Sounds like you want a "General Lee Wide-Range Cassette Adapter." Gives you 11-40 using a 1030, 1050, or 1070 SRAM cassette. Pretty pricey though. Only place I've seen them for sale is on eBay.
SRAM X01 vs. ??
- Thread starter stoney
- Start date
It is possible that your problems shifting under power could be due to frame flex and little to with the actual drivetrain.
That's what I've determined.
There's not really much in the way of flex from the frame.
-20lbs
40t cog? even trials riders don't run gearing that low
It's a 30-11/40 range. When you run the gear ratio calculations, the 30-40 is roughly 22-34.It sounds silly, but allows for a single ring up front to get nearly the same ratios.40t cog? even trials riders don't run gearing that low
what size front
See above.
Oh lurdy. At that point its more efficient to get off and walk.
do you think you NEED the guide? I used to have a Heim 2-ring but ditched it. No problems.
Like someone else said, check your derailleur hanger. With the narrow spacing of 10 and 11 spd, proper alignment is critical. After years of winging/eyeballing it I finally broke down and bought a park too for it, fixed similar issues on two of my bikes.
I would prefer to have it on, given the switch back between DH and trail.
I'll toss one of my spares on later.
The easiest solution is to remove the guide and buy a dedicated DH bike.
I am surprised you are having gearing/chain problems with 10sp set ups. I am heavier then you and have not had any chain issues except for when I have warn out front rings.
I have used a lot of Race Face set ups mixed with shimano products and have used the narrow wide ring which does help with chain retention but I think your issue isn't chain retention I think it is to much chain protection. Check your guide and make sure it isn't set to tight also I wouldn't keep the guide on if you switch to that race face chain ring until you work out the kinks. To much chain tension causes breakage of chains.
I have a lot of saddle time on the XX1 and X01 platform stuff and can tell you that it is nice stuff but I don't think it is budget friendly yet and also for mountain biking to loose a 400 dollar rear mech is to scary for most people to put on a DH bike. I will say that it does work in providing a range although it is a little quirky to get used to the shifting stages in the begining. So far the only person to swear by it around me is CJ, the SRAM rep and others are still not convinced because of price point.
I have used a lot of Race Face set ups mixed with shimano products and have used the narrow wide ring which does help with chain retention but I think your issue isn't chain retention I think it is to much chain protection. Check your guide and make sure it isn't set to tight also I wouldn't keep the guide on if you switch to that race face chain ring until you work out the kinks. To much chain tension causes breakage of chains.
I have a lot of saddle time on the XX1 and X01 platform stuff and can tell you that it is nice stuff but I don't think it is budget friendly yet and also for mountain biking to loose a 400 dollar rear mech is to scary for most people to put on a DH bike. I will say that it does work in providing a range although it is a little quirky to get used to the shifting stages in the begining. So far the only person to swear by it around me is CJ, the SRAM rep and others are still not convinced because of price point.
PM Sandwich.
the reputation must be spread.
I did just find an old school Turner for cheap, so I might take a look at that. Selling the coil and new DH wheel I am building should get me half way there. With my other miscellaneous parts to sell, I think I might just be able to break even. Now to deal with Wifey on that front.
distract her with kid #2
That's a great idea. Distract her from my spending $500, by pumping out another money spending machine. That little snot is my second largest expense per year, only to my mortgage.
Very aware. Very, very aware.
oh i'm sorry, i wasn't aware logic had been reintroduced to this thread.
Nick just pointed out that I'm being a dumbass about this. I'm just going to drop a 36/22 combo with no guide, then back to the SRS with a 36 tooth for DH duty. That way no chain length issues, and I don't need to spen much coin.
Wait, what? You're going to swap drivetrain parts every time you change riding type?
Every time I see a "Give me bike part advice" Stoney thread I think to myself "Dude, you have friends that ride, right here in Colorado! Why don't you just ask us? We're at least as good of advice givers as the Internet!" And then I remember that we'd all basically tell you that you're being a dumbass about it, and it's fine the way it is really. Carry on.
Rings, popping on a guide, change the shock, and rear tire to a Minion. The front der is totally bolt-on, so that's easy. It's a ~45min process to make the changes.
Shut your pie hole. Ride Wednesday after work?
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With your derailleur adjusting prowess.....4hrs.
Maybe. The LBG and I fly out on a red-eye that night for a wedding on the East Coast. So, unlikely—but you never know. Better chance now that I have a couple days notice. You thinking your typical 3:30 timeframe, something south-ish like Derp Crick?
If I can't climb something with a 32/36, I'm walking and more gearing couldn't help...
I'm on a 32/34 right now. It was hell when I first started, but once you get used to it, definitely the way to go.
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Isn't that the same as posting on the monkey?
Sadly you can't slap someone upside the head via the internets.
PSP and Mooshoo would have permanent bruises.
Also, I'm running a dedicated Shimano XT 2x10, a clutched rear derailer, no guide, on an SB... and have nearly zero issues with shifting or throwing a chain. Well, okay fine. It throws a chain now if I stand up and mash on the pedals—but that's because my front ring teeth are completely worn out and I need a new drivetrain. It was 100% good to go for the first 1,200+ miles of it's life. Granted, you've broken several 10-speed chains and weigh more than I do. Have all these chains been Shimano? SRAM? What's the story? I hear KMC makes a really sturdy chain. Maybe the answer is "just be less of a ham-fisted wookie" and it'd all work out?
Also also, I have found the derailer mount to bend fairly easily on my SB. Mayhaps yours is tweaked just a bit? This could be part of the issue.
Also also also, I somehow bent a cog at one point several months ago and it was giving me FITS with shifting. I never thought to look at the cassette because how dafuq would anyone ever bend a cog in the cassette? Well, I apparently had managed to make that happen, and it played hell with my shifting until it was figured out.
Also also, I have found the derailer mount to bend fairly easily on my SB. Mayhaps yours is tweaked just a bit? This could be part of the issue.
Also also also, I somehow bent a cog at one point several months ago and it was giving me FITS with shifting. I never thought to look at the cassette because how dafuq would anyone ever bend a cog in the cassette? Well, I apparently had managed to make that happen, and it played hell with my shifting until it was figured out.
FT makes a good point re: the cogs.
I broke a sram cog in half (and it fell completely off the freehub) mid ride, which raised all kinds of hell with shifting as the whole cassette slid around.
After laughing at me, my riding buddy bent one of his rear cogs the next ride.
both were xo/or x9 (not the one piece, fully machined cassette).
I broke a sram cog in half (and it fell completely off the freehub) mid ride, which raised all kinds of hell with shifting as the whole cassette slid around.
After laughing at me, my riding buddy bent one of his rear cogs the next ride.
both were xo/or x9 (not the one piece, fully machined cassette).