For light(er) tires I was running the 2.2 Hot S with a 2.35 folding bead IRC Kujo (old tire). The front was meh, but the 2.2 Hot S has wicked traction as a rear tire. I'd combine it with anything on a Single Speed.
Running DH casings now. I use a 2.5 Maxxis Highroller (Sticky in the wet...
Balfa Minute Man w/ 410mm Thompson post, Mavic 321 wheels, 2.7/2.3 tires, Saint Cranks, Funn Rigid fork (freaking tank fork) corrected for 5" SC... total weight ~ 35 pounds.
My bike weighs a ton for an SS. I use a 34-21 and I can still make all the major local climbs except Burke (hike 80%)...
It's what I run. I use a standard front MTB chainring (It's actually a very stiff, rampless, Shimano Saint freeride ring... its pure awesome) and a recycled mtb cogset (basically a three cogs respaced to make a cog sandwich). No problems mating the KMC to the MTB parts.
My SS weighs ~35...
You can't stretch the steer tube or add to it so you're looking at buying a new crown/steerer assembly. Whether you buy it at go-ride or otherwise.
One item to note. If you buy a used lower crown that is pre-'05 you'll lose quite a bit of turning radius.
My experience with Maestro (Giants VPP design) has been superb with both the Trance and Reign models. No issue with the forged "cut-out" for the shock.
The look of the bike is so-so but I think the super low center of gravity is impressive, and the price-for-spec is awesome.
I wish they...
I'm sorry... why are you covering a high end anodized finish (which you paid extra for in the price of your bike compared to powder coat BTW) with spray paint?
I mean its one thing to take a $300 BMX bike and make it look like ****, but not only are you screwing up a really nice finish you're...
Damn... I've been looking for an older model track bike to use as a townie... never have any luck... though I saw a guy the other day who had just bought a colagno fixie for $100 in good shape... meh
I'd avoid the DJ series. They are Pig heavy and the damping system is pretty tired. They are good reliable forks but dollar to dollar there are better forks out there.
In the same position I'd probably purchase one of the lowest end (steel steer tube) Rock Shox Pike forks.
With the Rock...
RockShox Pike with U-turn?
I'm not a RS fan. But the Pike's are fairly light weight, basically have a 20mm axle (QR Maxle thingy) and with U-turn the spring rate doesn't get all wonky like the travel adjust feature on the Manitou forks.
Magura is now THE Hydraulic rim brake maker. So if you saw Hydraulic rim brakes they were Magura.
I've never seen a well enforced (as in on a Freeride HT) Disk tab rip off due to trials type riding; however, I have seen the tabs on a couple Hayes brake calipers crack from the, afore...
As far as I'm aware, with the exception of the gravity droppers, there are no telescoping seat posts smaller then 30.0. This is for the simple fact that you need to be able to fit one seat post inside another, and not even an old school BMX 22.2 post will fit inside a 27.2
*shrugs* could be...
Just about everyone I talked to with an MRD X-works Dorado 203mm sent it to Manitou (or the local service centre) and recieved the fork back as a 180mm TPC+ Dorado.
I'd call your local distributor again
Big problem with the Marzocchi models (and possibly some of the others?) is that you can't use spacers above the fork crown so you can't leave extra some extra length to vary stem height (and for resale of your fork).
If I was buying an XC-Trail Bike I'd definitely consider a Blur. For a DH bike I'd buy a (slightly used) Balfa BB7 in a second (that is a high single pivot???). They pedal just as well as any other 8" travel bikes out there but use a mechanical means (chain pulley) instead of relying solely on...
The Blur pedals a lot better then the longer travel designs which is where most the hype comes from. My GF is riding a Trance (from Giant) with a longer travel fork this year and it pedals awesome.
With the longer travel VPP bikes a lot of how it pedals is going to depend on how you set up...
http://www.pinkbike.com/modules/news/?op=articleview&id=1117
Find a place that can tell you, for sure, what kind of aluminum alloy it is first.
Some alloys need to be heat treated some don't.
Pay someone who knows what they are doing to weld/heattreat it for you.
Ride on.
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