the float X is a nice looking shock inside, bonus points for ease of changing stroke. still has the same (?) chromed steel shaft that seemed to cause the issues in the dpx2 however. the jury is still out on that one. for what its worth i get along great with any flavor of the rs super deluxe...
I prefer BTI for lots of components, but not so much for drivetrain parts. J&B is pretty great for Maxxis rubber. QBP is a gigantic catch-all, and has the best website for ease of use. These days it would probably be a good idea to have multiple accounts so you can get what you need in the small...
These pistons finally showed up; machining and seal quality seemed really good. Installation was no problem, but it was a bit tricky to fit the new oil seals and to find the right snap ring pliers to pull the old m/c piston. My Knipex set was too large, but the cheap (quality not price) Park set...
Fingers crossed the Knipex snap ring pliers are fit for the job. I've heard its a finicky piece to access. But...one of the most satisfying tools to use, right behind the hammer.
For a while there they were comping us at the shop stacks of chains and brake pads to perform the warranty service, but unfortunately that program is over for the Guides, as all of the affected levers are 3+ years old at this point. Caught me by surprise when that happened, as it was standard...
Got to exploring aliexpress after reading this thread, and coincidentally the Guide RS master cylinder on my hardtail failed while sitting in a cold garage. I had seen the Risk titanium lever piston kits on aliX, and am going to give them a try. Looks like there are several version of this...
Needles did an awesome job commentating during Crankworx or something last year, very insightful and informative. I hope the alleged course preview is a step toward getting in the booth with Warner.
So instead of a stiffer fork, we get a stiffer wheel, which will likely exasperate the flexy fork even more. Awesome, thanks for that. Why exactly is it that several World Cup riders are looking for MORE flex out of their wheels (i.e. bladed spokes for the Gstaad-Scott team, or Marshy running...
A 142 hub is basically a 135 but with a 3.5mm extension on either end that "nests" in the shoulders in the frame. This makes aligning the wheel during installation easier. To accommodate the shoulders, you basically add 7mm to the "old" hub widths. Thusly a 150 hub became a 157. And by that...
@ Banj...It's a slightly different back panel, looks to improve ventilation compared to the one above (and perhaps the same as the Apex this year). I am a big fan of the Nomad design and organization, and I think the mesh back would make it about perfect. I think I'll hold out and see what...
I just got a current year Nomad, and it does NOT have an mesh panel to hold the pack away from my back. In fact, it is another molded foam deal, not unlike the older Nomad pack I had before. I purchased it hoping to get an mesh panel...but that looks to be on the Drafter and Amp series packs...
also keep in mind that effective top tube length and actual top tube length are two completely different measurements, while "reach" is an other dimension entirely
My biggest complaint with the Lezyne floor pump is that you can easily hit the bleed valve when unscrewing the threaded valve. Kinda offsets the accurate gauge if you aren't careful with your fingers.
From personal experience, those aren't the most durable pedals. Mine warped substantially from a rock impact, and a friend broke the body of his lengthwise along the spindle...clean in half.
In Colorado we get lots of sunny days at high altitude so a visor to keep that off your face makes a lot of sense. Lots of big mountain rippers around here run D2/D3s full face.
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