Relative void in high end clipless pedals (for gravity riding)
- Thread starter Wa-Aw
- Start date
It's not an issue. Pedals are notoriously beyond over-tightened, so as long as you're putting them on with an Allen, you'll be able to get them off with an Allen.
The Shimano trail pedals are rad.
That's correct! Sooooo stupid
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most high end pedals use a allen to install them. it saves some weight on the spindle by not having a surface for a 15mm wrench to fit on
i constantly cracked and broke the plastic frame on the 646. no issues at all on the trails.
Even more stupid is how they eject you when you tag a rock hard.That's correct! Sooooo stupid
I don't understand how so many people miss this fatal design flaw
i use the acids on my trailbike... in my experience, its only a "potential" design flaw. never smacked a pedal hard enough that i got ejected. YMMV.
You win the Irony Poster Boy award for November 2011 at SpankPoseMonkey!
Last time I looked in a dictionary irony didnt mean being a negative douche. I suggest googling it.
btw. You are an idiot. Oh sorry that was me being ironic.
whats ironic is that you dont know what irony is.
Disagree... Kind of at least. Yes, they should help guide your foot back into the clip, but some times that isn't gonna happen, and in those cases you need to have some sort of platform to stand on vs standing on a really narrow SPD mechanism.
I think the "guiding" quality you're looking for is less of a pedal specific design, and more of a shoe choice. Most of the downhill specific shoes use a soft sole with minimal tread and soft rubber; a design that's more conducive to platform style spd pedals by offering comforming grip once clipped in, but do little to guide your cleat into the mechanism. For this reason I've always personally used very entry level shoes, the ones that look like hiking boots. They offer a deep tread channel thats made of soft rubber so they guide the cleat nicely, but are bulky enough to offer protection, and soft enough to provide grip if you can't clip in the first time (unlike XC shoes).
By raising a channel on the pedal, all you would be doing is providing a place for mud to collect, and creating more platform space required to protect it. The XTR's are one of the few pedals that offer additional cleat support on the sides, which made them feel like a much larger pedal while cornering, and offer a softer release point. There are very few changes I would make to them if I were creating a Saint pedal.
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That "potential" design flaw reached it's full potential, after the 3rd time I reched for my old SPDs
RE: CRANKBROS: A narrow, free-spinning, 4 sided clip mechanism in the middle of a 2 sided full sized platform pedal seems to be a flaw to me. Sometimes it rotates half way around and the cleat deflects off and does not clip in. Even if it does clip in the spring is so weak I couldn't tell if the cleat was in until I pulled up on the pedal and clipping out feels random and soft. Switched to Time Z's and have can step directly into and clip out of the pedal with an audible and tangible pop. Durability and quality is great.
Right . . . except that the 647 is about 200g heavier than the XTR 985.
647----568g
XTR----398g
Only 170g.
For 170g more you get a tough DH pedal.I run the 424 on my AM bike and the 647 on the DH.
424---472g
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You would be wrong on that. None of them are getting paid to run them. IN fact there are a few top three riders who are paid very well to run Shimano yet they don't.
I like how mallets work. Heck I'd run them if someone would replace them after every run!
Fatal? I've only ever had that happen when trail riding, never on dh. And I don't think it's ever happened with my mallets, either - only primarily on the regular eggbeaters without a cage.
And when you tag a rock hard with flat pedals, your feet don't get knocked off?
I've done it a bunch of times with Mallets. Granted, I do ride an 8" travel bike with a sub 13" BB, so I hit pedals more than a lot, but still.
Yea, fatal, they eject you in the rough on rare occasion, my shimanos NEVER do that
It's not the same, sure if you hit hard enough yes you can, but it doesn't require that much force to pop you out, simply your body weight will do it if you hit the pedal just so. I can get those springs to spread out with my hands
maybe you are all riding way faster than me, but my crankbro pedals have all held up fine. even the pair that i've done zero maintenance, have held up fine for 2 seasons now.
they release when i need them to, and stay clipped in when the going gets rough.
i do like the Time pedals. their engagement is good, but their platformed clipless pedals suck.
they release when i need them to, and stay clipped in when the going gets rough.
i do like the Time pedals. their engagement is good, but their platformed clipless pedals suck.
considering its you, i'm still going with user error
Considering the mallets do work well, you would be lucky if you got a non-lemon. I think CB stuff is good on paper but I've just haven't had luck with it. The new mallets just make me more warry about longevity though.
If you have multiple pairs of shoes and pedals on muliple bikes you gotta pick a brand and stay with it....durability has kept me from making the "Full switch" to Crank Bros.
647's are good pedals. Just think they could be better from Shimano, it isn't just One thing.
Maybe XT's are the Shimano answer.....that's what i'm going to go with for DH.
647's are good pedals. Just think they could be better from Shimano, it isn't just One thing.
Maybe XT's are the Shimano answer.....that's what i'm going to go with for DH.
not necessarily... I have a pair of flat 661's that i use w/ my crank bros pedals on my trail bike. i have a pair of specialized mtb shoes that are setup with spd for my xc bike. I use either on my "road" bike, depending on what pedals I have readily available to throw on (though I prefer spd - the road bike spends most of its time on a trainer)
I wear xc shoes sometime's for DH.....and got other random shoes i'll wear on different bikes.
Cranks Bros aren't SPD i thought......maybe i'm mixed up....
correct - crank bros are non SPD. but they use the standard SPD cleat mount spacing to ensure compatibility with shoes.
I do ride like a hack! I ride a ton of northstar (14 days in the last half of last season) and spend most of my time there on the rough stuff, so you tend to tag pedals and derailers on a regular basisconsidering its you, i'm still going with user error
It's probably time for bushings, if they are the same as the old ones, they only last like 6-8 months, they are tiny
I've been running mallets since the day they came out. This has never ONCE happened to me - or anyone I know who is running them.
FWIW, i don't use clips for dh.
i could see how it could potentially happen. in 2 years of use, hasn't happened to me. :knocks on wood:I've been running mallets since the day they came out. This has never ONCE happened to me - or anyone I know who is running them.
That's because you never ran them on the Draco.
I noticed yesterday that I even dented the BB cup on it. Anything anywhere near the crank/bb area on that bike gets smashed to ****.
It's time for you to dump that pedal sparker and get a real bike...
No BB shell dings on this gnarwagon
No BB shell dings on this gnarwagon
You've just made me realize how much I need to machine myself some Ti pedals. The resulting sparkage would be epic.
But yeah. Things that are dented/ smashed up on that bike, besides the obvious stuff like pedals, and ends of crank arms:
-BB cup
-both ends of the lower link
-the entire bottom side of the left crank arm
-the spindle end of the left crank arm
That rebuild video looked pretty easy and I doubt you would have to do it more than once a season.
It is, and you don't. I still like the way SPDs feel better, they don't have the same accidental clip out issues, and I haven't bent any spindles on Shimano pedals.
No. There's no reason at all to torque pedals tight enough that an allen isn't enough.