So I'm thinking about buying a road bike.

MtnbikeMike · Sep 16, 2011

Don't buy a bike online. They tend to be a good value in terms of components, but the frames generally suck (cheap carbon) and you won't know whether it fits you or not until it's too late. And since you are just starting out, you don't know what you're and a geometry chart on a website will mean nothing to you. Go to a bike shop and test ride a bunch and see what feels the best. You really can't go wrong with any reputable brand; as long as it fits, it's a good bike.

You may want to look into the more relaxed-fit bike lines, and each brand has one (Specialized Roubaix, Felt Z-series, Cannondale Synapse, Trek something or other, etc). They have a more upright position, a smoother ride, and more stable handling characteristics than the racing-oriented bikes.

I would also recommend getting a bike with a compact crank and a wide range cassette (11-25, 11-28). That setup has basically the same high gear as a standard crank setup would, but has lower lows so you can spin up hills.

As for grouppo, SRAM Rival or Shimano 105. You don't need anything fancier unless you want it. Both are solid workhorse groups.

IH8Rice · Sep 16, 2011

budget?

Secret Squirrel · Sep 17, 2011

I'm with mtbmike on this one. When I got into roadie/commuting I bought an "entry level" bike with a decent frame and upgraded when things started breaking/wearing out. Depending on make/model, you shouldn't need an entirely new toolset. I think I added a BB tool that now works with both mountain and road bikes...

Roadie advice: Don't get hit by a car or have your front tire go flat in a 90 degree left turn at 30mph (apparently, when the metal rim meets pavement, you actually have negative traction. This effectively catapults you into the ground at a greater velocity than normal). It hurts. Trust me.

If you grab a solid frame, you've got no worries as far as roadie stuff goes.

And I still don't consider myself a roadie even though I log close to 600 miles a month commuting on it. So there.

sianspheric · Sep 17, 2011

Have you thought about a cyclocross bike, rather than a roadbike? I find the geometry a little more comfortable (even compared to the "comfort" road bikes like the Roubaix's, Synapses, etc). They typically come with knobbies, but you can easily swap them out for slicks. I had a Brodie Romax for 10 years and road it on everything from pavement, dirt/gravel roads, to buffed singletrack mtb trails.

Heisenberg · Sep 18, 2011

sianspheric said:
Have you thought about a cyclocross bike, rather than a roadbike? I find the geometry a little more comfortable (even compared to the "comfort" road bikes like the Roubaix's, Synapses, etc). They typically come with knobbies, but you can easily swap them out for slicks. I had a Brodie Romax for 10 years and road it on everything from pavement, dirt/gravel roads, to buffed singletrack mtb trails.

This person is clueless. Don't listen to them.

Road bikes are far less subjective than mtbs. They all accomplish the same goal while feeling within a rough 10% of each other.

With that said, pop into the local LBS that likes you (discount, see), explain that you're looking for a more Roubaix-oriented bike (phonetic: roo-bay, so you don't get lolled at) in your price range. If they're not total idiots, they'll be able to help you out. If you can get a solid discount, your budget should net you something with 105/Rival level shifters and a fairly portly, yet solid, set of wheels. That's all you need when it comes to component spec. Seriously. Aluminum, carbon, steel...really doesn't matter at the $1.5-2k complete pricepoint.

What matters a whole lot more is fit. You spend a lot more time in the same positions, as well as pedaling, on a road bike than you do a mountain bike. By its very nature, a poorly fitting road bike will make you downright miserable after an hour in the saddle. If the shop has a reputation for being a good place to get fitted, perfect. If not, ride the bike you want and THINK fits for a couple hours. If it makes you hurt, it probably doesn't fit (no, it's not that you're not "used to" road riding). If the shop isn't clueless, they should be able to change components/frames depending on what you describe is going on.

Going along with that, saddle choice is key - I'm a huge fan of the Specialized line, specifically the Romin. It took me six months of demoing saddles and riding in misery before I found it. DEMO LOTS OF SADDLES. Your taint and junk will thank you. Find one that doesn't make you numb or sore.

Good luck - road riding can be rewarding and fun with the right mindset. It's a different beast than MTBing, but it can make you seriously FLY on the dirt if you develop both skillsets and maintain the fitness for both.

HAB · Sep 19, 2011

A cyclocross bike looks kinda like a road bike with fatter tires but the geometry, gearing, etc, are different. It doesn't sound like that's what you want. Everything Heisenberg said is spot on. If you're on a half way decent bike that fits great you'll have a blast. A $10k bike that doesn't fit well will make you miserable.

ire · Sep 19, 2011

I'm always preferable to cross bikes due to the versatility. I ride a lot of trails and gravel on my training bike, so I use a cross bike. A good fit is priceless and most guys at a bike shop don't know sh!t. If you have back, or neck, issues I would ask around to find someone in your area that is good at doing fittings. A bad fit can make the bike miserable to ride.

Wumpus · Sep 19, 2011

Cross bikes usually have cantilever/disc brakes to allow for fatter tires. A typical road caliper won't accept a tire bigger than 28c.

The Trek 2.1 with 105 is a decent bike(H2 geometry)

Felt has some nice stuff too. The Z85 is right around your price range.

