay and causing noise on the smallest of bumps. I"ve deadened the sound a bit using some rubber mastic tape. Any ideas if an m970 medium cage shadow would have better clearance or just get a saint and forget about it. Thanks!
Dunno. I have a saint and 11tooth and no problems...
yay I'm helping
yay I'm helping
yeah, i might just get the saint since i have an xtr trigger and don't want to have to have to start all over for sram stuff.
I'm really, really happy with my saint derailleur. I use 8 speed and it's generally very quiet and hyper-reliable. I've heard people complain of wobbly bushings and mine has a negligable amount of play, but I'm otherwise super pleased.
Also, I was going to cheap out, but the saint was the only one at the time that had the cable routing. Everything else needed the loop or was SRAM.
Also, I was going to cheap out, but the saint was the only one at the time that had the cable routing. Everything else needed the loop or was SRAM.
I have an issue regarding play in the upper link on my 2006 Sunday. I have replaced both rocker plate bearings. I have also just obtained a brand new rocker shaft which has not solved the play. I can still feel play at the rocker shaft when i place my finger underneath. It seems like the frame is worn opposed to the shaft/bearings? Has anyone else had this issue? Would a solution be just to fill the gap with loctite 641 until i could get a higher tolerance shaft machined? I want a play free Sunday!! Any help would be greatly appreciated
Just wondering are there any common areas on the Sunday for cracking? I just got back from Morzine and have found a small crack in the powdercoat. It's just on the seatube where the bottom of the round portion of the seatube meets the webbed sideplates of the seat mast. It's pretty much just follows the weld where these meet. Is this a common one? I think it's only in the powdercoat at the minute from flex (feeling very optimistic) and hoping that it won't get any worse. Just wondering if anyone else has experienced this one?
hey mang
from internet testimony, you don't have to have it custom tuned, just set it up right. Udi, Saruti, Socket, and I think one other guy in this thread have all said the same.
from internet testimony, you don't have to have it custom tuned, just set it up right. Udi, Saruti, Socket, and I think one other guy in this thread have all said the same.
let me know how it goes...i'm working on procuring one, but i am le broke.
whoa where dang
Udi you wouldn't have happened to have rode with a guy on a White modraker summun from northern Ireland in morzine a couple of weeks back would you? If so that was my little brother. It just clicked there when I was Reading my way through this massive thread and I saw a pic of a red Sunday from the username Udi. My brother had been giving me the low down on his last couple of days in morzine as I had left a couple of days earlier to get back to work and he mentioned riding with "Udi on a red Sunday as well as one or two others guys, it just clicked there when I saw the red sunday. Small World.
When someone has finished dremelling their link out care to take some pictures of it? a mate has just blown his vivid for the 2nd time out here in whistler and I'm gonna try convince him to get a 2nd hand rc4 and bust out some link modding.
been here just under 2 months and my frame hasn't developed any play, still on the same set of bearings too. doing the bearing retainer trick between the dw axle and link that udi described seems to have been well worth the effort!
been here just under 2 months and my frame hasn't developed any play, still on the same set of bearings too. doing the bearing retainer trick between the dw axle and link that udi described seems to have been well worth the effort!
For sure, Kyle was it?
Fvckin sweet man, your bro's an awesome rider and I had great fun chasing him down some of the steep morzine tracks I'd never seen before.
Small world indeed!
If it's for an RC4 I'd be cutting both braces out completely. The little brace at the very front has to go for most shocks, and for the RC4, so much has to be taken out of the curved brace in the middle that it's not worth risking shock damage to leave a tiny section of it in there. A friend of mine tried that and broke his shock, I've been running it with the braces taken out for many hard months in the alps and no dramas.
Hey,
I've had a quick scan through this thread but I couldn't really find the answer I'm looking for.
At the start of the year I got my Sunday (Including the linkages) anodised and ever since there has been play coming from the top shock pin area. The bike was play free for the first week after anodising, but it progressively got worse.
I tried new DU-bushings, reducers, and shock pins which removed most of the play but it eventually came back.
Does anybody have any ideas as to what might be causing the play and how I might be able to fix it?
Thanks,
Tom
I've had a quick scan through this thread but I couldn't really find the answer I'm looking for.
At the start of the year I got my Sunday (Including the linkages) anodised and ever since there has been play coming from the top shock pin area. The bike was play free for the first week after anodising, but it progressively got worse.
I tried new DU-bushings, reducers, and shock pins which removed most of the play but it eventually came back.
Does anybody have any ideas as to what might be causing the play and how I might be able to fix it?
Thanks,
Tom
They could have stripped a smidge too much in the etch tank and the build up of type II can be worn down a small amount so the build up of oxidizatio could have worn down.
Anyone got any ideas? Im going to measure the frame tonight to see if its an ovalised or not
Bearing retaining compound (loctite or whatever brand you use) is going to be your best bet for the short term. Otherwise have it measure and have a custome part machined to have less tolerances. This is why its a bad idea fiddling with paint and anondizing. It will eat away and change tolerances.
Yeah if you stripped it and ano,d it then I pretty well answered your question but thanks for overlooking the obvious.
I did annodizing mil spec and I know the process that's why I replied the etch tank can quite literally disentigrate a part.
I guess i need to assess if it ovalised or not. If so then a high tolerance pin might not sort it full? Might require reaming slightly to ensure the hole is a perfect circle again?
If anyone has any advice much appreciated!
You have all the advice you need. What you do not have is any info as to the cause (bearing, axle, bore etc)...but in the end, it does not matter.
If there is enough room to have something else machined, your frame has serious problems. Get some proper retaining compound, apply correctly and it will last MUCH longer than the bearings, prevent corosion, prevent metal on metal wear, prevent losening...AND solidify what seems to be grosely mis-fit parts.
IMO it should be done to every frame at every pivot bearing before it is ever ridden. Makes problem prone pivot interfaces infinitely more reliable and durable.