you talking about removing the PAR system? cause that was obviously garbage
2010 Marzocchi 888 Evo tuning thread
- Thread starter Kanye West
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- ideally ideal
Looks like the Fox adjuster was just a temporary solution on brooks bike. This is Ragot's bike at windham. Also Air if I'm not mistaken.
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Problems that made the air cart unpopular:
Too progressive
Leaked
Wound down
Solutions:
Remove PAR
Put a little oil on both sides of the piston
Add tension to the detent springs or use the '09 locking travel adjustment knob
Since doing these things my air cart has been trouble free for 4 seasons and like an air shock I find the adjustable spring and progression (amount of oil in air cart) useful.
Of course they are too soft for his riding style as well as his weight. He's a 180 lbs ex 4X racer on a medium spring. It really aggravates me that this awesome fork is rated down due to a bad setup. Sadly this is more the rule than an exception when it comes to tests in German mags.
It took me almost 6 months to get my hands on an x-firm spring for my V2 thanks the local importer. Those "experts" actually told me they didn't have a single request for a firm or x-firm spring while almost everyone I know who rides hard and owns a 888 is looking for a firmer spring. Further I was told that I should use VA
and preload to compensate (At 205 lbs !!!!!!). 
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Yeah I know. From experience the Rock Shox springs are way firmer than the weight recommendations indicate so it most probably was the stock spring in the 888 that put him off. I mean he's nearly 10kg heavier than me and rides much more aggressive. Probably also caused by the fact that he is used to the feel of a boxxer and of course he had the fastest run on the bike of his sponsor.
the last German "review" mentioned here had the same problem with it being undersprung
i think that was taken from the same one...
freeride mag, the one that put brendog on the title with a picture from last year "because it looked cooler"
freeride mag, the one that put brendog on the title with a picture from last year "because it looked cooler"
These tests are just stupid.
Also the only positive thing of this mag are the pictures. I can't stand how it's written.
Like the "Bravo" or something.
Also the only positive thing of this mag are the pictures. I can't stand how it's written.
Like the "Bravo" or something.
soo, i should just get the next rate up?
I'd go with at least the firm (6.5 kn) spring. 40 clicks of preload??? I didnt even think that was possible. compression all in and VA almost? No, that doesn't sound normal.
You don't test bikes for a German mag by any chance?
On a different note; Does anyone have a step by step for VA chamber removal?
You don't test bikes for a German mag by any chance?
On a different note; Does anyone have a step by step for VA chamber removal?
Did you try removing the O-Ring first? Because that would give you an idea of how it would feel taking the va out completely.
yeah, i didnt think the preload knob had that many turns in it.
going up in spring rate is the ideal way of doing it but since i couldnt/didnt get a new spring, i upped the oil levels fairly high
For the guy asking about removing the VA chamber, look in this thread around december 2011 or something. I had some posts asking about it and got a good explanation. Be sure to add some oil though, it will bottom out HARD if not. Better to just leave it in and add some negative pressure if you want it to be more linear.
edit: page 44
edit: page 44
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When I removed the top part of the VA chamber, I need to unscrew the top of the cart to remove the remaining black part. It's kind of hard and I don't want to damage it, just to make sure, do I have to unscrew it counterclockwise?
Thanks!
Everything is threaded normally, so yeah counterclockwise.
Hey guys please forgive me for not skim reading all the pages - can someone update me on what's best practise for 2012 888 evo v2 (none ti) They are feeling pretty sweet- I don't seem to be getting the last inch of travel but I have a 5.5 spring and most things wound on... so I'm going for a 6.5 (im 12.6stone) and will wind things off.
Apparently the CRC team take a part out? the VA? and add more oil - is this still advisable? what about oil seals ect - anything else that can be removed?
Apparently the CRC team take a part out? the VA? and add more oil - is this still advisable? what about oil seals ect - anything else that can be removed?
No take oil out in 10ml steps and measure travel right. The 200mm mark is actually like 2 cm lowar than the min-markings.
Thanks RE the measuring - will do - was the no in regards to taking anything out of the forks?
I would consider taking the va out only as a last resort. Heard it can bottom out harshly without it and in turn you'll need more oil. For a test you simply can remove the big O-Ring from the VA-chamber.
Try reducing the oil level in the damping leg by 10ml and do a test drive till you come to a level where you can use va effectively - worked for me.
Try reducing the oil level in the damping leg by 10ml and do a test drive till you come to a level where you can use va effectively - worked for me.
I tried the V2 without the O Ring and an extra 100 cc of oil.
At first it worked great, even though it was definitely more prone to bottom out even with the hard Fox spring, but after a few fast runs at Schladming the fork became increasingly progressive up to a point where it became harsh. Maybe this was due to the 100 cc extra oil not being enough and the air above it heating and expanding?
I am now running the x-firm MZ spring I finally received, with the O ring, 2 clicks progression, 1 click VA and it feels awesome. Plush on the first 2 in, nice and firm to the last 2 in, using full travel only in emergency mode just the way I like it....
Only took me 6 month to get it right
At first it worked great, even though it was definitely more prone to bottom out even with the hard Fox spring, but after a few fast runs at Schladming the fork became increasingly progressive up to a point where it became harsh. Maybe this was due to the 100 cc extra oil not being enough and the air above it heating and expanding?
