Best 26" downhill fork if weight was no issue?
- Thread starter Dh builder
- Start date
Posting it here because it seems pretty closely related. Has anyone done an air conversion on a Fox 40? I'm starting with a 2016 performance series that's been updated with the RC2 damper. Question is about whether or not I need to replace the coil/air side stanchion. The Fox tech seemed to suggest it due to potential wear from the spring as well as the replacement stanchion having "dimples" for some reason.
(Yes, I know that the air spring is arguably a performance downgrade but at this point I'm tired enough of battling the spring rattle to give it a try).
(Yes, I know that the air spring is arguably a performance downgrade but at this point I'm tired enough of battling the spring rattle to give it a try).
Hi, yes you must replace the stanchion, because the dimples in the new one pressurises the negative air spring, without the dimples it will work, but the fork will be too hard to compress.
Dangit. Thanks for the help. Dimpled stanchion is black ano and my other one is silver. Could be a very interesting stylistic choice.
Have you tried wrapping your spring? I swapped wrappers from other springs onto my current spring and it quelled the noise
I tried a longer piece of shrinkwrap as well as a plastic cap on the top of the spring to keep it centered. Might have been some improvement but it's never been truly quiet and usually over the course of a day of riding it gets worse. Definitely open to alternate suggestions. Setup on the vorsprung soring conversion looks pretty slick.
The original spring stanchion won't work simply because the spring would scratch the inner surface, preventing the seals from doing their work properly.
On the plus side, if there's a good gouge where the piston sits at topout, it might serve the function of the negative chamber equalization dimple okay.
Good bye small bump compliance hello "quiet" fork that's too hard then too soft then too hard....
The answer is 1.5" shrink tube for most of the length of the spring...
The answer is 1.5" shrink tube for most of the length of the spring...
Yup, might suck. Willing to try it and will keep the coil setup in case I hate it. Will also try a longer heat shrink tube. Any suggested variety/heat shrink material?
I have an '18 Boxxer WC I'm listing... $500 +
There is another thing I forgot, the newer stanchion have different inner diameter than the old ones, so the piston for the air spring will not fit
The trick for switching new forks back and forth is..
Swap stanchion sides,
Take an air fork, throw a coil in it, if you need to go back to air from some reason, switch the coil fubared stanchion to the damper side, use the damper side stanchion for the air piston.
Ps, if you did have a non butted tube without a dimple perhaps a mrp fulfill system could be employed for an adjustable negative spring
Swap stanchion sides,
Take an air fork, throw a coil in it, if you need to go back to air from some reason, switch the coil fubared stanchion to the damper side, use the damper side stanchion for the air piston.
Ps, if you did have a non butted tube without a dimple perhaps a mrp fulfill system could be employed for an adjustable negative spring