canada
Angleset problem
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you should have weekly updates on your Angleset status...or maybe even start a Twitter account for yours....just to keep everyone in the loop on how its working
It is actually more informative than what you can't resist adding everytime something is posted in this thread. Your's did not work, you and others have made that perfectly clear. That status will not change so really there is no need to update.
Now if someone states everything is fine but 6 mos later things go to crap, that speaks to both initial issues as well as durability, and or, long term. So yeah, I find that interesting. I'm in the same boat as P, mine has been in my Sunday for 2-3 mos. I thought that I heard this reported noise once and then I tightened the star nut and have not heard anything since, even after riding Attitash this past weekend which has a lot of rocks and roots compared to my usual hill.
Certainly there has been issues and the product is a bit of a gamble. It works for some and I am sure Cane Creek is working on something as we speak. Would I recomend it?..That depends on their return/refund policy.
I hear all the WC guys will be running 68* head angles next year anyways...
Now if someone states everything is fine but 6 mos later things go to crap, that speaks to both initial issues as well as durability, and or, long term. So yeah, I find that interesting. I'm in the same boat as P, mine has been in my Sunday for 2-3 mos. I thought that I heard this reported noise once and then I tightened the star nut and have not heard anything since, even after riding Attitash this past weekend which has a lot of rocks and roots compared to my usual hill.
Certainly there has been issues and the product is a bit of a gamble. It works for some and I am sure Cane Creek is working on something as we speak. Would I recomend it?..That depends on their return/refund policy.
I hear all the WC guys will be running 68* head angles next year anyways...
So I had mine come loose after a couple of months of trouble free performance. This wasn't a phantom clicking/popping that couldn't be easily located or resolved, it just plain old came loose and felt and sounded like a loose headset.
I loosened everything off, made sure everything was seating properly then cranked everything back down and re-tightened it. Didn't add any grease or anti seize but everything seems fine again. Been back to the bike park and raced it last week and it's stayed tight. The regular reducer headset I had in the frame previously didn't come loose in 2 seasons of use so it's going to be interesting to see whether this is going to be a recurring problem or whether it was just a one-off.
I loosened everything off, made sure everything was seating properly then cranked everything back down and re-tightened it. Didn't add any grease or anti seize but everything seems fine again. Been back to the bike park and raced it last week and it's stayed tight. The regular reducer headset I had in the frame previously didn't come loose in 2 seasons of use so it's going to be interesting to see whether this is going to be a recurring problem or whether it was just a one-off.
Well said, I couldn't agree more!!!
Repeatedley posting how it is fine, and nothing has changed is antagonistic and trolling at best.
If you have some feedback that adds to the discussion sure, otherwise you needn't post at all, and can keep your disdain in your head.
I had problems, despite being a superior mechanic, although have not in some time. I have had to reseat it 3x in response to noise/clicking and it has held up well, but is clearly not perfect.
Rice has added feedback he has gotten from other VERY qualified mechanics that confirm the negative issues many have experienced.
08-09 Marzocchi forks had issues, yet many didn't experience them; would you suggest there were therefore no issues?
If you have had no problems, stating so once and then only posting again should that change would be useful and informative.
Without feedback and (GASP) criticism, things dont improve, and YES there is clearly room for improvement on this one.
So unless you are proposing a solution to those who DO have issues, or explain exactly, and specifically, what they're doing wrong other than to parrot your lack of issue is not in the slightest bit helpful or informative.
When someone posts a repetitive, asinine, mocking comment, expect a retort. (If thats not clear - I am supporting Rice, and me, and anyone else that is having an issue that doesnt appreciate being taunted.)
I'm anxious to hear a peep from Cane Creek on what is fairly apparently a widespread problem...except in Canada.
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thats a new one. that problem sounds worse then the "typical" problem
Amateur version still going amateur, hoping it eventually goes pro so I can go faster. 63.5 amateur just isn't the same as 63.5 pro.
Still silent and working flawless as well.
Still silent and working flawless as well.
I have a Jedi with an angleset which was initially quiet. Also, due to a mixture of hastiness, laziness, sloppiness, excitedness, and unpreparedness, my crown race was about a millimeter away from being fully seated.
