I tech-whored it up on the internet. Seems to work, I'm doing better now than I ever have, and I attribute it aaaaaaall to a miniscule improvement in my fork flex.
hahaha, that's like saying your cranks are less than 100% efficient because they flex hysterically and some of your pedalling effort is lost in the material damping. Did you know that wheels are horrendously inefficient because the spokes, like, flex and stuff? :clue:
However, what I said...
Actually in that context it is (referring to the hub efficiency only) - the gears in the hub are not actually moving (ie the ring is effectively locked to the hub outer like a normal rear hub under power), so you only have whatever drag you get from the chain(s); there is no additional loss from...
TT measurements on DH bikes with interrupted/non-BB-intersecting seat tubes are pointless anyway. Work out what the reach is from the chainstay/wheelbase/head angle measurements if you need to, but relying on TT measurements should be left to bikes that you actually sit down on.
Because it would need to be a tapered roller bearing (like car wheel bearings), not a cylindrical roller bearing, since headsets need to deal with massive thrust (axial) loads as well as large radial loads. It would still need at least as large an interface (laterally/radially) as a standard...
How are you guys destroying spokes before rims? Every wheel I've ever killed, without fail, has been due to wrecking the rim rather than the spokes (with the exception of a couple of spoke/derailleur inbreeding incidents). I'm quite surprised that anyone is breaking spokes on a DH bike before...
Yeah, it's a good setup. They roll pretty slowly as rear tyres (well that's my feeling compared to high rollers and minion DHRs) but the lateral grip is arguably the best out there (though I haven't tried any Michy stuff for a couple of years).
Thanks for listening. On any suspended, long travel vehicle (and bicycles most definitely fall into this category), there will and should be some amount of oscillation if you bounce on it. If you set it up so that it doesn't go up past the sag point then your rebound IS too slow, that's not even...
If your rebound is so slow that you don't get ANY oscillation when you bounce on it, that's too slow for sure (technically and in riding terms, that's overdamped). Speed your rebound up, I almost guarantee that's your problem.
Conditions here vary a lot, from mud and loamy **** to sand to dusty as faaaaark. Generally speaking, not a *huge* amount of good hardpack, what hardpack there is on dh tracks is usually covered with plenty of dust and stuff anyway.
Ah.... Manitou DU bushings are 12mm diameter, 5th Element ones are 12.7mm diameter (half inch).... running Manitou reducers in your 5th element won't work properly and it will flog out your 5th DU bush too. Get some new reducers.
Nothing in my boxxer clunks... if it's doing that, sounds like your LSC plate is sticking open like Udi's was.
My MCU didn't go in "easily" as such, you do have to lube it and twist it in. If you do wreck the o-rings though, it doesn't make any real difference to how the fork works (other...
Isn't kinematic engineering kind of a strange way to address anything that relates directly to acceleration? Dynamic engineering would be more appropriate... though kinematic might sound cooler to the masses :p
Having ridden a few high pivot bikes (incl the Lahar) I think they are simply amazing when you're cornering at high speeds and when the ground is rough, as you say. However I did find that they tend to be harder to smack into tight berms because they over-weight the front wheel (relatively...
Going from my SGS to toodles' undersprung Turner back to back on exactly the same track, I could not tell the difference in terms of braking (disclaimer: my shock is a manitou and thus sucks wang, toodles' is a DHX and is much smoother). You want a bike you can feel the braking squat on though...
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