That's how I am with any bikes by Giant. There's something that doesn't work with me. But when I mentioned it on here it was my fault and some made up bullshit that the bike was "clapped out", despite all Giants I ride feel like shit. To each their own.
See, I was the other guy. In the early 2000's I found an inexpensive place to rent, had 2 jobs and my 89 Toyota pickup had 246,000 miles on it. I had to budget food, bills and gas, rarely went out to eat/drink, didn't have a dish or cable. But I raced in the Mid-Atlantic Super Series every...
I've paid the price to get shocks tuned.
I'll pay the price for "Made in the USA" or the UK.
But at the end of the day, this is a fork. It moves up and down.
There's no suspension curves or anti-squat. Right? How does it perform on my local trails? What makes this fork different besides...
Knee-jerk-written-articles about how pretty mountain biking gear is. Never rode it, but made it a point to write about how awesome it will be. It looks cute too.
Sram brake question. When you're asking "how long is the lever?". Are you referring to the length of the lever or how many weeks till you have to warranty it?
Lever too long?
I could read your post because I'm not at work. Why would I "click the link" to buy one now when I told you that I made one a week ago? Pointless, right?
But it's good to know that the 5" thick catalog differs from their online inventory.
Since we can't be online or on our phones at work, so we searched the McMaster catalog and didn't see anything in there.
Amazon only has the Park one and an "Owl" brand set. Everything else is a typical set up to 10mm.
I'm sure it would work great for an oil change. But I'm not changing oil. I'm working on a one-off mountain bike shock. It's too short. Needs to be at least 2.5-3" long.
Trek had a special shock on their 2020 Fuel that used a trunion mount up top and a yolk mount down bottom. It requires a special tool to do basic maintenance (so it seemed) that sells for 70 fucking dollars.
https://www.modernbike.com/fox-shox-15mm-hex-body-bearing-clevis-torque-tool-3-8-drive...
I haven't worked on one of these shocks yet with the yolk on the bottom. What's generally required to remove them? Is it a bolt into the stanchion or is it threaded on? Thanks
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