Time for another "vs" thread. Today: 303rdh vs Driver 8

I borrowed a Driver 8 one time and wanted to set it on fire after about 30 seconds. Geo felt really weird, suspension was less than stellar, and the fit was crap. That said, I'm a skinny guy who's generally pretty smooth, so maybe you'd love it.

Id get the new 303 rdh,at a target price of 3099$ I think it was for a handmade american product if you ask me is amazing.

this didn't exist 5+ years ago

8 pivot bearings is "utter simplicity"?

Hacktastic said:

8 pivot bearings is "utter simplicity"?

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All the bikes I've owned for the past 10 years have been the same, it's not like they need constant maintenance. SC do a pretty good job of building bikes that you don't spend half your life pulling to bits to repair IMO.

Don't get the driver. Very akward feeling bikes. I really don't understand why they haven't learned from vp-free and see that there is no need for an 8 inch, heavy duty do it all bike with an in between geo and strangely high bb for no apparent reason.

DirtMcGirk said:

Simpler than the car system?

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Nope. And that 'car' system is what's used in heavy industry worldwide. It's a much stronger, longer lasting set up than a ball bearing (which in reality is one of the worst bearing types for a pivot). The ball bearings on the 303 will wear in their 5 deg ish movement much faster than that rail and slider. One good thing about the SC however, is the grease ports.

atrokz said:

Nope. And that 'car' system is what's used in heavy industry worldwide. It's a much stronger, longer lasting set up than a ball bearing (which in reality is one of the worst bearing types for a pivot).

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Except in practice the rail car fills with dust/dirt and feels horrible after a few runs - from what I've felt anyway. Meanwhile the standard ball bearings used in the majority of frames run smoothly with minimal drag (at least at the seat of the pants or wheel, unlike the rails I've felt which feel rough even just pushing down). Yeti might have improved this but I suspect that either way there will be sacrifice between sealing and friction that won't beat a more conventional setup.

I think the humble cartridge bearing while being the unhappy cousin on paper, actually works the best in practice - mostly because when sized adequately works absolutely fine, and has the added benefit of usually only destroying itself. No wearing out separate races like needle bearings, no sealing issues like rails, and cost next-to-nothing to replace and restore to a new standard.

That said, SC tend to undersize their bearings a little and thus they die quicker than they should, although I think this is addressed or at least improved on the V10C. Speaking of which, skip the Driver 8 and look at one of those instead?

Udi said:

Except in practice the rail car fills with dust/dirt and feels horrible after a few runs - from what I've felt anyway. Meanwhile the standard ball bearings used in the majority of frames run smoothly with minimal drag (at least at the seat of the pants or wheel, unlike the rails I've felt which feel rough even just pushing down). Yeti might have improved this but I suspect that either way there will be sacrifice between sealing and friction that won't beat a more conventional setup.

I think the humble cartridge bearing while being the unhappy cousin on paper, actually works the best in practice - mostly because when sized adequately works absolutely fine, and has the added benefit of usually only destroying itself. No wearing out separate races like needle bearings, no sealing issues like rails, and cost next-to-nothing to replace and restore to a new standard.

That said, SC tend to undersize their bearings a little and thus they die quicker than they should, although I think this is addressed or at least improved on the V10C. Speaking of which, skip the Driver 8 and look at one of those instead?

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The few I have tried feel just fine after a season or two of use. They must be spec'ing different bearings, or using one with a better seal set up. The machines they typicaly run in have quite a bit of metal particulates floating around in coolant, and they can handle that just fine so a bit of dirt shouldn't pose a problem. They DO need to be flushed every so often to keep them fresh, so perhaps that is the real issue you felt.

Two very different bikes, of course. Don't worry about durability or maintenance of the Driver - those things are bomb proof. Focus on whether you like the geometry and suspension.

Just get a TR 250 and be done with it. Good geo, simple design, durable, and it comes in yellow.

Otherwise, perhaps think about an angleset in the Driver 8 (or maybe even short shock it like the VPF ?)

jackalope said:

Just get a TR 250 and be done with it. Good geo, simple design, durable, and it comes in yellow.

Otherwise, perhaps think about an angleset in the Driver 8 (or maybe even short shock it like the VPF ?)

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But does it come in rootbeer?

I do agree that a Transition would be a good call, but I'd probably go with a TR450. They're stiff and burly and simple and ride really well. Seems like an ideal bike for a fatty who likes to smash into stuff.

take my opinion for what it's worth, I just bought a 303 rdh so I don't have much time on it(going to snowshoe next weekend so I can say more after that trip) and I only rode a Driver for one day while in Santa Cruz.

From my limited experience the Driver was flat out the worst feeling bike I have ever thrown a leg over. The bike had a dead feeling in the suspension, didn't turn well, and i just didn't like the geo. I tried to set the suspension up to my liking. I have ridden vpp bikes before and they felt fine, don't know what it was about this bike, but it was terrible. The only good thing about the bike is if you like to huck - it does soak up the landing better then most 8 inch bikes. Probably more of a true freeride bike. I just couldn't stand the fact that I didn't get any feedback from the bike at all. I'm not a smooth rider either - probably somewhere between plow and smooth.

In contrast so far I really like the 303. Super stiff and just rails turns. Turns better then any DH bike I've ever had, and I've had a few (sunday, demo 8, morewood, intense m1/m3, session). I don't mind the maintenance on the rail as I like to work on the bike anyway.

I think i remember talking to you at a snowshoe race years ago(2006?). Guess you moved. For an East coast bike I'm really liking the 303 rdh. Good luck deciding

Udi said:

Except in practice the rail car fills with dust/dirt and feels horrible after a few runs - from what I've felt anyway.

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2 years on my RDH and the rail car is still butter smooth. I wipe it down and push in some grease every ride or two and that's kept it butter.

HAB said:

I do agree that a Transition would be a good call, but I'd probably go with a TR450. They're stiff and burly and simple and ride really well. Seems like an ideal bike for a fatty who likes to smash into stuff.

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Well, since you mentioned it, I agree



Just thought the OP might appreciate something with a "lighter" build, altho I think the TR250 frame weighs the same as a TR450.

But if you go with a 303 RDH, I think you can still get a killer deal on one thru Go-Ride (sizing might be an issue if you're a pinniped). May have to replace the DHX 5 tho.