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Blown rebound in 2011 Boxxer RC's (??)

ButtersNZ

Monkey
Jun 6, 2013
176
10
Hi all. After an abnormally harsh run on the weekend I became aware that I was only getting around 3.5" travel out of my Boxxers. I pulled the spring out and sure enough the travel bumps out on something at about the halfway mark. The compression knob still appears to do it's job.

I've never pulled the cartridge out of a fork before but I suppose that is the next step. Does it sound like the rebound has broken? I'd like to try assess this myself because I'm pretty broke at the moment.

Appreciate any help and advice and will update with photos once I've cracked into it.

Cheers
 

slimshady

¡Mira, una ardilla!
I'd say you suffered from hydrolock. Pretty common in the RS line. The seal around the rebound shaft has failed, letting oil inside the right stanchion migrate to the lowers, preventing the fork from compressing more than those 3.5 inches you mention. Pull the lowers apart with a big pan to receive the oil below them, and you'll recover the full travel. You'll have to change the seal/slider in the bottom of the right stanchion, and off course refill the stanchion from the top.
 
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ButtersNZ

Monkey
Jun 6, 2013
176
10
Thanks dude, much appreciated! That sounds a lot cheaper than what I was expecting. Cheers :D
 

kgm

Chimp
Nov 11, 2012
33
0
co
I'd check the outer tube of the rebound damper shaft for cracks. Though mainly the r2c2/wc dampers did it, some of the 2010 and 2011 had cracking shafts. This can also land you in lock-town.
 
Sep 27, 2013
2
0
I bought the fork new from an online bike shop and I know that it should not be doing this. I contacted Sram and all they told me was to warant it from the shop I bought it from. The beggining stroke rebound works fine, but its just the ending stroke that is having problems. Before I try and warranty it, does anyone know what the problem may be? Cheers!
 

trailbildr

Chimp
Aug 14, 2012
17
0
If you take apart the rebound and can't find anything obviously wrong, you'll have to replace the rebound assembly. It's pretty easy to service dual crown forks as you can just take out one stanchion at a time. Just make sure you check the damper oil volume.

As for new forks, I don't like saying this but you should rebuild a fork as soon as you get it. I've seen new forks that were perfectly wonderful out of OEM but I've seen a lot of forks without bath oil or low on damper oil. It sucks.

On dh stuff especially, you should take a look and ID some small parts/replacement stuff to keep on hand if you like tinkering.

mk
 

ButtersNZ

Monkey
Jun 6, 2013
176
10
Thank you for the helpful advice. It's heading to my local bike shop for a (long overdue) full service so I can race in the next couple of weeks :)
 

ButtersNZ

Monkey
Jun 6, 2013
176
10
Whelp, the damper had cracks between the slots and apparently these were caused by it being over-filled with oil at the last service. The harsh compressions during riding flexed the plastic against the oil level (?) and caused it to fracture. The o-rings also failed and let oil into the lowers so I lost travel eventually.

A new damper, full seal kit and o-ring kit is in there now and it's super plush.
 
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