Both of those have 'relaxed'(roo-bay) geometry.

ire · Sep 19, 2011

BIGHITR said:
Ire, I looked at several bike sites, specialized, trek, etc. I noticed the road bikes look almost identical to the cyclocross. What's the difference? Just the tires? I want this bike just to ride road after work to keep up cardio. Every weekend for the past six weeks, it's rained when I'm off. But it's sunny all week. I can't get to the woods after work. It gets too dark early now. If I can walk out my door and get on a road bike, I can still get my cardio in before dark. What's the difference? Other's said geometry but they all look the same. Lance Armstrong type tour de france, leaned all the way over the bars kind of stance. If you showed me a DH or XC I could see the difference. I can't see a difference in the pics. Although some cyclocross frames look more aerodynamic.

Visually the only difference you'll notice is the brakes. The frame have different geometry and are typically built different. If you bought a carbon road bike, and a carbon cross bike, from the same company they would likely lay the carbon up differently due to the different demands. A cross bike will allow for larger tires and you'll be able to ride gravel/dirt assuming you have tires that will hold up. Keep in mind that my advice is tainted towards cross since that is my primary discipline. Suspect Device will tell you to get a road bike that will allow 30c tires and to use that (maybe he's right, like I said, I'm a cross nerd). Cross bikes can typically be had for cheaper as well (component spec will be less, but it will be a solid bike). If you're willing to buy used you can snag a bike at a good price. Used cross bikes are kinda like buying used DH bikes....cheap.

RUFUS · Sep 19, 2011

ire said:
Visually the only difference you'll notice is the brakes. The frame have different geometry and are typically built different. If you bought a carbon road bike, and a carbon cross bike, from the same company they would likely lay the carbon up differently due to the different demands. A cross bike will allow for larger tires and you'll be able to ride gravel/dirt assuming you have tires that will hold up. Keep in mind that my advice is tainted towards cross since that is my primary discipline. Suspect Device will tell you to get a road bike that will allow 30c tires and to use that (maybe he's right, like I said, I'm a cross nerd). Cross bikes can typically be had for cheaper as well (component spec will be less, but it will be a solid bike). If you're willing to buy used you can snag a bike at a good price. Used cross bikes are kinda like buying used DH bikes....cheap.

This. If you are more interested in a cross bike, Golden Bike Shop here in Golden, CO has some Scott cx bike demo's for around $800. Solid builds and a great bike. I bought on off them for a cross trainer before the season started and loved it. Let me know if you are interested. I would be more than happy to purchase and ship it for you. I am about 15 minutes from them.

http://goldenbikeshop.com/demo-bike-sale/

Listed under road bikes. A $1600 bike for half the price because a few people domo'ed it around Golden's beautifully paved roads.

golgiaparatus · Sep 20, 2011

If you want a good ride and you're not looking to build a 15lb machine... look at steel. Gives the best ride for the price IMO. Soma Makes the Shoothie and the Smoothie ES, great frames for about $400... I ride a Smoothie myself. Love it.

As for components... try Shimano 105... In MTB terms, that equates to LX. (Ultegra = XT, DuraAce = XTR). Get a good fork by a manufacturer you can trust and a solid wheelset.

Yes, tools are the same and working on the bike is basically the same. I built up my bike with the same tools that I use to build MTBs... with the exception of a funky proprietary Shimano spoke wrench. But that's only because I have funky shimano factory wheels.

Edit: Have to echo what everyone is saying about fit. Fit is everything on a road bike... If you are going to build your own bike or buy used... first get fitted and see what size frame you will likely need (hang on to the measurements)... then build it/buy it, then you may need to get fitted again. It's crazy that just a 1/2 inch (or less) of stem length, bar drop, or saddle adjustment can make worlds of difference on a road bike.

loco-gringo · Sep 21, 2011

A speed concept is an awful idea, unless you want a TT or tri bike. I suspect the Tiagra 10spd will be nice. I bought some Z85s to have a sale on, but could only get 51 and 54 frames. They have sold for $1000. A perfect deal at that price.

I hate to agree with the Tulsa monkey, but Soma Smoothies are a great budget steel frame.

ire · Sep 23, 2011

I wouldn't buy carbon due to the cost. I would stick with a CX or "relaxed" geo road bike as was suggested. Personally, I would get a fitting and then start hunting used. If you know your numbers, you could even buy off ebay. A bike that goes for $2k could be had a year used for $1k (for cross bikes that is). A good fitting will cost between $100-200. You could still come out ahead if you were fitted and bought used.

People tend to think their lightly used road bike is still worth retail, so it's harder to find good deals. Stay clear of triathlon/time trial bikes.

JRogers · Sep 25, 2011

Don't get a tri or tt bike, which is what the Speed Concept is. Makes no sense for you. Aside from the handling, fit and geometry issues, the guy does have a point in that the brakes are on the outer bars and the shifting on the inner...not very convenient for all around riding.

Also, if budget is a concern, I wouldn't discount 105 components. I have a bike with some Ultegra and some 105. Granted it's a few years old, but 105 has only gotten better. I even have one shifter 105 and one Ultegra. I can't really tell the difference between them. Others might disagree, but I find 105 to be comparatively better than LX on the mountain side. Also, the stuff will last longer naturally because you put less wear on things on the road.

So I'm thinking about buying a road bike.

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