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iRider

Turbo Monkey
Apr 5, 2008
5,648
3,089
the only thing that's tubeless ready in a DH casing that i was able to find last year was the Michelin DH34. and before you have your luddittic temper tantrum they have to be tubeless as i run cushcore for DH.
Every tire is tubeless ready if you are not a bitch. ;)
 

sunringlerider

Turbo Monkey
Oct 30, 2006
3,574
6,267
Corn Fields of Indiana
Started shopping around for lights last night, since when does a person need to spend 2-3k on lights that doesn't race or actually go over 30 mph in the dirt?

I do believe Rigid, Baja designs, ARB, nightforce and a few others have lost their minds.
Had been using Rigid lights on loaders in dairy’s. But have switched to using Larson Lights. I have 300 or so hours on a few different lights they have. Price is right and haven’t let me down yet. I prefer smaller lights I can aim so I have larger angle of view at night vs a large light bar. Granted I’m not wheeling.
 

Adventurous

Starshine Bro
Mar 19, 2014
10,261
8,767
Crawlorado
Same here, I've always run multiple small LED bars over 1 big one, you lose potential lumens from the gap between bars as opposed to 1 solid one, but who cares, still more than I need. Biggest improvement in lighting was learning to turn them off, same as riding MTBs at night, I run minimal light most of the time, and save the high beams for when I'm going fast. That and finding the right mix of color temperatures and mounting locations, I'll take 2 20" bars, one on the roof, one on the bumper over a single 60" every day of the week, that vertical spread makes a huge difference in actually being able to read terrain.

Biggest downside I've seen in the china lights is they come with garbage connectors, and the beam patterns aren't quite as nice. Beyond that, as long as you stick to a clone of a western light so you don't hose yourself on mounting options they're legitimately great.
First thing I do with the China lights is cut off whatever crap connector they've foisted upon me and install a Deutsch DT or Aptiv. Marine heat shrink on the stress points, braidwd sheathing or loom over all wores, dielectric grease on all connections. Never had an issue.
 

iRider

Turbo Monkey
Apr 5, 2008
5,648
3,089
I have some older dhfs that have an in molded texture on the sidewall that prevented them from sealing with the rim.
Interesting. I am converting Maxxis DH tires since 2005-ish (?) and they always sealed. On UST rims as well as taped rims. Never used ghetto tubeless with the 20" inner tube in this application.
 

jimmydean

The Official Meat of Ridemonkey
Sep 10, 2001
40,942
13,135
Portland, OR
The office is moving towards return to office, but had expanded the WFH options. Requests are due by end of May, I sent mine this morning. I told them the Monday/Friday in office was working well since I can attend major sprint activities while still being productive. They bought it, yay. The office move added at least 15 minutes to an already suck commute, so that was a big seller..
 

jonKranked

Detective Dookie
Nov 10, 2005
85,573
24,191
media blackout
Interesting. I am converting Maxxis DH tires since 2005-ish (?) and they always sealed. On UST rims as well as taped rims. Never used ghetto tubeless with the 20" inner tube in this application.
yea, it was just a weird thing. even used an air compressor to make sure the bead was fully seated, and lots of sealant. i got curious and sprayed water around it, it wasn't even like it was a few spots, it was the entire way around the bead on both sides. all i could figure is that it was the texture. out of curiosity, I just went and checked, the same texture is on all the tires i have that are dh casing (regardless of tread compound) - DHFs, swamp things, wet screams. all the non-DH casings I have don't have it, and i never had issues getting them to seal (even non TR ones). edit to add - all these tires are probably circa 2008-2012

1653432878552.png
 

Changleen

Paranoid Member
Jan 9, 2004
14,335
2,448
Hypernormality
I’ve managed to seal most of my tyres too since forages ago. I used to just use a few wraps of electrical tape and Stans, (compressor to seat and then add the Stans) but these days I use real tape (Muc-off and generic blue stuff) and I use Muc-off sealant which I think is a lot better than Stans.
 

iRider

Turbo Monkey
Apr 5, 2008
5,648
3,089
yea, it was just a weird thing. even used an air compressor to make sure the bead was fully seated, and lots of sealant. i got curious and sprayed water around it, it wasn't even like it was a few spots, it was the entire way around the bead on both sides. all i could figure is that it was the texture. out of curiosity, I just went and checked, the same texture is on all the tires i have that are dh casing (regardless of tread compound) - DHFs, swamp things, wet screams. all the non-DH casings I have don't have it, and i never had issues getting them to seal (even non TR ones). edit to add - all these tires are probably circa 2008-2012

View attachment 176834
From the same period as I converted some of mine and they also look similar. :confused: