Both bolts are right hand thread and screw into the axle - so yes, counterclockwise to undo them.
The Official Iron Horse Sunday / DW-Link Tech. & Tuning Section
- Thread starter S.K.C.
- Start date
Mate I did mine a few days ago but be careful not to round the bolts coz they are fragile(it should be hex nr 5 not nr4).HELP!!!!
I can't unmount this bolts on each side:
I have already unmounted the shock and but these two bolts don't come out and I want to remove the linkage, they are two bolts and a axle right? So i suppose that they should come out counter-clockwise but my hands hurt trying, they must be over tightened.
So, both bolts come out counter clockwise right? If I'm going to use all my strength I need to be sure of that.
I couldnt get the one of the screws off (this one on the drive side) though.I had to spray some lubrication oil and rust off spray and tap mine with a hammer few times
My advice is get something and just hit the screw on the other side(non drive side) a few times .When u unscrew it u will push the axle out with a hummer and wooden or plastic stick.
So I have to hold the right screw and tap the other one with a hammer, then I will be able to remove the axle without remove both screws? The screws come out counter clockwise right?Mate I did mine a few days ago but be careful not to round the bolts coz they are fragile(it should be hex nr 5 not nr4).
I couldnt get the one of the screws off (this one on the drive side) though.I had to spray some lubrication oil and rust off spray and tap mine with a hammer few times
My advice is get something and just hit the screw on the other side(non drive side) a few times .When u unscrew it u will push the axle out with a hummer and wooden or plastic stick.
Thanks a lot
GeckoES -
You need two keys, one in each screw. Turn both keys counter-clockwise, and one of the two screws will unscrew. After that you just need to remove the screw that comes undone (and the bearing cap on that side), and replace it with a longer m6 screw (most headset topcap bolts will work) - screw it in 6+ turns and then hit it with a hammer to knock the pin out the opposite side. The entire assembly is symmetrical.
Tomasis -
I've tried the bike with lower spring rates and higher compression, but have tested on a friend's bike with the opposite setup recently (25lbs higher spring rate with less compression damping) and found it had better bump absorption and more pop. I think this may be what you are looking for. Setup was RC4 with 325 spring, 6 clicks HSC / 0 clicks LSC / 130psi (roughly). If more stability is needed it is easy to add compression damping, and reduce again when it's time to have fun.
You need two keys, one in each screw. Turn both keys counter-clockwise, and one of the two screws will unscrew. After that you just need to remove the screw that comes undone (and the bearing cap on that side), and replace it with a longer m6 screw (most headset topcap bolts will work) - screw it in 6+ turns and then hit it with a hammer to knock the pin out the opposite side. The entire assembly is symmetrical.
Tomasis -
I've tried the bike with lower spring rates and higher compression, but have tested on a friend's bike with the opposite setup recently (25lbs higher spring rate with less compression damping) and found it had better bump absorption and more pop. I think this may be what you are looking for. Setup was RC4 with 325 spring, 6 clicks HSC / 0 clicks LSC / 130psi (roughly). If more stability is needed it is easy to add compression damping, and reduce again when it's time to have fun.
Udi, thanks, i will try tomorrow, but I tried today and i almost broke my breastbone, I applied so much strength on both screws and nothing happened but pain, frustration and a bended allen key. I have just put some oil on the zone, and maybe I should use the HAMMER!
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penetrating lube, like PB Blaster or even WD40, can help loosen stubborn bolts.
I believe I ended up using a blow torch on mine. I got one side out, and the other side would not budge. Finally got it out using an oversize torx head
I think its safe to assume he meant from full open. Fully closed LSC would feel terrible on a sunday
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astoria -
Yes, settings are from full open (i.e. was not running any LS comp on that setup). Really should measure adjustments the other way but I'm lazy. If you have the 325, try that setup (or similar) and see what you think. Fork setup also contributes to how much the bike pops significantly, heavy compression with low spring rate does contribute to a more 'dead' feeling.
GekoES -
Like Sandwich hinted, I'd try the blowtorch (just point it directly at the bolt and hold it there for a while, then try undoing). It can loosen up loctite and reduce the chance of damaging the hardware - also yourself / your tools.
Yes, settings are from full open (i.e. was not running any LS comp on that setup). Really should measure adjustments the other way but I'm lazy. If you have the 325, try that setup (or similar) and see what you think. Fork setup also contributes to how much the bike pops significantly, heavy compression with low spring rate does contribute to a more 'dead' feeling.
GekoES -
Like Sandwich hinted, I'd try the blowtorch (just point it directly at the bolt and hold it there for a while, then try undoing). It can loosen up loctite and reduce the chance of damaging the hardware - also yourself / your tools.
For those who may be interested - I just posted my beloved Sunday on ebay...
