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XT hub seized...wat do?

Sandwich

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May 23, 2002
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My XT hub has seized. I think it's an M775. Was a good hub before, had a little bit of freehub play. Now it no spinny.

What do I do, since I can't seem to get inside of it with regular tools? Is it worth bringing to a shop, and how much can I expect to pay?
 

syadasti

i heart mac
Apr 15, 2002
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If I remember correctly, the unit is sealed and you just replay the freebody when it dies? Is it under warranty?
 

Smelly

Turbo Monkey
Jun 17, 2004
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hub won't spin or the freehub body won't spin?

If it's the freehub body, those just get replaced. Requires taking out the axle, undoing the bolt that holds on the freehub, and putting on a new one. If the hub itself won't spin, it's possible that a cone or locknut wiggled loose, and bearings fell into the hub and are getting stuck between the interior of the hub body and the axle. Not common, but I've seen it happen on a real wreck of a bike.

But who knows. Either tear it apart or have the shop do it. XT freehub bodies aren't too expensive (under $50 iirc), and unless the shop charges crazy prices, tearing apart a hub is a quick, simple job.
 

sanjuro

Tube Smuggler
Sep 13, 2004
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The only advantage to Shimano hubs is the freehub is easily replaceable, and many shops will have a spare.

I doubt the sealed bearings which the axle spins on is frozen, right?
 

syadasti

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I doubt the sealed bearings which the axle spins on is frozen, right?
Don't you work at a bike shop? Shimano still uses cup and cone bearings. As long as you keep them adjusted they will last a long time.
 

Sandwich

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May 23, 2002
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hub won't spin or the freehub body won't spin?

If it's the freehub body, those just get replaced. Requires taking out the axle, undoing the bolt that holds on the freehub, and putting on a new one. If the hub itself won't spin, it's possible that a cone or locknut wiggled loose, and bearings fell into the hub and are getting stuck between the interior of the hub body and the axle. Not common, but I've seen it happen on a real wreck of a bike.

But who knows. Either tear it apart or have the shop do it. XT freehub bodies aren't too expensive (under $50 iirc), and unless the shop charges crazy prices, tearing apart a hub is a quick, simple job.
The hub axle itself won't spin. I was literally JRA, and the thing stopped. I thought my brake had pumped up and locked or something, but no dice. The freehub turns freely, clicking away. The axle WILL NOT rotate, even cinched up tight then turned via the rim- the axle eats away at the dropouts. I removed the cassette and rotor, and the freehub side axle/nut will rotate right off, exposing the threads, but the brake side will not move. I don't see any flats for a wrench, and I'd rather not grip'n'rip with vicegrips.

909-946-6780
do they have a website?
 

jonKranked

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laugh all you want, but i have a hadley that's a decade old and still rolling as good as the day i bought it. most i ever got out of a shimano was 4~5 yrs.
 

syadasti

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You need two different size cone wrenches to adjust the cone bearings (forget what size).

Toll free number is better - 800 423 2420
 

Smelly

Turbo Monkey
Jun 17, 2004
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out yonder, round bout a hootinany
The hub axle itself won't spin. I was literally JRA, and the thing stopped. I thought my brake had pumped up and locked or something, but no dice. The freehub turns freely, clicking away. The axle WILL NOT rotate, even cinched up tight then turned via the rim- the axle eats away at the dropouts. I removed the cassette and rotor, and the freehub side axle/nut will rotate right off, exposing the threads, but the brake side will not move. I don't see any flats for a wrench, and I'd rather not grip'n'rip with vicegrips.
You can always rely on JonKranked to not have a useful contribution to a thread.

Sandwich, you need to pull off the end cap with a 5mm allen before you can access the cone wrench flats. Beats me how this happened, but it sounds like your bearings are facacta'd. You'll want to tear it apart, and use a little magnet wand to get all the bearings out, then check the cones and races for pitting. I'll bet you have a cone that's totally smushed.


http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/SI/Deore-XT/SI_3CZ0A_002/SI_3CZ0A_002_EN_v1_m56577569830621150.PDF
 

jonKranked

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You can always rely on JonKranked to not have a useful contribution to a thread.

Sandwich, you need to pull off the end cap with a 5mm allen before you can access the cone wrench flats. Beats me how this happened, but it sounds like your bearings are facacta'd. You'll want to tear it apart, and use a little magnet wand to get all the bearings out, then check the cones and races for pitting. I'll bet you have a cone that's totally smushed.


http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/SI/Deore-XT/SI_3CZ0A_002/SI_3CZ0A_002_EN_v1_m56577569830621150.PDF
and you can always count on smelly to be at the center of an all male bukakke
 

Sandwich

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May 23, 2002
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You can always rely on JonKranked to not have a useful contribution to a thread.

Sandwich, you need to pull off the end cap with a 5mm allen before you can access the cone wrench flats. Beats me how this happened, but it sounds like your bearings are facacta'd. You'll want to tear it apart, and use a little magnet wand to get all the bearings out, then check the cones and races for pitting. I'll bet you have a cone that's totally smushed.


http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/SI/Deore-XT/SI_3CZ0A_002/SI_3CZ0A_002_EN_v1_m56577569830621150.PDF
thanks brodiglione. I'd like to make sure my hub isn't totally boned before taking it to a shop, as I don't have a good LBS. I don't know where you'd put a 5 mil yet, and I can't open that link for some reason...yay adobe.
 

Sandwich

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laugh all you want, but i have a hadley that's a decade old and still rolling as good as the day i bought it. most i ever got out of a shimano was 4~5 yrs.
dude of course a $300 hub is going to be better than the used POS that I have...but you don't seem to understand that that involves building an entirely new wheel, potentially buying new spokes, and buying a new rotor....all for a bike that I picked up for under $1000 as it is.
 

