I'll try to set up to that height. The stanchions/crowns have a LOT of room to move.
The Official Iron Horse Sunday / DW-Link Tech. & Tuning Section
- Thread starter S.K.C.
- Start date
I just broke my Vivid 5.1 last weekend.
Looking for a new shock, whats everyone thoughts of how the Ohlins TTX22M (the one that came in the Spec Demo) would perform on the Sunday?
Looking for a new shock, whats everyone thoughts of how the Ohlins TTX22M (the one that came in the Spec Demo) would perform on the Sunday?
I have a Vivid for sale if you're interested, not necessarily a Sunday tune but it will fit:
https://www.pinkbike.com/buysell/2117504/
If you go back a couple of pages there is mention of someone running 650b on one of these frames.
although, IIRC, the general consensus was its a PITA for a minimal gain.
I ended up replacing my vivid 5.1 for another 5.1.
But when everything is assembled this happens:
I tried everything but it doesnt seem to go in more than this. Has it happen to anyone else? Is there any problem to run it like this?
But when everything is assembled this happens:
I tried everything but it doesnt seem to go in more than this. Has it happen to anyone else? Is there any problem to run it like this?
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Yeah, there is only one way to put it, strange thing is that it doesn't go in more than it is. Everything is tight, will try it today and see how it goes.
When you re-assembled and put the pin through the lower link which side did you tighten first? Drive side or non-drive side?
Try loosening both bolts (one on either side of the pin) and snug the non-drive side first, followed by the bolt on the drive side. It's been a while since I took my Sunday apart, but I believe that the non-drive side bolt should be tightened first because that will "pull" the pin into place. After this is done then you can tighten the drive-side, which expands that end of the pin to really lock it in place.
I'm thinking that if you do the opposite and tighten the drive-side first, then that side of the pin will expand and sort of lock it into place, regardless of wether or not the pin is completely inserted. Like someone else said, as long as it's tight it's probably OK, but try this and let us know how you make out.
Try loosening both bolts (one on either side of the pin) and snug the non-drive side first, followed by the bolt on the drive side. It's been a while since I took my Sunday apart, but I believe that the non-drive side bolt should be tightened first because that will "pull" the pin into place. After this is done then you can tighten the drive-side, which expands that end of the pin to really lock it in place.
I'm thinking that if you do the opposite and tighten the drive-side first, then that side of the pin will expand and sort of lock it into place, regardless of wether or not the pin is completely inserted. Like someone else said, as long as it's tight it's probably OK, but try this and let us know how you make out.
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To add to what sundaydoug said (he's correct RE: how it works), I'd remove the pin entirely along with both bolts from the pin, lightly grease the surface of pin (but not the threads) and then use a long M6 bolt threaded a decent way into the expanding (larger) side that you can whack with a hammer to get the pin to seat properly. I used a 100mm length bolt from memory, which made it easy to clear the chainring etc.
Then remove your extension bolt (may help to insert and tighten the 1st countersunk M6 bolt on the small side of the pin first at this stage, to stop free-rotation of pin) and then finally install the 2nd countersunk M6 bolt into the expanding side and tighten it up.
I found that long M6 bolt together with the hammer important tools in being able to quickly and easily remove and reinstall the shock in the Sunday. To remove the pin you use the long bolt and hammer in the same way, except from the small side of the pin (after removing the bolt and at least loosening the wedge side bolt obviously).
It does need to be seated correctly, the small end of the pin has to sit inside the opposite side of the link and if it's either not in completely or only a small way in it could damage the link and hardware in use.
Then remove your extension bolt (may help to insert and tighten the 1st countersunk M6 bolt on the small side of the pin first at this stage, to stop free-rotation of pin) and then finally install the 2nd countersunk M6 bolt into the expanding side and tighten it up.
I found that long M6 bolt together with the hammer important tools in being able to quickly and easily remove and reinstall the shock in the Sunday. To remove the pin you use the long bolt and hammer in the same way, except from the small side of the pin (after removing the bolt and at least loosening the wedge side bolt obviously).
It does need to be seated correctly, the small end of the pin has to sit inside the opposite side of the link and if it's either not in completely or only a small way in it could damage the link and hardware in use.