One day, while loading my bike into my truck, I noticed that I had the same sort of noises that have been discussed here. Crown race still not seated. I suspect that it had moved just a hair, but that is admittedly just speculation. The noise wasn't too bad so I just kept riding, and nothing changed for a few weeks. I loosened the stem and snugged up the top cap a couple times but that made no difference.
Most of the trails I ride are relatively smooth dirt. Then one day I followed some friends down a long, steep, rocky, long, rooty, long, rocky trail that was really long and rocky. Did I mention it was long and also very bumpy? When I got back to my car I noticed some play in the headset, cinched down the top cap, and noticed two things:
1) The crown race was fully seated. No more gap.
2) The headset was fully quiet. No more noise.
So, here's one possible cause of the angleset noise: a crown race that isn't fully seated and/or isn't perfectly aligned. A ridiculously rocky steep run and a cinch of the top cap might fix that for you. It worked for me.
Good luck.
It took a few atttempts to get mine noise free. After twenty + days of Plattekill abuse not a peep. Happy to be one of the lucky ones.
Lyrik 170 solo air in a Mojo HD with an AngleSet at -1*. Had serious gimbal knock sounds for first few rides, now only occasionally and under hard hits. I thought it was my fork this whole time and just got an RA to send it back for warranty repair. Found this thread. Don't need to send the fork back now. Will tear down the headset and re-grease and re-assemble.
Bottom line - gimbal knock has decreased to only hard hits over a period of 6 months but has not gone away.
Bottom line - gimbal knock has decreased to only hard hits over a period of 6 months but has not gone away.
looks like you got the "chump" edition....
I've been struggling to get my tapered angleset in my transition bandit not to knock when I hit curb sized rocks head on. No idea why this worked but this morning i tried loosening everything slightly while the bike was hanging upside down. Tightened the steer cap, flipped it over and straightened the stem and torqued it down. Went and hit my "test rock" a couple times...no noise. Only time will tell.
Me, and my two pals have got them, but only one of us, installed them, so far.
He says they make some noises, too, but he was just on local mini-DH track. I told him to ride more, as I think they have to bed (?)
Yeah, the lower bearing isn't sealed super well and is exposed to mud and water thrown by front tire. It can be done in a week of bike park riding in wet conditions and/or power washing. I think you can prolong the life of it by packing it with good water-resistant grease. But on the other hand, Cane Creek replacement bearings are quite cheap, I think I paid 6 euros for one ($8). The same bearings are also used on many of their other headsets.
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Where can you get these bearings? Cane creek does not have a strong or reliable presence in my country. Also curious if I can get angleset parts online.
their website has all the replacement parts for all their headsets
Thread resurerection
I finally made the move and ordered an Angle-Set for my Nomad. It showed up over the T-day break and now that I have a few rides on it I wanted to share how it went.
Install:
Pressed in the 1.5deg cup and the crown race and got to work (installed on a Lyrik). The install was pretty standard until it was time to tension the top cap.
Got the bolt nice and tight but noticed that it wasn't affecting steering. The gimbals had settled in a bit causing the top cap to bottom out on the stem. After switching up my spacers I got the tension right (just a little tighter than for a normal HS as recommended).
Everything was feeling good so I took it on a spin round the block. I did a few gnarly curb hucks then I decided to do a sweet stoppie. Just as I was pulling the rear wheel off the ground I heard it, the dreaded klunk!
I hopped off the bike and took a quick look at the head set. I think the gimbals must have settled into the cups further because now there was a few mm of space under my stem. After taking the bike back to the garage and tightening it once again everything seems to be working fine.
Ride:
I have four rides on the new setup without hearing a thing (no gnar DH yet only light shuttling and XC). I will report back after I take it down Chaparral a few times and beat it up a little. Loving the slacker angles on the Nomad so far.
PS. This may be a topic for the shop but I'll ask it here anyway. What is your method for getting correct tension on a head set? My method is as follows. Pick the bike up and lean it to one side. The wheel should flop over, tighten the top cap until the wheel starts to flop over slowly then back off a little to get resistance free steering. I've seen lots of people use the front wheel against a wall and rock the handlebars technique. Any other procedures out there?
I finally made the move and ordered an Angle-Set for my Nomad. It showed up over the T-day break and now that I have a few rides on it I wanted to share how it went.
Install:
Pressed in the 1.5deg cup and the crown race and got to work (installed on a Lyrik). The install was pretty standard until it was time to tension the top cap.
