I need a new pump. Thinking about getting one of the new pumps that can seat tubeless where you can build up pressure an release it. Anybody got any recommendations?
Pump that can seat tubeless
- Thread starter CBJ
- Start date
If you want to save money:
http://www.bikeradar.com/mtb/gear/article/how-to-make-a-tubeless-inflator-44290/
That will not help if I don't have a pump and I don't mind paying for a little convenience too of an integrated pump. Ideally I would get a compressor but I am in the process of moving to Europe so not investing in anything 110v.
I have found that most any pump will seat a tubeless tire if you take the stem core out, inflate, seat tire, put stem core back in and reinflate.
edit: of course, that only works with presta.
edit: of course, that only works with presta.
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I find it's much moar important to have one side of the bead already seated (via a tube) and then just pump fairly normally with a high volume pump than to have moar air, because if the bead isn't partially seated like this, the moar air just escapes too fast, even if it's under pressure IME. Having a pump that can pump though the core-less stem is also invaluable, because again, even if you have moar air, the restriction of having the core in slows it down to the point where it doesn't matter if it's at 400psi, it's too slow filling the tire.
As long as the rim channel is made tall enough with some loops of Gorilla Tape, I can seat any tire, wether it's tubeless or not, with my old Giyo Air Supply floor pump.
And I'm using Stan's Schrader valves, with their cores in.
And I'm using Stan's Schrader valves, with their cores in.
Fleeing from the US before it is impossible, eh?
I have been lucky with a normal Park floor pump to seat tubeless tires, but I generally have either a rim or tire or both UST certified, which I think helps.
From friends who bought the Topeak or Bontrager tubeless pumps with reservoir I hear that they like a regular floor pump better for the normal pump function. Do you also need it for road bikes?
IMO the SKS Rennkompressor is the most awesome floor pump ever: http://www.sks-germany.com/en/products/rennkompressor/
In addition you could get the Airshot: http://www.airshotltd.com/
You could also get one of those mini compressors that hook up to 12V car outlets. They normally come with power supplies that can take both 110 and 240 V (at least in Yurp).
https://www.specialized.com/us/en/accessories/17pumpfloorair-tool-blast-117288/117288
http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/equipment/cycling-accessories/bike-pumps/bontrager-tlr-flash-charger-floor-pump/p/11881/
don't have either, but I want the spec pump for 55. I want a garage pump and a bike room pump, and being able to seat my dh tires would be nice.
http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/equipment/cycling-accessories/bike-pumps/bontrager-tlr-flash-charger-floor-pump/p/11881/
don't have either, but I want the spec pump for 55. I want a garage pump and a bike room pump, and being able to seat my dh tires would be nice.
Translation:
As long as I've made my tire heavy enough with gorilla tape to negate the benefit of tubeless, it works.
I supposed this would pop up. The main benefit to me isn't dropping maybe 200 grams per wheel, but minimizing the risk of pinch flatting. When I said "some looops" I meant maybe 2. 3 in the worst case.
I understand your main driver for switching to tubeless might be the weight savings, but in my case it's all about reliability, and being able to run pressures low enough to feel comfortable.
Of the new crop of BlastyBooster® turbo pumpers, my only experience is with my Bontrager Flash Charger and it is tits.
It's my only pump and no problems after a bit over a year. I've seated nano tires to 2.5 DH tires and all sorts of trail tires on both DT Swiss and Stans rims. Works great. I'm not airing up every ride, but when I do top off, it only takes an extra couple second or five compared to a standard floor pump. So, without using or really even seeing any of the others, I can't compare, but again, this thing is sweet. I know dat much.
Good luck.
It's my only pump and no problems after a bit over a year. I've seated nano tires to 2.5 DH tires and all sorts of trail tires on both DT Swiss and Stans rims. Works great. I'm not airing up every ride, but when I do top off, it only takes an extra couple second or five compared to a standard floor pump. So, without using or really even seeing any of the others, I can't compare, but again, this thing is sweet. I know dat much.
Good luck.
too easy. joke about a picture of most popular girl on alaskan dating sites or something equivalent.
I find it's much moar important to have one side of the bead already seated (via a tube) and then just pump fairly normally with a high volume pump than to have moar air, because if the bead isn't partially seated like this, the moar air just escapes too fast, even if it's under pressure IME. Having a pump that can pump though the core-less stem is also invaluable, because again, even if you have moar air, the restriction of having the core in slows it down to the point where it doesn't matter if it's at 400psi, it's too slow filling the tire.
do you really put a tube in, seat the tire take the tube out and reinflate? lol.
for what it's worth, i haven't had an issue with removing the stem core and inflating a tire and getting it to seat.
Yep, because it also helps to push the tape onto the rim and make that solid, rather than worrying about sealant working it's way to the nipple or valve holes. So I leave a tube inflated overnight. And then after I do set the bead with a pump and put in sealant, I ride it immediately, to make sure the sealant works it's way around. Spinning the wheel is not as effective and if left after, loses air much of the time IME. When I set tubeless tires, I want it to work, not fuss around and waste time. This gives the most consistent results for me.
Meh. TiT method too messy when swapping tires with sealant still in them. 
Edit: or when setting up ghetto tubeless with split tube, which I found is the moar reliable method for the rear wheel anyway.
Edit: or when setting up ghetto tubeless with split tube, which I found is the moar reliable method for the rear wheel anyway.
I have one of those pumps with the extra air can that releases over 200lbs of air in one go. The only way it would work though is if I wet the tire edges and inside of the rim walls with sealant.