Very sad to see it go, but the only action it's seen the past few years has been XC rides where I rode it just because I hadn't ridden it in so long. I'm afraid of selling it because I know I may never, ever find a rig I like as much as this one. But I must face reality and can only hope someone on here can put it to good use.
Comes with LOTS of sick extra's.
Summary:
'05 Frame I bought brand new at the end of '05 from a guy who parted it out.
'07 Links and Marzocchi Roco rear shock.
888 RC2X fork.
Comes with extra rims, extra tires, extra misc.. everything..
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Iron-Horse-Sunday-RAW-with-LOTS-OF-SPARE-PARTS-rims-tires-etc-/190863724918?pt=US_Bicycles_Frames&hash=item2c705d5176
Thanks.
Very sad to see it go, but the only action it's seen the past few years has been XC rides where I rode it just because I hadn't ridden it in so long. I'm afraid of selling it because I know I may never, ever find a rig I like as much as this one. But I must face reality and can only hope someone on here can put it to good use.
Comes with LOTS of sick extra's.
Summary:
'05 Frame I bought brand new at the end of '05 from a guy who parted it out.
'07 Links and Marzocchi Roco rear shock.
888 RC2X fork.
Comes with extra rims, extra tires, extra misc.. everything..
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Iron-Horse-Sunday-RAW-with-LOTS-OF-SPARE-PARTS-rims-tires-etc-/190863724918?pt=US_Bicycles_Frames&hash=item2c705d5176
Thanks.
Awesome bike. Angleset?
looks tall up front and sllllllllack. i dig it
Works headset cup.
888 A-C adjusted +10mm.
1165mm wheelbase.
2mm headset stack.
38mm rise bar.
45mm stem ZS.
Short 2008 sunday, and i'm *sure* it's oddly about 10mm longer TT than 2009 Small sunday (measured twice with different frame, maybe defect/shortage of tube at factory/flex LOL). Anyway it suits me well here, mellow and tight track soooo much different from WC type. (174cm height, 177cm arm span)
888 A-C adjusted +10mm.
1165mm wheelbase.
2mm headset stack.
38mm rise bar.
45mm stem ZS.
Short 2008 sunday, and i'm *sure* it's oddly about 10mm longer TT than 2009 Small sunday (measured twice with different frame, maybe defect/shortage of tube at factory/flex LOL). Anyway it suits me well here, mellow and tight track soooo much different from WC type. (174cm height, 177cm arm span)
Curious - am experimenting w/ a VividAir R2C on a 6POINT8 frame. Went further, put a 8.75"/2.75" shock on there. Feels balanced with a 180mm Fork. A dw-tune for this shock?? I feel overly-high compression full open, RockShox is having a Auth-Center work on this soon, is there anything to extract with a specific tune here?? Or - just ask for an 'A'?
the 6point should also have a "light" or "A" compression tune and a "light" or "A" rebound tune. If its an air shock you will need to reduce the inner volume (increase the compression ratio) in order to get it feeling lively. most off-the-shelf low compression air shocks feels over-damped and dead even tho it cycles through the susp completely. xfusion o2rcx AV and xfusion vector air with DW tune are well matched air shocks for this linkage design. most coil shocks are the same way, run the compression adjustments wide open, fully out
I used to run a 180mm fork on my 6point, but A2C was a little tall, I prefer the 160-170mm range. Also consider the 8.5" x 2.5" shock to drop the rear a tiny bit, it will bring your HTA around 66-66.5 and makes the seat tube angle a bit better
I used to run a 180mm fork on my 6point, but A2C was a little tall, I prefer the 160-170mm range. Also consider the 8.5" x 2.5" shock to drop the rear a tiny bit, it will bring your HTA around 66-66.5 and makes the seat tube angle a bit better
Hello guys
Having a bitta trouble with my 09 sunday with 09 dw link. It appears the link is fine, but the bearings arent making contact with link (at the rear of the DW). Can't work out whats up, but it miiight be the link as there is a tiny step in it, but barely noticeable.
Saying it is the link - ive borrowed a friends 07 link that has been fixed by pearce. Will it fit my frame/ rear triangle? (I know it wont fit my vivid, but i can use his pushed DHX if necessary).
Cheers.
Having a bitta trouble with my 09 sunday with 09 dw link. It appears the link is fine, but the bearings arent making contact with link (at the rear of the DW). Can't work out whats up, but it miiight be the link as there is a tiny step in it, but barely noticeable.
Saying it is the link - ive borrowed a friends 07 link that has been fixed by pearce. Will it fit my frame/ rear triangle? (I know it wont fit my vivid, but i can use his pushed DHX if necessary).
Cheers.
