Put a little triflow at the base of the bolt head then heat it with a propane torch til it just starts to smoke. Quick put a t-handle on it and it should come right out.
If the bend is gentle, the spoke can be tightened and the wheel trued. If you have a hard kink then it would be best to replace the spoke as this kink will be a possible failure point.
The other thing is to figure out why the spoke is bent. When the wheel is tensioned up right the spoke is hard...
Have you tried (gently) pumping the lever as you bleed the system. If I remember the instructions, they either say you should not or don't need to but I did once when I had one that did not want to bleed out and "poof" ready to go. I have done it since and never need to rebleed.
Any shop should have a brass adaptor that fits your presta stem and has a schreader end, for around two bucks. There is also a fancy one with a replacable seal for around six, looks like a Silca head.
I have installed it on three customer bikes. They have made no complaints(Putting the jagwire on was their idea), and these guys would if it had given any problems. It is exspensive, some of the banjo fittings are more than $10. The stuff is nice for a sano, custom fitup
Start to finish, (and I use the DT wall chart to get spoke length and I use Spokeprep) it takes about an hour to an hour and a half.
If every thing is laid out and it is a front wheel I can make a rideable wheel in fifteen minutes, this is not one I would put my name on or sell.
Before you build the wheel, install the crank and space the hub to get a good chainline, then build the wheel. It may have no dish but you will probably have a little.
This is not even a real expensive hobby. Calipers for my autocross car: $437(each), pads $70pair, tires(that only last two hundred miles) $120 This car is now someone elses joy/problem.
Any decent shop will have a Stein knurler. Mark your post at the clamp point, to give reference for knurling and take it in. It will only take a few minutes to do.
Please, damping, dampening is when you sprinkle water on it.
Tha fork is pretty simple. If it is not leaking anywhere, just change the oil. First let all the air out, remove the caps, turn it upside down over a BIG pan and then pump it a couple of times to get the oil out of the damper. If it...
You can leave the caliper on the bike, just take the pads out and clean up any spill on the caliper with rubbing alcohol before putting the pads back in. Shimano uses mineral oil so it will not hurt your paint.
You need a crank extractor to remove the crank, like a park ccp-2
You will also need another crank as yours is a riveted crank and is pretty much meant to be tossed when the chain rings wear out. You should be able to get a set of cranks with no chain rings fairly cheap as well as a cheap ring.
Be sure to first pull the dust caps and screws and grease the heck out of everything, then put the screws back in, dust caps on, then unscrew the screws.
The park ccp-4 will also take it off.
If you are really big you might be able to put your feet against the frame, grab the crank and yank it...
Is that a Shimano chain, you are supposed to replace the entire pin with a double length pin that has a guide piece you snap off after installation. You also have to be careful not to push tha guide pin out later as it will oversize the hole in the plate.
Be careful, reusing the shimano pin can...
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