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6thElement

Schrodinger's Immigrant
Jul 29, 2008
17,228
14,702
There is nothing radder than watching a lifted tacoma with BFGs spin all four wheels trying to get up a driveway with 5" of snow the driver was too lazy to shovel
How did your partner react to you standing there laughing at them?

:D
 

Adventurous

Starshine Bro
Mar 19, 2014
10,850
9,888
Crawlorado
:wave:

Wallet is much lighter now. Came home with a new vanity for the 1/2 bath, pieces to build out the wee one's closet, and a single, $80 oak board.
 

stoney

Part of the unwashed, middle-American horde
Jul 26, 2006
22,002
7,886
Colorado
K1 because 6hrs of study meant I needed a break. Middle of the day on a weekend means Haley is playing with the regular kids on a likely full track, so some results are expected.

Angry Dad: Is her kart faster? How is she 6sec faster than every other kid on this track?
Track Employee: Yes. She was #2 in the race league last year and is .001sec off our track record, so we let her have a faster kart.
Angry Dad: Can you make their karts faster?
Track Employee: [shrugs shoulders] Sure.
[Haley still laps entire field twice and wins with 3.5sec faster laps.]
Angry dad: :shakefist:

Back to study.
 

Adventurous

Starshine Bro
Mar 19, 2014
10,850
9,888
Crawlorado
I used to be able to get 2"X12"x12' rough quarter sawn oak boards from riding buddy who owned a tree company. Wish I had taken more advantage of that.
I keep seeing Alaskan sawmills pop up on marketplace for cheap money. Tempted to grab one and do something with all the downed hardwood on my property, but it probably isn't worth it.

Good lumber is expensive. Sadly.
 

stoney

Part of the unwashed, middle-American horde
Jul 26, 2006
22,002
7,886
Colorado
I keep seeing Alaskan sawmills pop up on marketplace for cheap money. Tempted to grab one and do something with all the downed hardwood on my property, but it probably isn't worth it.

Good lumber is expensive. Sadly.
Downed hardwood needs to be dealt with within 1-2 weeks max. You could probably find someone that would gladly do 1 tree for you, for every 2 you give them.
 

HardtailHack

used an iron once
Jan 20, 2009
7,748
7,096
Rode some proper XC trail that was uncomfortable(for me) without a dropper, drank beer, ate venison, was good.
 

jimmydean

The Official Meat of Ridemonkey
Sep 10, 2001
43,084
15,175
Portland, OR
I bought one of those for my wife as a "buy it for life" item. It needed some repairs which we never did, and ended up giving it away. It was built like a small tank.
The gal that gave the class does repair and restorations. She changes $25 to fix most everything unless parts are needed.

After looking online, $150 for that machine is actually a deal. But I doubt I will use my plastic one for enough projects to brake it. But if I do, I know where to get a good one.
 

Jozz

Joe Dalton
Apr 18, 2002
6,158
7,859
SADL
I think I'm going to see if the bike will limp through the winter and then I'll start looking for a new one.

Something with a proper through axle...
Check for used Mayor if you're looking for summer bike geo.

Edit: Or RM Blizzard with the TA.
 

6thElement

Schrodinger's Immigrant
Jul 29, 2008
17,228
14,702
I think I'm going to see if the bike will limp through the winter and then I'll start looking for a new one.

Something with a proper through axle...
Is yours 190QR?
If yes, that's a terrible choice for the width of a fat bike hub and companies speccing that should be beaten.

I wonder if they do a long enough DT Swiss RWS to work with 10mm TA end caps. That's what I have on one of my bikes that's 135mm QR drop outs.

edit: I may have another Hope HG freehub I can sell you if you can swap the ring on that hub
 
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canadmos

Cake Tease
May 29, 2011
21,977
21,506
Canaderp
Check for used Mayor if you're looking for summer bike geo.

Edit: Or RM Blizzard with the TA.
An RSD is at the top of the short list.

A Giant Yukon might do as well.


Is yours 190QR?
If yes, that's a terrible choice for the width of a fat bike hub and companies speccing that should be beaten.

I wonder if they do a long enough DT Swiss RWS to work with 10mm TA end caps. That's what I have on one of my bikes that's 135mm QR drop outs.
Yeah it is 190QR. :(

If I remember correctly, I got the bike in 2018 and right around then is when most bikes flipped over to 197mm with through axles. Unfortunately I was on the short end of that change...

Will look into that DT Swiss RWS though.

I think the QR, combined with skinny seat stays is allowing there to be too much flex and the hub is suffering because of that.

::edit:: no go on the DT Swiss. And thinking about this, I'd also need end caps for the hub, which Hope doesn't appear to offer - they only have ones that convert it to 197mm width.

I think I'm going to order some pawls and just limp it through the season and see what happens. Worst comes to worst, I just find a cheap rear wheel and sell the bike.

I am going to send a note to Hope and ask if pawls should explode. Maybe they'll feel generous and replace the hub?
 
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6thElement

Schrodinger's Immigrant
Jul 29, 2008
17,228
14,702
No idea if they do them long enough for a 190mm hub, I've been running mine instead of qr since 2011, just needs the different end caps.

qr259a00.jpg
 

6thElement

Schrodinger's Immigrant
Jul 29, 2008
17,228
14,702
::edit:: no go on the DT Swiss. And thinking about this, I'd also need end caps for the hub, which Hope doesn't appear to offer - they only have ones that convert it to 197mm width.
Pro4 or Pro2 EVO?

They might not advertise it I guess if there's no supporting axle from anyone, but #14 and #17 definitely exist for my Pro2 (which was converted to EVO axle so I could use an XD freehub).
 

chuffer

Turbo Monkey
Sep 2, 2004
1,794
1,142
McMinnville, OR
Downed hardwood needs to be dealt with within 1-2 weeks max. You could probably find someone that would gladly do 1 tree for you, for every 2 you give them.
Really? What do you mean by “dealt with”? We’ve been told (by a local guy who mills oregon white oak) to buck it to 20’, scrape it, stack it and cover it. Seal the ends, spray it for termites every 6 months and let it cure for 1 year per four inches of diameter before milling. We were also told we could let em sit until summer.

Planning to buy a 36” Alaskan mill and do the doug firs myself, but will probably rent or borrow a saw to start with. You need such a big bar and motor (expensive) to run a mill that the mill itself isn’t really where the cost is…

Anyone here ever use an Alaskan? Looks “easy” but slow and loud? @jbp @gff @sunringlerider @stoney
 

sunringlerider

Wood fluffer
Oct 30, 2006
4,300
7,912
Corn Fields of Indiana
Really? What do you mean by “dealt with”? We’ve been told (by a local guy who mills oregon white oak) to buck it to 20’, scrape it, stack it and cover it. Seal the ends, spray it for termites every 6 months and let it cure for 1 year per four inches of diameter before milling. We were also told we could let em sit until summer.

Planning to buy a 36” Alaskan mill and do the doug firs myself, but will probably rent or borrow a saw to start with. You need such a big bar and motor (expensive) to run a mill that the mill itself isn’t really where the cost is…

Anyone here ever use an Alaskan? Looks “easy” but slow and loud? @jbp @gff @sunringlerider @stoney
Ya I usually let hardwoods lay for a year or so. I’ve got some salvaged white oaks that are 3 years since cut. Milled into beautiful boards.
I have a 48” Alaskan mill. It’s a work out but with super sharp chains it’s not bad. Depends on the moisture content of the log on how easy it mills. Those old oaks were like cutting concrete. A fairly green log will cut like butter. My 660 has a ported and polished head and jetted carb with exhaust. All depends on how fast you want to cut. In my experience the slower you go the smoother the cut. Also a good square shoulder on your chain helps too.
I like Anchorseal2 End sealer. I’ll coat all logs with that. Then apply a little more after milling.
 

canadmos

Cake Tease
May 29, 2011
21,977
21,506
Canaderp
Pro4 or Pro2 EVO?

They might not advertise it I guess if there's no supporting axle from anyone, but #14 and #17 definitely exist for my Pro2 (which was converted to EVO axle so I could use an XD freehub).
Its a Hope Pro 4.

I wonder if the end caps are different?

I think, maybe, they are the same? Given other end caps reference both the Pro 2 Evo and Pro 4. Though the part numbers for lets say the QR end caps are different. Actually they don't appear to be..
 
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stoney

Part of the unwashed, middle-American horde
Jul 26, 2006
22,002
7,886
Colorado
Really? What do you mean by “dealt with”? We’ve been told (by a local guy who mills oregon white oak) to buck it to 20’, scrape it, stack it and cover it. Seal the ends, spray it for termites every 6 months and let it cure for 1 year per four inches of diameter before milling. We were also told we could let em sit until summer.

Planning to buy a 36” Alaskan mill and do the doug firs myself, but will probably rent or borrow a saw to start with. You need such a big bar and motor (expensive) to run a mill that the mill itself isn’t really where the cost is…

Anyone here ever use an Alaskan? Looks “easy” but slow and loud? @jbp @gff @sunringlerider @stoney
Lots of people want old hardwood, because they can sell it for good profit or use it for their work. If you have a bunch of trees in need of cutting, you can likely "pay" someone to get them off the property or get one cut and prepped for you, by giving them a few trees. If there are a shit ton of trees like that locally, you'll get less options there, but if you have a bunch of trees and only want 1-2, a lot of guys will take the trade.
 

chuffer

Turbo Monkey
Sep 2, 2004
1,794
1,142
McMinnville, OR
Ya I usually let hardwoods lay for a year or so. I’ve got some salvaged white oaks that are 3 years since cut. Milled into beautiful boards.
I have a 48” Alaskan mill. It’s a work out but with super sharp chains it’s not bad. Depends on the moisture content of the log on how easy it mills. Those old oaks were like cutting concrete. A fairly green log will cut like butter. My 660 has a ported and polished head and jetted carb with exhaust. All depends on how fast you want to cut. In my experience the slower you go the smoother the cut. Also a good square shoulder on your chain helps too.
I like Anchorseal2 End sealer. I’ll coat all logs with that. Then apply a little more after milling.
I did a quick google search after my post and the intarwebz say that @stoney is probably right.

However, I am happy to hear you’ve been able to mill after a year. My oak trees are sitting in stacks surrounded by 4’ of mud. I won’t be able to get to them until June.

I figured a 660 was probably the minimum for milling. I’ll probably start with something small and soft - like some 24” dougs.
 

chuffer

Turbo Monkey
Sep 2, 2004
1,794
1,142
McMinnville, OR
Lots of people want old hardwood, because they can sell it for good profit or use it for their work. If you have a bunch of trees in need of cutting, you can likely "pay" someone to get them off the property or get one cut and prepped for you, by giving them a few trees. If there are a shit ton of trees like that locally, you'll get less options there, but if you have a bunch of trees and only want 1-2, a lot of guys will take the trade.
We just did a bunch of land clearing. Goals were to reduce fire danger, improve / protect some legacy trees and tree stands and to open a few acres to plant grapes. I’ve probably got a half dozen mid sized (24”) oaks and 3 dozen mid size dougs (all too knotty for commercial mills).

We found some old oaks that are 40”+ and some stands of dougs not quite as big. Left all of those standing…

eta: out here unless you’ve got multiple truck loads of commercially viable trees, you can’t even get someone to talk to you. I just want to use all those trees for something more than firewood…