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Finally solved it. Remembered I switched the DW link because it was upside down so tried and switched the grey and black bolts that attach to the frame from one side to the other and everything went smoothly.
Sunday as of today:
Sunday as of today:
Hey guys and girls,
anyone thought of cutting his/her seattube on a size L Sunday? Making it 17 inches high (as an M size) rather than 19???
anyone thought of cutting his/her seattube on a size L Sunday? Making it 17 inches high (as an M size) rather than 19???
There's almost no point, you'd just save a few grams. You usually can't slam the seat without buzzing the tire, even on the 19".
I'm perfectly comfortable on my M size, i find the 1180mm wheelbase long enough (usually around 1150, but i've got a -3 angleset). I thought about making a project with an L size front triangle to see how it feels and wondered if someone hasn't done it already. 
Thought about such a moded L size - with he angleset the wheelbase would be around 1210mm - like the current M size frames.
Thought about such a moded L size - with he angleset the wheelbase would be around 1210mm - like the current M size frames. 
I had an L yakuza for a while, after riding a medium sunday for a long time. Loved it. Felt instantly more comfortable going much faster than I had on the sunday. Then again, I also used a 35mm stem, so I'm weird.
I did not find the saddle height on that frame to be an issue. I'm 5'11"
I did not find the saddle height on that frame to be an issue. I'm 5'11"
I'm 5'7-5'8, had a run on an L size Sunday and found it uncomfortable due to the height of the frame, not how long it was. The M is perfect for me right now, i'm just curious if an L size would be even better if it's not so high.
That post was from 7 years ago, no dice sorry (searched my inbox for ya).
Just buy them from pearce, their parts are great.
I was also confortable on my older M size but thought the same as you and decided to switch to an L frame.I'm perfectly comfortable on my M size, i find the 1180mm wheelbase long enough (usually around 1150, but i've got a -3 angleset). I thought about making a project with an L size front triangle to see how it feels and wondered if someone hasn't done it already.
Truth is I feel more confortable now with the L, geometry with a -2 angleset is similar to an M or even some brands S size of current DH models, 1200mm WB, 63º HA and 34.5mm BB height.
Yeah, but i have a problem with the L size height - i'm 171-172cm tall with short-ish legs and the 19' seattube keeps the saddle seriously scratching my balls... I had the opportunity to ride my M size first with a normal headset and a SC fork, then with a -2 angleset and a DC fork, and finally switched to -3 angleset. With these changes it was becoming more and more stable at speeds. I'm more of a plow-type guy, i prefer to go throught obstacles instead of flying over them and the bike is perfect at this! I found a great improvement going from -2 to -3 degrees. I guess an L size would be even better at speed, but only if i can shorten the seattube.
EDIT: My frame is a 2006/2007 example, with the older links (not the F7 ones). What would happen if i'm able to source a newer example L size frame (with the F7 links)? Would the front triangle be OK to connect with my rear one and the older links? Reason for this is i and a friend of mine with such a frame did some measurement and his frame had a little higher BB and a little steeper HT angle and it all looked like it's coming from the linkages. I have no idea why....
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Tyre clearance means you can't run your saddle slammed on Small or Medium Sunday's
A properly slammed saddle on a Large is just above where the tyre buzzes the saddle at full compression.
Find a low stack saddle and a seatpost with a short stack height for the saddle clamp.
A properly slammed saddle on a Large is just above where the tyre buzzes the saddle at full compression.
Find a low stack saddle and a seatpost with a short stack height for the saddle clamp.
- If you're over 5'10 a large will probably fit better
- If you're under 5'10 you don't need a large (172cm = 5'8 = don't need a large)
- The seat tube gusset on the L is hideous but I'd deal with it if needed for a bike that fits
- The rearends and links are all the same, so any differences are likely just measurement error (it's hard to measure frames accurately unless you use a proper measuring jig with all components removed), but I have seen small variations in frames due to welding/tube inconsistencies. These are usually very minor.
Sauce: owned multiple M and L Sunday frames. I definitely preferred the L (at 6'0) and anyone over 5'10 will find the same unless you like wearing shoes that are too small. FYI @Gary Sam Hill had a custom frame for his later years on the Sunday (07-08), which had the reach/stack/WB of a large and the seat tube + gusset from a medium. Sam Hill is 5'10 and his best performances were on the longer bike.
