I'd like to re-affirm sentiments already echoed in this thread.
Despite reading on RM not to run the Butcher SX tubeless, with people saying that it is dangerous, I decided to do it anyways. Well, it didn't work out. I blew the rear off the rim at 35psi landing a little sideways on a hip jump...
I'm having much the same problem after switching from organic to sitered pads on my Codes. Ran this rotor for 3 years with organics and the power is worse, and lever pressure required is greater. Have sanded the rotor and pads twice now to no avail. Just wish there were another way to figure out...
Out of the box they're not bad. Harsh on chatter and high velocity hits, and you have to run the rebound fairly fast in beginning stroke (parking lot) to keep end stroke from packing up due to being a ported damper.
I recently dove into my compression damper and ended up making the fork feel...
Hahaha that pic is wild!
I just looked at a Telonics, and damn that is actually a decent looking tire. So you guys said they get squirmy when on hardpack?
The changeup to 150 on a demo was purely to follow the trend for Specialized.
Anyone who has riden an older 135 demo has never complained about a flexy rear end that I've ever heard/read. Mine is stiffer than many 150mm rear end bikes I've riden.
Haha no agenda. Doesn't everyone who nerds out on technical stuff form an opinion? I have no more than you, just different.
My comment was "half in jest, whole in ernest".
I think the "pulsing" that a 9t sprocket offers though would be a much more perceptible feature than the increas in...
Yeah I had a bubble that I just did a quick bleed on about a month ago to get rid of. The line feels rock solid now and doesn't "pump up" when you flip the bike upside down or anything. However, it is literally impossible to get rid of every bubble in these brakes so I bet there's one hiding out...
Seems weird, no?
Codes are about a year old, still on stock fluid. Have some Motul 5.1 that I'm going to put in there tonight which should help. The brakes have considerably more power now, but at the end of a really steep, ~3 minute run, they start fading.
I suppose it makes sense that...
It should also be noted that 2010 and 2011 dampers must be upgraded in pairs. You have to buy the 2011 compression damper as well as the rebound damper. 2011 rebound damper alone will not fit with 2010 compression damper.
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