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Does this dropper post make me look fat? AKA - Which droppers don't suck?

sbabuser

Turbo Monkey
Dec 22, 2004
1,114
55
Golden, CO
My problem with the og RS remote was throw is too long. I've got a RF 1x that works fine, even with the ridges. The RS 1x is pretty nice, and after some futzing with position, I like the CB Highline remote, too. The biggest win for the CB design (besides that it's been completely trouble free thus far) is that the pinch bolt end of the cable is at the remote. The dehy would've been a lot easier to set up if they would've done that.
 

Jm_

sled dog's bollocks
Jan 14, 2002
18,855
9,560
AK
x-post from that other website. Interestingly, they are pretty against using the fiber-grip paste over there are Bikeyoke, but with any dropper I've ever used I've found it necessary.

I did two lower-leg services today. Here are my notes:

Seatpost 1:

This is a 160, it was about time for service, although our conditions are extremely harsh in the summer often, lots of mud and muck in the early and late season, so that might account for any accelerated wear. It got a little junky right towards the end of the season.

There was some external corrosion on the external tube. This wasn't completely unexpected, the bike it's on doesn't have a seal at the internal routing hole, which is on the lower seat-tube. I'd imagine some moisture gets in here through the BB and this hole, although I usually try to keep a bead of silicone on it to minimize what can get in. This also goes back to the "fiber grip" carbon grease, but as I stated earlier, I haven't had good luck with trying to tighten dropper posts, they either slip or bind in the action, it's an imperfect system until the post is integrated into the frame (yuck) or incorporates some kind of collar with plastic spacers that we could stack to prevent slippage.

Anyway, this proceeded well, everything pretty much like clockwork according to the video. Only issue I noticed internally was the long skinny rod that is pushed by the external lever had some corrosion on it.

Seatpost 2:

This one was admittedly overdue for service. It's a 125mm. It has "felt" smooth the entire time and possibly lulled me into a false sense of security. This is a "generation one", it has directional pins. I did not notice directional pins on the one above. This one is significantly older than the 160. I don't ride this bike "as much" as the one up top, but this one I XC race, including several 100 mile races.

Externally though, this looked great. No corrosion issues on the outside.

Right off the bat, I ran into problems, after removing the first C-clip, the external tube would not budge. I had to use a piece of PVC pipe with a diameter bigger than the inner tube to pound it back. Once I did manage to break it free, I liberally applied grease on both sides, it wouldn't slide off right away and I had to work it a bit. Once I did, I also noticed that the foam ring was warped, about half was on one side of the o-ring and half on the other side, rather than below it. Getting the tube off and the pins out, I noticed some corrosion on the silver metal piece that is left of the black tube and where the brass pins reside:



2nd pic is poor, sorry, but you can see the white corrosion a little better:



Interestingly, that same silver rod that is pushed by the external lever was completely perfect on this dropper, so that part was strange.

Obviously, I should not let the post go so far and not service it, I take full responsibility for that. The other thing to think of is that just because it seems smooth does not mean everything is ok. This post appears to use some dissimilar metals that have galvanic potential. It appears the slots where the pins rest are not annodized, so that may be contributing to the corrosion issue. Rebuilt these both feel very nice. The lower service is pretty straightforward though and easy to do as far as steps. I guess I was expecting to find a lot of gummed up grease residue, which I did find some, but I wasn't expecting the internal corrosion.
 

StiHacka

Compensating for something
Jan 4, 2013
21,560
12,504
In hell. Welcome!
x-post from that other website. Interestingly, they are pretty against using the fiber-grip paste over there are Bikeyoke, but with any dropper I've ever used I've found it necessary.

I did two lower-leg services today. Here are my notes:

Seatpost 1:

This is a 160, it was about time for service, although our conditions are extremely harsh in the summer often, lots of mud and muck in the early and late season, so that might account for any accelerated wear. It got a little junky right towards the end of the season.

There was some external corrosion on the external tube. This wasn't completely unexpected, the bike it's on doesn't have a seal at the internal routing hole, which is on the lower seat-tube. I'd imagine some moisture gets in here through the BB and this hole, although I usually try to keep a bead of silicone on it to minimize what can get in. This also goes back to the "fiber grip" carbon grease, but as I stated earlier, I haven't had good luck with trying to tighten dropper posts, they either slip or bind in the action, it's an imperfect system until the post is integrated into the frame (yuck) or incorporates some kind of collar with plastic spacers that we could stack to prevent slippage.

Anyway, this proceeded well, everything pretty much like clockwork according to the video. Only issue I noticed internally was the long skinny rod that is pushed by the external lever had some corrosion on it.

Seatpost 2:

This one was admittedly overdue for service. It's a 125mm. It has "felt" smooth the entire time and possibly lulled me into a false sense of security. This is a "generation one", it has directional pins. I did not notice directional pins on the one above. This one is significantly older than the 160. I don't ride this bike "as much" as the one up top, but this one I XC race, including several 100 mile races.

Externally though, this looked great. No corrosion issues on the outside.