Tobs -
It's unlikely that there would be problems with the link as it is a forged then CNC'd item. Most likely the bearings in the swingarm just aren't fully seated, remove them and check for paint or debris in the seat and ensure the bearing is fully seated. For a quick check, you can externally inspect the depth of the bearing cover in relation to the swingarm and compare with a friend's bike.
If that is not the problem (I'd be surprised), then yes the 07 link fits the 09 frame and is the same apart from a small machining for the Vivid which you can cut in yourself if needed. 07-09 frames are identical apart from the machining for the Vivid which was introduced in 08.
It's unlikely that there would be problems with the link as it is a forged then CNC'd item. Most likely the bearings in the swingarm just aren't fully seated, remove them and check for paint or debris in the seat and ensure the bearing is fully seated. For a quick check, you can externally inspect the depth of the bearing cover in relation to the swingarm and compare with a friend's bike.
If that is not the problem (I'd be surprised), then yes the 07 link fits the 09 frame and is the same apart from a small machining for the Vivid which you can cut in yourself if needed. 07-09 frames are identical apart from the machining for the Vivid which was introduced in 08.
It appears as if one bearing hasn't gone through far enough, but the seat is pretty much free of obstructions. So unbuilt the link has a tiny amount of play, when built its barely noticeable. I'm feeling this isn't correct, and it should sit tight regardless of if its fully built or just the link sitting in the frame. Or is this normal?
(apologies for such a badly worded paragraph).
(apologies for such a badly worded paragraph).
The best thing to do is measure and compare L/R bearing depth on your frame, and compare to another frame also. I wouldn't say it sits tight when disassembled however there shouldn't be a visible gap.
It is worth picking out any paint from where the bearing seats as paint will stop the bearing contacting the back of the seat. My apologies if you meant there is no paint by 'free of obstructions'.
It's also important to make sure the play you are feeling is actually what you think it is (side to side) rather than play from the pivot axle inside the link, which can also occur. The solution to that is loctite 609 retaining compound, I've covered the problem and application in detail if you read backwards through this thread.
As I said it is unlikely for the link width to be out of spec, however it is common for the bearing bores to be imperfect - and it is also common for the pivot axle to wear out the bore of the link.
It is worth picking out any paint from where the bearing seats as paint will stop the bearing contacting the back of the seat. My apologies if you meant there is no paint by 'free of obstructions'.
It's also important to make sure the play you are feeling is actually what you think it is (side to side) rather than play from the pivot axle inside the link, which can also occur. The solution to that is loctite 609 retaining compound, I've covered the problem and application in detail if you read backwards through this thread.
As I said it is unlikely for the link width to be out of spec, however it is common for the bearing bores to be imperfect - and it is also common for the pivot axle to wear out the bore of the link.
Cheers Udi! Yeah its only a tiny amount, like i said when it was half built up it was a lot tighter, i dont know if perhaps things flex for it to sit tight maybe. Its only a tiny amount of play and the gap isn't visible by eye i don't think.
I've picked the paint out with a stanley knife when i changed the bearings, so it should be free. But i'll have another go tonight. Problem being i'm off to France on Sunday and only just noticed this!
I've picked the paint out with a stanley knife when i changed the bearings, so it should be free. But i'll have another go tonight. Problem being i'm off to France on Sunday and only just noticed this!
Depending the fork, my A2C may be different. Not knowing this HT Angle, the bike stays planted and lofts off the right parts of the trail. With the R2C as is it can have 45PSI+/- and still be at sag. With a Low-tune there should be enough room to run a bit more PSI still, I doubt any Air Volume will be upset.
I got some trouble you experts might be able to help out with....
I got my 2009 Ironhorse Sunday powdercoated and all bearings went in fine. All rotate freely except the lower ones in the rear triangle. I thought the bearings didn't like being pressed in, but after removal I realized the rotate freely outside of the frame.
Have the mounting holes gone out of roundness or what is going on? Has anyone seen this before? I mean the bearings go in like the should, but they are not rotating freely, and I can't get the axel through the bearing either.
Worth mentioning is that I put the bearings in the freezer for easier assembly, the mounting holes where not painted, but did get some minor blasting on them, in the cleaning process.
Might not be the easiest thing to try but I am guessing I need to find someone to measure the roundness and line hone them to spec, and potentially need to use some bearing retainer compound (Loctite 609 or similar), or what is the cure?
Any tips welcome.
I got my 2009 Ironhorse Sunday powdercoated and all bearings went in fine. All rotate freely except the lower ones in the rear triangle. I thought the bearings didn't like being pressed in, but after removal I realized the rotate freely outside of the frame.
Have the mounting holes gone out of roundness or what is going on? Has anyone seen this before? I mean the bearings go in like the should, but they are not rotating freely, and I can't get the axel through the bearing either.