Got the bolt nice and tight but noticed that it wasn't affecting steering. The gimbals had settled in a bit causing the top cap to bottom out on the stem. After switching up my spacers I got the tension right (just a little tighter than for a normal HS as recommended).
Everything was feeling good so I took it on a spin round the block. I did a few gnarly curb hucks then I decided to do a sweet stoppie. Just as I was pulling the rear wheel off the ground I heard it, the dreaded klunk!
I hopped off the bike and took a quick look at the head set. I think the gimbals must have settled into the cups further because now there was a few mm of space under my stem. After taking the bike back to the garage and tightening it once again everything seems to be working fine.
Ride:
I have four rides on the new setup without hearing a thing (no gnar DH yet only light shuttling and XC). I will report back after I take it down Chaparral a few times and beat it up a little. Loving the slacker angles on the Nomad so far.
PS. This may be a topic for the shop but I'll ask it here anyway. What is your method for getting correct tension on a head set? My method is as follows. Pick the bike up and lean it to one side. The wheel should flop over, tighten the top cap until the wheel starts to flop over slowly then back off a little to get resistance free steering. I've seen lots of people use the front wheel against a wall and rock the handlebars technique. Any other procedures out there?
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Thread lives again...
I just spent a couple hours working on the "Orbit Option" today after the owner complained of noise. The FSA design seems better than Cane Creek, as it doesn't have gimbals per se. FSA actually made a gimbal shaped bearing! So, there's less parts to the headset...
As I've mentioned elsewhere in this thread, I've had mixed luck with Anglesets, but I can saw without a doubt that the FSA shares the same issues. Customers bike made almost the exact same noise...
Funny note: The headset came stock on a 2012 Giant Glory 2. The factory actually installed the headset backwards, giving the bike a steeper HA from stock!?! I didn't measure it, but laughed out loud when I saw what they did...
I sold the other Sunday with the angleset never made noise and then the current angles in this Sunday has a -1 top and bottom no noise at all. Had it out and cleaned reinstalled no clicks.
I originally had a click in the first one pulled it greased it over tightened it then back it off a smudge no noise at all. Installed this one exactly that way from the get go no noise at all.
I originally had a click in the first one pulled it greased it over tightened it then back it off a smudge no noise at all. Installed this one exactly that way from the get go no noise at all.
OBB said:
Really. Have you read the thread? Or just the last page. Noting the people with issues all but universally have dual crown forks.
I have had clicking, but not since the last assembly, I wouldnt be shocked to have to deal with it again.
Whats with compulsion to troll and repeat nonsense. You havent had problems, lucky you - please elaborate on how to 'properly setup' an angleset?
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Why are you so happy..........
I was just updating since the thread was revived that no issues on 2 so there is hope that they aren't all bad but since my input seems to bother you than I'm sorry for responding with so.e time under belt and disassembly.
Maybe he's using an Avalanche Angleset dampenatorimbal.
Full year on an angleset and onto a second one on a new frame. No click, no knock and no issues. Then again, I grease and re-grease often and use headlock to keep sh*t tight on the frontend.
Pardon, I was failing at quoting the post 2 above yours from OBB. My bad... I fix now.
So I noticed something this weekend, not sure if it's old news.
I picked up a new 1.0 ZS49 angleset cup for my project. Three things are different. There are two "marks" on the inside of the roundy-bit surface. The thickness of the exernal portion is larger. The height of the internal portion is larger too. My old version was one of the first on the market. The new one I picked up this weekend but don't know it's age.
I wonder if these changes are to address the clicking issues?
I picked up a new 1.0 ZS49 angleset cup for my project. Three things are different. There are two "marks" on the inside of the roundy-bit surface. The thickness of the exernal portion is larger. The height of the internal portion is larger too. My old version was one of the first on the market. The new one I picked up this weekend but don't know it's age.
I wonder if these changes are to address the clicking issues?
That is interesting... I was thinking of getting an EC bottom for my V10 as Im running a 180 fork atm, just to raise it up a lil bit. But I have to get another 1.5 gimbal, 1.5 bearing and conversion crown race for a straight 1-1/8" steerer. :|
On the lighter note, Ive never had noise or rattle issues with the Angleset. Its been awesome so far.
On the lighter note, Ive never had noise or rattle issues with the Angleset. Its been awesome so far.