This is a rant I have every few months on here, hence my aloofness in bringing it up again, but having to remove the steel drive ring from the hub body to get to the driveside hub bearing is stupid. And it tightens under pedalling load, so inevitably it's stuck in there. I've seen teams of experienced mechanics put the DT tool in a vice, put the wheel on top, and break literally every spoke in a wheel trying to get that thing out of there. I've never been able to do it without resorting to an acetylene torch.
Not sure mine is binding the bearings, but it's definitely slightly crushed such that the OD has a slight taper to it, making rebuilding all the more fun...
Agree that it's not the best design, but mine came off relatively easily the one time I did it. Guess I got lucky.
I feel your pain, I've had a hell of a time getting that damn drive ring loosened on several occasions. Last time a heat gun and impact gun did the trick. I made own tool out of an old ratchet ring and impact socket that I tig welded together. I don't regret buying them though, they are decent hubs and as an added bonus they used to belong to Neko.
Translation: I dun dropped all the shit inside but then put it back tuhgether suh nevermind
I had the same experience with Hadley. My brand new one seized on the first wet ride, probably a week after I bought it. The stupid needle bearing is ridiculously sensitive to water intrusion and the seals obviously didn't do a very good job. The stock bearings also didn't last very long, and both of the bearings have to be pushed out of the same side of the hub which was kinda retarded (so one bearing has to cross 2 interference fits). It was fine for ages after I put better bearings in and packed the needle bearing with grease, and the parts were machined nicely, but I wouldn't buy another.
Likewise. Had to rebuild one recently and it went smoothly but only with the aid of a proprietary tool and a heat gun, neither of which should be required to change bearings on a hub. Apparently the 240 doesn't need the tool to change the bearing which is good, but I've heard of a few breaking flanges now since it's not actually supposed to be a DH hub - which I believed since the flanges cracked off my Hugi FR too (previous labeling of 440).
i had this problem, then i found out that they made a special bash guard for saints that compensated for the thicker chainring tabs. didn't have a problem after that. [edit: i've still gone back to e13]
I live in Seattle and have 3 Hadley hubs, none of which have had those problems.
My XT chainring bolts are the same. There is no need for Torx bolts on a bicycle.
They are nice for really tiny stuff, since they are harder to strip. Ideally the whole world would be torx, the problem with them isn't that they aren't good, but that they aren't prevalent.
That's because no one's been silly enough to buy one.
Had the exact same experience, I bought Avid Code-R's and never looked back. Kinda wish I had the Code-R's on my megatrail, I think I glazed the brake pads in my XT brakes a couple weeks back, scared the crap outta me on some steep stuff.0
my stock bearings lasted 6 years riding in the rain and constant washing of my bike before i decided to replace them... not because they were bad, only because i felt like rebuilding it. the replacement bearings they sent me felt like shit after a year. figures. the two front hubs i have are just as old and still spin for ages. theres one constant on all my bikes for the past 15 years. Hadley hubs