- If you're under 5'10 you don't need a large (172cm = 5'8 = don't need a large)
- The seat tube gusset on the L is hideous but I'd deal with it if needed for a bike that fits
- The rearends and links are all the same, so any differences are likely just measurement error (it's hard to measure frames accurately unless you use a proper measuring jig with all components removed), but I have seen small variations in frames due to welding/tube inconsistencies. These are usually very minor.
Sauce: owned multiple M and L Sunday frames. I definitely preferred the L (at 6'0) and anyone over 5'10 will find the same unless you like wearing shoes that are too small. FYI @Gary Sam Hill had a custom frame for his later years on the Sunday (07-08), which had the reach/stack/WB of a large and the seat tube + gusset from a medium. Sam Hill is 5'10 and his best performances were on the longer bike.
The difference in geometry was visible with a bare eye, no measurement errors whatsoever. Don't know how that was possible...
Kinda what i had in mind regarding the front triangle - reach/stack/WB of an L size, seattube of a M size. As for the gusset, i was wondering if it can be cut and shortened, then rewelded onto the now-also-cut frame (shortened seattube) or if it was better to just remove the gusset, shorten the seattube, and ride it without gusset. But i might just listen to you, guys, and keep riding my own frame. This is just an idea for now, nothing serious (given that L sizes are very hard to get now).
This depends on your saddle. With my ibeam setup (on a large Sunday) I had to slam it forward and tilt it further down than I wanted in order to slam the post height. But I'm only 5'8" and had no trouble riding with the seatpost a few inches up.
True. I guess you think this is just the current fashion trend, but if I spend any time sitting on a bike with a low seat and no dropper, I'm more comfortable with the saddle tilted back from level.
You 5'8' igh and ride a Large size Sunday? How's it going on for you? Any problems?
what about one of the fancy 29er saddles with the cutout?
I rode a large for 2 seasons, and a medium before that. I've moved on to newer bikes, a 2012 demo and a 2015 rune, both large and significantly bigger than my large Sunday was. I have long arms for my height, I've always been more comfortable on longer bikes.
Wow...
11 years later and people are not only still talking about this frame, but riding it as well. I still have my 06' Factory and Elite frames in storage along with all of the mods I've made over the years. The geo and frame specs were definitely ahead of the times when it first debuted back in 05' (65deg. HA, 13.9" BB, 150mm bolt-through rear end, 1.5 HT, etc)
Udi - nice work with this thread; I remember when you were just the new guy around here asking so many questions about this bike.
Here's a little something from the archives:
Sammy in 04' on a pre-production frame - the bottom pic is of him racing the U.S. Open at MCBP, formerly known as Diablo Freeride Park in Vernon, New Jersey.
11 years later and people are not only still talking about this frame, but riding it as well. I still have my 06' Factory and Elite frames in storage along with all of the mods I've made over the years. The geo and frame specs were definitely ahead of the times when it first debuted back in 05' (65deg. HA, 13.9" BB, 150mm bolt-through rear end, 1.5 HT, etc)
Udi - nice work with this thread; I remember when you were just the new guy around here asking so many questions about this bike.
Here's a little something from the archives:
Sammy in 04' on a pre-production frame - the bottom pic is of him racing the U.S. Open at MCBP, formerly known as Diablo Freeride Park in Vernon, New Jersey.
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I've got a friend that had a Sunday and was constantly telling me the Sunday is the best frame out there with regards to its price on the second hand market. Later i believed him when i got my own Sunday. Still have it, although with mods (cut-out central section, -3 angleset for longer wheelbase, lower BB and slacker head angle). It's the tits on the downs, i don't see any reason to upgrade to a newer DH-frame partly because i'm not good enough to get to the limits of the Sunday, partly cause as a weekend-warrior with a family i find better ways to spend diffferent amounts of money, partly cause getting into the 30-years-old club now has me think about a little lighter bikes.
Only reason for me to sell the Sunday would be to get a more universal frame, something in the super-enduro/freeride (or the more modern "park frame" name nowadays) class.