Sandwich

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thanks brodiglione. I'd like to make sure my hub isn't totally boned before taking it to a shop, as I don't have a good LBS. I don't know where you'd put a 5 mil yet, and I can't open that link for some reason...yay adobe.
Great news everybody!

Using smelly's tech doc, and a shedload of torque, I freed the axle using a 5mil and a ratchet. Now it turns freely, without any suggestion that it was stuck at all. There's still 1-2mm of play in the freehub. The hub itself turns freely but has some notchiness. No idea if that'll show up on trail, but what are the chances my races are effed up, and if they are, is there any cure besides replacement of the whole hub?
 

jonKranked

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also - based on the issue you described, frozen to play, short of pitted races you may have ovalized bearings. if you have access to a set of calipers - pull 3 or 4 bearings. measure across the 3 major axes. if theres major variation replace em. if not, replace them anyways just to be safe and prevent the races from getting damaged.
 

motobutane

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Apr 27, 2010
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Last year my XT hub locked up and everyone was like "Can't be those hubs are great blah-blah-blah" XT hubs are junk and they will lock-up after limited use.
 

Sandwich

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Ha, this is my XC hub. My ultra cheapo Azonic hub is still turning smoothly (on my DH bike).

Hmm...I need a set of cone wrenches to be able to get into it. Maybe I'll just cough up the dough and see what the LBS has to say.
 

Jim Mac

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May 21, 2004
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Ha, this is my XC hub. My ultra cheapo Azonic hub is still turning smoothly (on my DH bike).

Hmm...I need a set of cone wrenches to be able to get into it. Maybe I'll just cough up the dough and see what the LBS has to say.
PS, I have a boat load of bearings for your Azonic hub if you ever need any (6902 series). Replaced mine last yr and continued the cheap smoothness, not unlike a fine but cheap bourbon.
 

Sandwich

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PS, I have a boat load of bearings for your Azonic hub if you ever need any (6902 series). Replaced mine last yr and continued the cheap smoothness, not unlike a fine but cheap bourbon.
I might take you up on that at the end of the season...

OK so the bearings turn OK when loosened. Need a cone wrench to get inside and take a look. I'm guessing the spacing was off and the thing loosened up.
 

rockofullr

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Jun 11, 2009
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Buy some cone wrenches for sh!t sake (if you wanna save your self some trouble buy one of those handy vice grip axle clamp thingys too). XT hubs require regular maintenance to keep in working order. You should tear it down and rebuild it at least once per season if you ride it regularly.

The good new is that parts are cheap and easy to find!
 
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Sandwich

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Well thanks for the help peep gang. Ended up taking to an LBS and they took it apart and put it back together. Looks like the freehub may have been loose, which jammed itself against one of the cones causing everything to lock in place. Even they aren't sure how it happened, but I've got about a 300% reduction in play in the freehub, so it was loose to begin with...it spins relatively good now, they said there was some pitting in the races but not enough to scrap it. Yey.
 

rockofullr

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Jun 11, 2009
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Well thanks for the help peep gang. Ended up taking to an LBS and they took it apart and put it back together......... they said there was some pitting in the races but not enough to scrap it. Yey.
:facepalm:

Races for those hubs are cheap. There is no reason not to replace them. Having pitted races will decrease bearing life and increase the overall ****yness of your bike.
 

Sandwich

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:facepalm:

Races for those hubs are cheap. There is no reason not to replace them. Having pitted races will decrease bearing life and increase the overall ****yness of your bike.
are you sure? I wasn't under the impression they were replaceable. Regardless it should roll for a while, until i sell it for some stupid reason I don't know yet.
 

rockofullr

confused
Jun 11, 2009
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are you sure? I wasn't under the impression they were replaceable. Regardless it should roll for a while, until i sell it for some stupid reason I don't know yet.
The cone race is easy to replace it is located under the lock nut and threads off the axle. The cup is part of the hub body so if it's pitted your stuck with it.

6 pawls, 204 points of engagement, legendary profile quality, boner city.
 

Sandwich

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ok i'm guessing it's the cup then. I told them to take a look and let me know. They would have gladly replaced it if they could have, I'm sure.
 

ZoRo

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Sep 28, 2004
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all this hub talk has me lusting after a set of profile elite hubs.
Just checked those hubs out. As a hub aficionado myself, I need to say they look amazing and sound like absolute thunder and hell. At the BMX track, you can instantly tell when people are using Profile hubs by the crazy whiny sound they make. If it wasn't for that redonculous price tag...

OH, for that XT hub, don't worry too much if it's pitted, but be vigilant about keeping it properly greased and not adjusting the cones to tight (tiny play is ok as it disappears when you tighten and close the quick release, assuming you have one)
 

jonKranked

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Just checked those hubs out. As a hub aficionado myself, I need to say they look amazing and sound like absolute thunder and hell. At the BMX track, you can instantly tell when people are using Profile hubs by the crazy whiny sound they make. If it wasn't for that redonculous price tag...
yea the price is up there... but... think about what it gets you. 6 pawls, 204pt engagement, any spacing and axle configuration you need, sweet ano colors, and US made legendary profile quality.
 

ZoRo

Turbo Monkey
Sep 28, 2004
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yea the price is up there... but... think about what it gets you. 6 pawls, 204pt engagement, any spacing and axle configuration you need, sweet ano colors, and US made legendary profile quality.
So to be sure the 135 hub can be retrofitted to fit the new 142 standard right and vice vera? That's one of the main feature I look in for rear hubs now.