Right off the bat, I ran into problems, after removing the first C-clip, the external tube would not budge. I had to use a piece of PVC pipe with a diameter bigger than the inner tube to pound it back. Once I did manage to break it free, I liberally applied grease on both sides, it wouldn't slide off right away and I had to work it a bit. Once I did, I also noticed that the foam ring was warped, about half was on one side of the o-ring and half on the other side, rather than below it. Getting the tube off and the pins out, I noticed some corrosion on the silver metal piece that is left of the black tube and where the brass pins reside:



2nd pic is poor, sorry, but you can see the white corrosion a little better:



Interestingly, that same silver rod that is pushed by the external lever was completely perfect on this dropper, so that part was strange.

Obviously, I should not let the post go so far and not service it, I take full responsibility for that. The other thing to think of is that just because it seems smooth does not mean everything is ok. This post appears to use some dissimilar metals that have galvanic potential. It appears the slots where the pins rest are not annodized, so that may be contributing to the corrosion issue. Rebuilt these both feel very nice. The lower service is pretty straightforward though and easy to do as far as steps. I guess I was expecting to find a lot of gummed up grease residue, which I did find some, but I wasn't expecting the internal corrosion.

I've just ordered spare parts from BY.de and will service mine as soon they arrive. Where did you source the thin 7mm wrench? Did you release air from the spring before taking it apart? The video shows that step but the instructions advise against that so I am just curious.
 

Jm_

sled dog's bollocks
Jan 14, 2002
18,855
9,560
AK
I've just ordered spare parts from BY.de and will service mine as soon they arrive. Where did you source the thin 7mm wrench? Did you release air from the spring before taking it apart? The video shows that step but the instructions advise against that so I am just curious.
I took my digital calipers with me to the hardware store. A stand-alone 7mm wrench was fine, it was right at 4mm if I recall, which is what Bikeyoke calls for. Brand says "Master" on it and I got it at Ace Hardware I think. I did not let the air out, worked just fine. There doesn't seem to be any reason to unless you are going to re-bleed the cartridge.
 

StiHacka

Compensating for something
Jan 4, 2013
21,560
12,504
In hell. Welcome!
x-post from that other website. Interestingly, they are pretty against using the fiber-grip paste over there are Bikeyoke, but with any dropper I've ever used I've found it necessary.

I did two lower-leg services today. Here are my notes:

Seatpost 1:

This is a 160, it was about time for service, although our conditions are extremely harsh in the summer often, lots of mud and muck in the early and late season, so that might account for any accelerated wear. It got a little junky right towards the end of the season.

There was some external corrosion on the external tube. This wasn't completely unexpected, the bike it's on doesn't have a seal at the internal routing hole, which is on the lower seat-tube. I'd imagine some moisture gets in here through the BB and this hole, although I usually try to keep a bead of silicone on it to minimize what can get in. This also goes back to the "fiber grip" carbon grease, but as I stated earlier, I haven't had good luck with trying to tighten dropper posts, they either slip or bind in the action, it's an imperfect system until the post is integrated into the frame (yuck) or incorporates some kind of collar with plastic spacers that we could stack to prevent slippage.

Anyway, this proceeded well, everything pretty much like clockwork according to the video. Only issue I noticed internally was the long skinny rod that is pushed by the external lever had some corrosion on it.

Seatpost 2:

This one was admittedly overdue for service. It's a 125mm. It has "felt" smooth the entire time and possibly lulled me into a false sense of security. This is a "generation one", it has directional pins. I did not notice directional pins on the one above. This one is significantly older than the 160. I don't ride this bike "as much" as the one up top, but this one I XC race, including several 100 mile races.

Externally though, this looked great. No corrosion issues on the outside.

Right off the bat, I ran into problems, after removing the first C-clip, the external tube would not budge. I had to use a piece of PVC pipe with a diameter bigger than the inner tube to pound it back. Once I did manage to break it free, I liberally applied grease on both sides, it wouldn't slide off right away and I had to work it a bit. Once I did, I also noticed that the foam ring was warped, about half was on one side of the o-ring and half on the other side, rather than below it. Getting the tube off and the pins out, I noticed some corrosion on the silver metal piece that is left of the black tube and where the brass pins reside:



2nd pic is poor, sorry, but you can see the white corrosion a little better:



Interestingly, that same silver rod that is pushed by the external lever was completely perfect on this dropper, so that part was strange.

Obviously, I should not let the post go so far and not service it, I take full responsibility for that. The other thing to think of is that just because it seems smooth does not mean everything is ok. This post appears to use some dissimilar metals that have galvanic potential. It appears the slots where the pins rest are not annodized, so that may be contributing to the corrosion issue. Rebuilt these both feel very nice. The lower service is pretty straightforward though and easy to do as far as steps. I guess I was expecting to find a lot of gummed up grease residue, which I did find some, but I wasn't expecting the internal corrosion.
Just serviced my 160mm Revive and replaced the outer tube with a larger diameter one. Super easy job. No corrosion in mine but the upper bushing shows signs of wear. Interestingly, the brass keys were slightly bent, both the old and the new ones. It is now smooth and like new again.