I am now running the x-firm MZ spring I finally received, with the O ring, 2 clicks progression, 1 click VA and it feels awesome. Plush on the first 2 in, nice and firm to the last 2 in, using full travel only in emergency mode just the way I like it....
Only took me 6 month to get it right
I changed the oil in my forks and managed to goon the small brass bolt head off the cartrigde that the compression knob slides onto. Does this mean a new cartrigde or can it be replaced?
thanks
brent
thanks
brent
Impact wrench, also heard you can compress the fork and turn. I always used a impact wrench though.
^Lacking an impact wrench, have a friend push down on the handlebars as hard as they can while you loosen the nut.
unfortunately the foot nut has been damaged so an impact wrench isnt going to happen. there is heaps of oil leaking from the foot nut so the aim was just to get it off and replace it with a new one. i see why they put the groove in the nut for the o-ring it sit in but when its already a soft metal you need all the surface contact you can get!
I had trouble re-installing this nut and was only able to make it tight enough to start grabbing by holding onto the brass compression adjuster with needlenose pliers and turning the nut with a spanner. Might be something to try as it's probably a bit loose already...I've also had good luck with just putting some sideways force on the assembly and turning that way.
If the nut is buggered anyways, you could also grab on with some vice-grips and pull when turning
IMO, it's a ****ty design...how hard would it have been to cast in a rectangle down there for the cartridge to sit in or make a solid part of the cartridge protrude further allowing a wrench to gain some purchase on the thing after the nut has passed?
The teeny tiny o-ring internal to the comp cartridge is leaking on mine...
If it continues to leak, it may turn into a $427 o-ring....
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I deal with the spin by slightly tipping/binding the cartridge fully compressed + rapid twist of the socket wrench - either EVO or AVY cart.
Anyone need an RC3 EVO cart? Did someone still need the fat guy spring? I switched to the 6.5, 7.7 is too much for 205lbs (Yay me!)
Really, I know some people were having trouble finding one so here it is!
Now to find a nice #500 x 3" ti Spring
Anyone need an RC3 EVO cart? Did someone still need the fat guy spring? I switched to the 6.5, 7.7 is too much for 205lbs (Yay me!)
Really, I know some people were having trouble finding one so here it is!
Now to find a nice #500 x 3" ti Spring
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i would be real careful doing that i that is how i gooned my the one on my 55s. the small brass head does not take much to break off. and i it is a new cart to fix it onces its broken.
i take the spring out now and then fully compress the fork. seems to work most of the time.
so how is the low speed compression adjusted in the 888 2012?
with gold knob?
with gold knob?
yes indeed
I'm a bit interested in trying these forks out, as I've been on BOS Idylles for the past 3 years and fancying a change for the sake of it.
I have spent a bit of time reading some of the manuals and write ups, and I was wondering what spring do you guys recommend I use?
I weigh 82 kilograms, excluding gear so about 85 with gear. Reckon the standard TI spring that comes with the MARZOCCHI 888 RC3 EVO V2 TI would be fine?
I have spent a bit of time reading some of the manuals and write ups, and I was wondering what spring do you guys recommend I use?
I weigh 82 kilograms, excluding gear so about 85 with gear. Reckon the standard TI spring that comes with the MARZOCCHI 888 RC3 EVO V2 TI would be fine?
I run the standard with ~ 75 rideready and it's spot on. You may need a little more compression and turns on the va-knob which I turned completely out.
You also can re-shim the high-speed compression which a few other heavier guys did.
You also can re-shim the high-speed compression which a few other heavier guys did.
If you want input about shimstack-tuning for faster riders who prefer more high-speed compression look here:
http://www.mtb-news.de/forum/showthread.php?t=561881
it's unfortunately in german
oh and I didn't turn lsc out. That's about 4-7 clicks in depending on the steepness of the track.
http://www.mtb-news.de/forum/showthread.php?t=561881
it's unfortunately in german
oh and I didn't turn lsc out. That's about 4-7 clicks in depending on the steepness of the track.
Just adding my experience with spring weight here. I am about 190 lbs or so on an EVO Ti. The stock spring and oil levels were a little too soft and I was bottoming out harshly on bigger hits. I tried the next (heavy) spring and was unable to get full travel, and it felt too harsh overall even with comp damping all the way out (full -). After reading through this thread I switched back to the stock spring with 225cc of oil in the spring leg (instead of the 80cc stock level). This seems great so far - I've retained the super plush initial stroke but the fork ramps up better and resists bottoming. Thanks to those who have chimed in, this is a great thread. Love this fork now. 
thats the setup that im running. seems to be working fine for me....although im still looking for that elusive firm Ti spring to trade for. i may be in luck this week though.After reading through this thread I switched back to the stock spring with 225cc of oil in the spring leg (instead of the 80cc stock level). This seems great so far - I've retained the super plush initial stroke but the fork ramps up better and resists bottoming. Thanks to those who have chimed in, this is a great thread. Love this fork now.
Yeah, your posts were definitely helpful for me, so thanks. I was surprised at the difference between the stock spring and the next heavier. If you get a chance to try the heavier spring, do so before you buy.