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Solo air 2010, 2011, 2012. What's different?

norbar

KESSLER PROBLEM. Just cause
Jun 7, 2007
11,346
1,587
Warsaw :/
My 2010 solo air boxxer feels reasonably good but there are recent areas where I feel it could be improved upon (sitting higher in travel for example)

So does anyone know what are the differences between different years of solo air production?
 

captainspauldin

intrigued by a pole
May 14, 2007
1,263
177
Jersey Shore
(Assuming we're talking about the Boxxer WC here) I know there is a change from 2010 to 2011, if you check the SRAM spare parts/techinical drawing they show the 2010 and 2011 solo air setup. There is also a kit to convert your 2010 to 2011 solo air setup. My 2010 solo air just always felt super harsh(I'm a big dude though, so maybe that has to do with it).
 

norbar

KESSLER PROBLEM. Just cause
Jun 7, 2007
11,346
1,587
Warsaw :/
My felt very good but after I had a harsh bottom out and decided to go avalanche it somehow sits low in its travel which annoys me. I also really like the adjustability of an air spring. I'm just thinking if upgrading it might be worth it. Solo air isn't that expensive.
 

norbar

KESSLER PROBLEM. Just cause
Jun 7, 2007
11,346
1,587
Warsaw :/
New solo air has a dimple to equalize air chambers instead of the equalizing valve older solo airs had.
So I will not loose travel after every trip to a dustry bikepark? That's a good sign but I'd really want to hear about staying higher in travel. Did they do anything about it? I'd really want to try my friends air spring but it's still a prototype and a harsh one at that.
 

Commencal-guy

Monkey
Nov 25, 2007
341
0
Massachusetts, US of A
The difference in the Solo Air from 2010 to 2011/2012 and up.

The 2010 uses a wavy spring washer to achieve top out to equalize positive and negative air pressure. Which is trash. It also uses an o- ring on the Main Air piston.

The Newer 2011/2012 is a totally changed. It uses a glide ring instead of an O-ring on the main o-ring piston. Similar to the ones in air shocks. It also uses a schrader valve instead of a wavy spring washer to achieve top out to equalize pressure. Also the newer solo air design sits much lower than the older 2010 version which helps it in the mid stroke. Also you only use grease when rebuilding the newer design instead of the traditional 5cc of 5wt oil. This is why when you look at the directions on the newer Boxxer wc it simply says to grease the air piston and put it back together. However on the oil charts it still says 5cc of oil which is probably a mistake on RS part.
 

Udi

RM Chief Ornithologist
Mar 14, 2005
4,915
1,200
So I will not loose travel after every trip to a dustry bikepark? That's a good sign but I'd really want to hear about staying higher in travel. Did they do anything about it? I'd really want to try my friends air spring but it's still a prototype and a harsh one at that.
The dimple isn't on the 2011-2012 fork to my knowledge. It was introduced on the 2013 Revelation I think, so it might be implemented in the 2013 Boxxer. Don't think it would do anything to help your problem anyway.

Also the newer solo air design sits much lower than the older 2010 version which helps it in the mid stroke.
How does that particular feature help in the mid stroke?
I think the reason SRAM gave for making the design sit lower was so that the air piston no longer travels into the lower crown's clamping zone, thus reducing a stick point late in the travel.
 

norbar

KESSLER PROBLEM. Just cause
Jun 7, 2007
11,346
1,587
Warsaw :/
So what's on the 2011? I remember there was some change? Because it's either that or trying to get some cash for a dorado/2012+ bos (supposedly they are <3kg now). That being said I like my avy boxxer, I just think it could perform better in the spring area)
 

Udi

RM Chief Ornithologist
Mar 14, 2005
4,915
1,200
For 2011 they moved the entire spring assembly lower as mentioned above, changed the piston design, and changed the equalisation system to use a schrader valve instead of a wavy washer. I've had both and IMO there isn't a huge difference in spring characteristics, the newer setup is just a little more reliable.

Honestly for what you're looking for, I think your best bet would be a coil spring. Even if the spring rate isn't exactly right, if you can get one close enough, it would likely still benefit you. I found going from the air fork to coil that it became a lot less dependent on damping to hold you up in the mid stroke, which makes for a more supple setup that is also far easier to tune.

I personally found it well worth the weight sacrifice, which I don't even notice.
 

norbar

KESSLER PROBLEM. Just cause
Jun 7, 2007
11,346
1,587
Warsaw :/
I will have to think about it. BTW. Have you tried the dorado? It gets great results so I wonder if manitou air spring is a bit more refined.
 

Udi

RM Chief Ornithologist
Mar 14, 2005
4,915
1,200
Nope, would like to do a run on one. Not a fan of the inverted chassis though.

Ultimately though an air spring will always have certain limitations imposed on it. I know Fox has a new air spring on the cards so it'll be interesting to see what they do as well.
 

baca262

Monkey
Aug 16, 2011
392
0
i agree with udi - your best bet would be to calculate the spring constant you need, measure the spring dimensions and get one made. air spring will never have the midstroke support of a coil spring.

eg. for me it would be 31kg/6cm sag = somewhere around 5,1kg/cm (50/50 weight distribution)

btw, making 2 springs is still cheaper than getting a original one where i live.
 
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My 2010 solo air boxxer feels reasonably good but there are recent areas where I feel it could be improved upon (sitting higher in travel for example)

So does anyone know what are the differences between different years of solo air production?

I have the same fork and am curious at to whether or not you have the mid valve option from Avy as my air boxxer with avy cart does not have your problem?
 

Udi

RM Chief Ornithologist
Mar 14, 2005
4,915
1,200
Doubly strange because the MiCo damper in stock guise (without heavier valving) doesn't have a whole lot of compression damping on tap anyway.

Maybe you could try valving the Avy cart a little firmer?
 

norbar

KESSLER PROBLEM. Just cause
Jun 7, 2007
11,346
1,587
Warsaw :/
Doubly strange because the MiCo damper in stock guise (without heavier valving) doesn't have a whole lot of compression damping on tap anyway.

Maybe you could try valving the Avy cart a little firmer?
I have the 2010one that supposedly had more.

Yeah I will have to think about reshimming my avy.
 

bustanutley

Chimp
Jul 23, 2008
10
0
You should really just do like the others have said and put a spring in it. Once you pull the of the drop stop which you don't need with the ava cart, put in a race top cap you end up with a fork that is only like 100g heavier than a stock WC and a much better ride.
 

norbar

KESSLER PROBLEM. Just cause
Jun 7, 2007
11,346
1,587
Warsaw :/
The thing is I like the tuning possibilities. I will first try to reshim it. Though I'm surprised how many people sudenly don't like solo air when looking at the forums most people do.
 

baca262

Monkey
Aug 16, 2011
392
0
just an idea - how much air volume are you running in your damper leg? stock is very low volume, the conversion to open bath might have opened it up considerably.
 

norbar

KESSLER PROBLEM. Just cause
Jun 7, 2007
11,346
1,587
Warsaw :/
just an idea - how much air volume are you running in your damper leg? stock is very low volume, the conversion to open bath might have opened it up considerably.
To be honest I have no idea how to even check that. Though it's 2am and I'm still working so my brain is a bit sore.
 

baca262

Monkey
Aug 16, 2011
392
0
just unscrew the top caps and with the forks bottomed check the oil level (the cartridge should also be bottomed), if there's a large gap, try filling it up. the default setup would behave as if you had somewhere between 1 and 3cm of air gap when bottomed.

and try not to have to work at 2am :D