Worth mentioning is that I put the bearings in the freezer for easier assembly, the mounting holes where not painted, but did get some minor blasting on them, in the cleaning process.
Might not be the easiest thing to try but I am guessing I need to find someone to measure the roundness and line hone them to spec, and potentially need to use some bearing retainer compound (Loctite 609 or similar), or what is the cure?
Any tips welcome.
I got some trouble you experts might be able to help out with....
I got my 2009 Ironhorse Sunday powdercoated and all bearings went in fine. All rotate freely except the lower ones in the rear triangle. I thought the bearings didn't like being pressed in, but after removal I realized the rotate freely outside of the frame.
Have the mounting holes gone out of roundness or what is going on? Has anyone seen this before? I mean the bearings go in like the should, but they are not rotating freely, and I can't get the axel through the bearing either.
Worth mentioning is that I put the bearings in the freezer for easier assembly, the mounting holes where not painted, but did get some minor blasting on them, in the cleaning process.
Might not be the easiest thing to try but I am guessing I need to find someone to measure the roundness and line hone them to spec, and potentially need to use some bearing retainer compound (Loctite 609 or similar), or what is the cure?
Any tips welcome.
I got my 2009 Ironhorse Sunday powdercoated and all bearings went in fine. All rotate freely except the lower ones in the rear triangle. I thought the bearings didn't like being pressed in, but after removal I realized the rotate freely outside of the frame.
Have the mounting holes gone out of roundness or what is going on? Has anyone seen this before? I mean the bearings go in like the should, but they are not rotating freely, and I can't get the axel through the bearing either.
Worth mentioning is that I put the bearings in the freezer for easier assembly, the mounting holes where not painted, but did get some minor blasting on them, in the cleaning process.
Might not be the easiest thing to try but I am guessing I need to find someone to measure the roundness and line hone them to spec, and potentially need to use some bearing retainer compound (Loctite 609 or similar), or what is the cure?
Any tips welcome.
Arena Swe -
It's indeed common for those particular bearing bores (lower rear triangle) to be out of round unfortunately. It's not enough to be a problem in any case I've seen, but if you are particular then it may be worth getting them honed to spec. The retaining compound will work if you go a little too far with the resizing. A less precise but workable solution would be to find which sides of the bore are tighter and to sand them down a little bit, keeping the 609 handy in case it is needed after.
It's indeed common for those particular bearing bores (lower rear triangle) to be out of round unfortunately. It's not enough to be a problem in any case I've seen, but if you are particular then it may be worth getting them honed to spec. The retaining compound will work if you go a little too far with the resizing. A less precise but workable solution would be to find which sides of the bore are tighter and to sand them down a little bit, keeping the 609 handy in case it is needed after.
Okay, so there has been problems with these particular bores! I was thinking in the same lines as you as how to sort the problem out. I am first going to check with a robotics machinist friend. If the can't sort it out, I will try the more hands on approach.
But the out of roundness seem to have happened after the heat treatment. I have replaced the bearings before without and issues. Just seems a bit crazy that is would impact the bearing to the point where it really doesn't rotate as it should, or putting that much pressure on the inner ring or the bearing, guess the tolerance s are quite tight.
But the out of roundness seem to have happened after the heat treatment. I have replaced the bearings before without and issues. Just seems a bit crazy that is would impact the bearing to the point where it really doesn't rotate as it should, or putting that much pressure on the inner ring or the bearing, guess the tolerance s are quite tight.
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My machinist didn't have the proper reaming tool for the bores, but new bearings and a little razorblade scraping + polishing and it works.
VividAir received from the local Rock Shox center - much more feel on the rear-wheel. Only a shake-down ride, a lot of room left for finding a good setting. Thanks!
New pedals (Saint), tires(highroller2) and brake pads(shimano d02s). Still need a chain and grips. Not decided yet but maybe change my handlebar on rethal.
2 month ago take a second place on the local race:
(girl take a medal for her boyfriend)
Action will be in a few weeks, if someone can shoot me on the camera. If not - do a GoPro chest cam.
2 month ago take a second place on the local race:
(girl take a medal for her boyfriend)
Action will be in a few weeks, if someone can shoot me on the camera. If not - do a GoPro chest cam.
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did you have to file the shock cage to get it to fit, or did it go ok?
This wasn't for a Sunday Build - just a 6Point8 frame which went unused all these years. Thanks though!!
Every time I look in this thread I want to get a Sunday as a project bike. Normally I can't find a Large but there are a few on PB right now, tempting...
there are? I can't help but look. I didn't like the shock on my bike, but the geometry and feel of the suspension were pretty awesome. Such a well built frame.
This.
*singing chorus* do it.. do it.. do it..
