I’ve been thinking about this a bit as well. Rails close to the rear of the saddle is only part of the picture. The other part is where the saddle sits your butt relative to the rails and this is a bit harder to measure.
I think the new roady style short saddles would be a good option to get...
That's a great idea, thanks! I tried it out on my XT m785 levers. Nice improvement on the rear brake in particular with the levers bent by around 10mm at the tip.
It's got 190mm insertion with a 455mm seat tube. I have a 365/125 Revive on mine and can only just achieve the 700mm saddle height I need as the actuator at the bottom of the post interferes with the pivot through the seat tube. A 385/125 Reverb also works for me.
I think a coil with some...
Here's a quick garage photo. It's built up with a 170mm Vengeance Coil, Monarch Plus, XT/XTR drivetrain and ancient SLX cranks. Wheels are ARC27s on Hope Pro4s. Also has a -2 degree angleset.
I moved from a second gen Spitfire to this, and transferred across the DB Inline until it failed...
I don't think I have posted here for years but this water bottle talk has me excited.
I recently moved to a house with trails behind the back fence and got sick of filling up a camelbak every time I wanted to go for a quick ride. I went for a pedal one day with just a bottle and it was a...
Yeah but with a spring around the bump stop, it doesn't really have anywhere to go does it?
I'm a bit of a hack rider and even with an undersprung DHX, I never heard any metal on metal bottom outs so I'm assuming that I never actually achieved full travel.
^^^The reservoir pressure curves are interesting. Realistically though, you will never see 1500psi as the bump stop will never compress down to zero. I don't know how much it will compress down to - say 0.25"? If this is the case, then the resi pressure you'd get at bottom out would be...
Yeah you can buy the A/B/C shim kits off ebay for $10.
I changed my vivid over to an A tune. The kit was just for the shim stack on the piston - the low speed shim on the piston bolt and the compression assy in the reservoir were not changed.
Rebuilding them is easy enough but you need an...
I was just about to suggest anti-seize as well. I find it helps if I have a clicky bar/stem interface. Seems a little 'grittier' than grease which may or may not help reduce movement? Can't hurt to give it a go if you have some lying around.
Or perhaps load up the contact surfaces with...
I have just woken up so I might have this backwards, but I always figured the opposite was true - ie a 2 degree slacker change at the steering axis ends up being slightly less in practice for a given length of fork.
Eg. if you sit a stock bike on the ground and fix the frame at the rear...
The Holden utes are great fun - really good ESP calibration, but even with it off they still feel like they have loads of rear traction. They're basically a sports car with a big trunk - if you buy one for load carrying you'll probably be disappointed (not that you can buy one in the US:)) I...
Me too... I was thinking it might be a hydroformed tube with 3-4mm wall thickness at the dropout end, formed into a square cross section. They can then machine out the clevis and drill the bolt hole. This would leave the tube open though, which may or may not be a bad thing.
Thing is, you don't really lose that much of your range with a 9-36 cassette if you choose your front chainring correctly.
eg.
30 chainring with 36 on the back is equivalent to a 22 granny with 26 on the rear (which is the third easiest gear on a 11-34 cassette)
30 chainring with a 9t on...
Great idea for trail bikes imho - I don't understand the negativitiy in this thread. 9-36 with a 28 or 30 up front would be perfect for me.
- Massive range, making the front derailleur redundant
- You can run a chain guide.
- Potentially more ground clearance
- Manufacturers can optimise...
The Float and Van 180 have slightly different dampers - the Van has a hydraulic bottom out system like the 40s, although I'm not sure if it adjustable in the same way as the 40s. I'm guessing Fox figured that it wasn't necessary in the Float as you can achieve a similar effect by adding moar...
All this front derailleur stuff is great but what I'd really like to see is 10sp 9-36 on the back with a 27t or 28t single up front and an appropriately sized bashy and lightweight upper chain guide. Plus dual tap to smash through the gears quickly.
I reckon that would be an awesome trail...
Loctite 680 actually. 609 should work as well and it's more commonly available (at least where i live)
I had the same issue with the drive side bearing on my 06 DHR - you could pop it out by hand. Loctite 680 solved the problem and it's been play free for over two years.
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.