I've been using the Special-Eds Air Tool MTB Floor Pump to great success for about 2 years now. I was able to seat every tubelessready or UST tire on ZTR Flow and Mavic Crossmax SX rims.
I was also able to seat some standard folding tires, but not a 26x2.50 Minion DHF EXO and neither a 26x2.40 DHR2 EXO. For those I needed a second pair of hands to shake the wheel while I was furiously pumping (and sweating). There was a great mess afterwards, sealant all over the floor. So don't do this in your appartement and/or with your GF/wife. She problably won't approve.
I was also able to seat some standard folding tires, but not a 26x2.50 Minion DHF EXO and neither a 26x2.40 DHR2 EXO. For those I needed a second pair of hands to shake the wheel while I was furiously pumping (and sweating). There was a great mess afterwards, sealant all over the floor. So don't do this in your appartement and/or with your GF/wife. She problably won't approve.
I had the same experience with the specialized blaster. I gutted mine, welded a pipe thread nipple on the top and put a ball valve on for moar airflow.
It really pissed me off that I had to resort to such extreme measures to get it working the way it should have worked out of the box.
http://www.shop.com/TOPEAK+TJB+BST+TOPEAK+JOEBLOW+BOOSTER+TUBELESS+PUMP-1501821598-p+.xhtml?sourceid=298&gclid=Cj0KEQiAk5zEBRD9lfno2dek0tsBEiQAWVKyuEVGbNEXFldS9L2XYSaRc0r6B-DW2iiog0Ca2AbOX-saAtyo8P8HAQ
http://www.pinkbike.com/news/topeak-joeblow-booster-review-2016.html
looks like the spec doesn't actually have a pump attached. that's disappointing. How about the topeak or the bontrage'
http://www.pinkbike.com/news/topeak-joeblow-booster-review-2016.html
looks like the spec doesn't actually have a pump attached. that's disappointing. How about the topeak or the bontrage'
also curious about the topeak booster pump...
This is the most affordable pump/air tank I've seen in good shops http://www.jensonusa.com/JensonUSA-Airblast-Tubeless-Floor-Pump?cs=Black
My DIY inflatulator made from a juice bottle works fine so I am not getting one of those.
My DIY inflatulator made from a juice bottle works fine so I am not getting one of those.
Topeak pump is great the air canister can be bypassed it does not have to be filled first, unlike the Bontranger.
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that jenson one is nice. probably rebranded something else. nice price, I never could figure out why a pump with an added volume canister costs $200.
This. I use a regular Spesh Air Tool pump, and the only tire I couldn't get to seat was a Schwalbe Rock Razor, which in hindsight, was probably the FSM trying to tell me something. My theory on the Schwalbe (besides it being a Schwalbe and all) was the casing didn't "push out" towards the rim sidewall like the other tires I've used.
I seated my first pair of tires just fine with a floor pump, but the DH tires need some extra oomph to get the bead over to the wall. I don't need a compressor for anything else so that doesn't make sense. I don't really want to mess with soap and water until I really have to (or let @StiHacka do it). So for me, this makes some sense.
I use that pump as well. Most of the time it has worked just fine for DH tires for me. I run a bead of sealant around my tire beads on either sides, as well as the normal sealant in the tire and it seems to really help seating the beads. Also helps to slide the tires onto the rims.
For real stubborn tires it becomes a two man job, or, I just use my compressor in the garage.
I've never had an issue using a regular floor pump until the rim dents. After one good dent I need to break out the compressor for trail tires, 1.5 and 2 ply tires are still fine with the floor pump. I apply soapy water to the beads with a brush and pump the tire up with no sealant to seat the beads, then add sealant through the valve cores and pump them back up.
A small tip which might help with those stubborn, unsealable DH tires: running a rope around the tire, at the center of the thread and pulling it snug will force the beads against the rim's wall. Once the beads pop into place you can loosen the rope.
A tie down works better than a rope, I'd guess. http://www.backcountrygear.com/nrs-1-inch-heavy-duty-tie-down-strap.html?gclid=Cj0KEQiAk5zEBRD9lfno2dek0tsBEiQAWVKyuB5vJmsLqXST-zYVcUmlB1TaW1R-__025fQGtMB1xwIaAnOY8P8HAQ
Never thought of it, great idea! I use a length of nylon rope with a slipknot in one end, but since I have several tie downs I use to strap the bike to the car, I like your solution a lot more!
I occasionally use tiedowns and have had an air compressor in the garage forever. Most of the time an ordinary floor pump works just fine.
It really depends on the tire. Schwalbe are generally a massive pita, as are Spesh tires. Maxxis are fine, so are Michelins and e13s. I can't imagine seating bead of GRID Spesh without some air tank or compressor.
Weird, I find Butcher Grids to be about the easiest to setup with a track pump. I'm using WTB i25 rims that follow the UST rim-bead interface spec.
Hi, I bought the jenson pump. It's OK. Happy to write a review if anybody wants.
Short review- it works, reasonably well. There are some improvements possible. It is better than a floor pump. It seated DH tires, but it took a couple tries.
Short review- it works, reasonably well. There are some improvements possible. It is better than a floor pump. It seated DH tires, but it took a couple tries.
I've been seating one side with a tube for a while now, then pump up with a standard floor pump and it takes just a few seconds to seat (a freaking huge fat bike tire). Seems like cheating these days based on what I've experienced otherwise trying to blow tires on and keep all the leaks from progressing with air compressors and the like...