I've been running the Hope rotors with mine and like the 2 piece design. Seems to work really well, haven't had any issues with the rivets coming loose, make a cool pinging sound when they are cooling down and have been amazingly strong. Only had to bend my rotor back into place once in 2 years now.
Ok here is an updated picture of the internals with the rebound removed. Before I didn't have the rebound removed when I was trying to bleed it and when I took the rebound out there was a large amount of oil still inside. Going to run through the 13 steps again and see what happens with the oil...
That would be awesome if you could rebuild yours and tell me what I'm doing wrong here. I just can't see how you can compress the damper rod when the lower leg is filled to the top with oil. Mine won't budge one bit when it is topped off and no oil flows up through the compression ports like I...
So my 05 Dorado needed some love when I got back from vacation today. The damper leg would only compress 4 or 5 inches. I took apart the whole fork as it needed a overhaul anyways however I cannot get the bleeding right on the TPC leg. Here is a picture of all the internals inside the leg ripped...
So my 05 Dorado needed some love when I got back from vacation today. The damper leg would only compress 4 or 5 inches. I took apart the whole fork as it needed a overhaul anyways however I cannot get the bleeding right on the TPC leg. Here is a picture of all the internals inside the leg ripped...
I've been using the Hutchinson Fusion 2's that came stock on my Cannondale for the past 2 years now. 4500km on the pair and only one flat. Pretty square and worn out, and the other day I skidded for 2 feet and ripped some of the rubber off so out shopping for some new tires today.
Hey guys, I wrote up another guide and it is now posted over at: http://www.nsmb.com/gear/shimano_brake_service_03_08.php Hope it helps some of you out over here as well. Looking for suggestions for my next guide so send me a PM if there's something you would like to see written up about.
If you can wait a month or 2 I'll have a guide on how to do it yourself if it is just a rebuild. Or take it to your LBS if they have a good mechanic on staff.
I use a 60/40 solder, and yes BikeMike the acid flux is really what makes this easier. Most cables are stainless steel and without the flux the solder won't take to the cable. Good point about soldering then cutting, going to have to give it a try and see how well it works.
Another month another guide. This time around Im going to show you how to solder your cable ends for a nice clean look on your derailleur cables and brake cables.
I have never liked the cable ends that come on bikes. They tend to come off when they get caught on something, most of them are...
Yes I know stainless cables aren't just for looks.
Thanks for the comments guys, I want to create some more guides, been a mechanic for quite sometime now so just wondering what is lacking for guides out there for people?
Here is a pic of my old KHS Dominatrax, which I think qualifies as obscure although not that old, think I got in 2002? It had the weirdest suspension bob ever.
My new 2005 Giant Team DH being built. Still missing rotors, pedals, headset spacers, and seatpost clamp. Bought it brand new still in the original box. Put on 08 Shimano XT brakes instead of the Hayes, painted the Mavic 729's white, and custom white coated cables.
Here is a how to guide I wrote on changing normal black cables on your bike to pretty much any color you could want. Not only is black boring but the hard coating on the outside of the cables can rub through paint and even aluminum. I have seen a Hayes brake cable eat right through the...
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