[Spec8in561]

Anyone have pricing for a 66 RC or know who will be selling them?

 

[Brian Peterson]

Yes, that was my point. Alot of bikes out there are designed to work with 7inch DC forks not 7inch 1 1/8 single crown forks and their is going to be problems. Not everyone who rides a bike is an engineer and knows what the hell they are doing when they whip a 7inch single crown fork on their 2 year old bullit. And while it may not be maz's fault directly if this starts happening they should at the minimum warn people about it.

I still think 1 1/8 & 1.5 7 inch forks are silly and won't use them but such is the freedom of choice, give me a set of triple clamps anyday.

-Matt

To be honest, we don't answer the questions on if a fork will work with a frame most of the time... We refer them to the manufacturer of the frame. Those are the people who know what a particular frame is made for.

To say we should be resonsible is like saying Rock Shox should be resonsible for the guy I saw with a Boxxer on an Enduro.. Even though the frame came with a sticker that states DC forks or SC forks over 125mm should not be used on that frame... So, when he breaks that frame, should Rock Shox be responsible because the fork fits on the frame?

Brian

 

[Brian Peterson]

Anyone have pricing for a 66 RC or know who will be selling them?

MSRP on the 66RC is $775.... As for who will be selling them, your LBS or favorite online store will be able to get them.

Brian

 

[mobius]

6" Z1 on my heckler sounds quite sexy.

 

[Sverre]

6" Z1 on my heckler sounds quite sexy.

Absolutely

 

[Cave Dweller]

To be honest, we don't answer the questions on if a fork will work with a frame most of the time... We refer them to the manufacturer of the frame. Those are the people who know what a particular frame is made for.
Brian

Exactly!! Thats why i think the 1.5 standard is better for 7 inch forks. At least manipoo are asking the question by ensuring the frame can cope with it.........

 

[Brian Peterson]

We chose to make our pruducts compatible with as many frames as possible. But, it is ultimately up to the consumer what they will put on their bike. Regardless of what I recommend or what a frame manufacturers says, there are always going to be people that think they know better.

Brian

 

[Cave Dweller]

We chose to make our pruducts compatible with as many frames as possible. But, it is ultimately up to the consumer what they will put on their bike. Regardless of what I recommend or what a frame manufacturers says, there are always going to be people that think they know better.

Brian

Yeh, i know. Sorry if it sounded like i was having a dig at mazocchi, at the end it is up to the consumer.

 

[Brian Peterson]

Like I said, people should check with the frame manufacturer when it comes to what fork is compatible with a frame. Just because it fits doesn't mean it should go on there..

Brian

 

[Bulldog]

I'd love to see the two forks on a real scale before we go claiming that it's less than 1/4 pound heavier, first of all.

The next question to answer before flipping the statement back, is how durable are the ultra thin walls of the 66?

I think your statement there is a little premature considering how much is actually known about the real world durability/usability of the fork. The "little Breakout+" has had "little" (if anything) in the way of structural problems so clearly that heavy weight (which isn't all that heavy) has been put to excellent use.

The 66 has been weighed at least once in the real world. Check the "VP-Free with 66" thread. It weighs what they claim.

How durable are the thin walls of the 66? How about just as durable as the 888, sounds fair to me. Sure, several reports of failures. Doesn't worry me. Nothing is perfect. Most of my Marz's have had some little quirk, but the damping actually works, the service is nill, and I personally can make drastic tuning changes without any understanding of shimstacks or anything like that. It's the best option for me.

I don't hate the Breakout+, I'm glad it's there to push the limits and also to keep some fools from buying my Marzocchi's! j/k.

 

[Sverre]

I don't hate the Breakout+, I'm glad it's there to push the limits and also to keep some fools from buying my Marzocchi's! j/k.

I agree


S

 

[Erci]

I didn't read all the posts in this thread, so.. sorry if this has already been covered, but it seems like all the high end forks now have some sort of air chamber/assist/spring in them?
What's that about? Don't know about you, but I don't wanna have anything that needs air on my bike, besides tubes.
I'm sure someone's gonna say I'm bitchin/whinin (just like I bitched about M-arch, which I still think sucked, compared to bolt-on versions).
Does someone know more about the air dealie in their new fokrs?

 

[binary visions]

I didn't read all the posts in this thread, so.. sorry if this has already been covered, but it seems like all the high end forks now have some sort of air chamber/assist/spring in them?
What's that about? Don't know about you, but I don't wanna have anything that needs air on my bike, besides tubes.
I'm sure someone's gonna say I'm bitchin/whinin (just like I bitched about M-arch, which I still think sucked, compared to bolt-on versions).
Does someone know more about the air dealie in their new fokrs?

All Marzocchi forks have "air assist". All this means is that there's air in the stanctions above the oil bath. When the fork compresses, the air chamber gets smaller and provides more resistance, making the fork progressive - hence the term "air assist".

It has nothing to do with the traditional prejudice against air springs.

Incidentally, bolt on arches are significantly less structually efficient.. It's possible to make them stiff but the one piece lowers are much much stiffer for the same/lighter weight.

 

[Erci]

All Marzocchi forks have "air assist". All this means is that there's air in the stanctions above the oil bath. When the fork compresses, the air chamber gets smaller and provides more resistance, making the fork progressive - hence the term "air assist".

It has nothing to do with the traditional prejudice against air springs.

Incidentally, bolt on arches are significantly less structually efficient.. It's possible to make them stiff but the one piece lowers are much much stiffer for the same/lighter weight.

Let me get this straight.. are you saying that even the old forks (that never advertised air assist) technically had the same thing? Of course there was always air in the legs (the space not taken up by oil).
So, there's no need to pump the fork up or anything, like full-on air forks?

 

[Brian Peterson]

Basically, we have a few things going on....

Doppio Air: On the Marathon Race, SL, and All Mountain SL. All air w/ both positive and negative. Plus, new for 05 is a progression ajustment.

Air Assist: On the DJ, FR, and 66 lines... This is used in conjunction with coil springs. It allows you to easily adjust the progression of the fork.

Air one leg/ coil one leg: As found on the MX forks, All Mountain 1 forks, and Marathon XC. Uses air in one leg to lighten up the fork and allows for a wide range of setup options without changing springs.

Hope this helps...

Brian

 

[Erci]

Air Assist: On the DJ, FR, and 66 lines... This is used in conjunction with coil springs. It allows you to easily adjust the progression of the fork.

Hope this helps...

Brian

Definitely helps, but I still want more info please
How is this adjusted? Is pumping ever involved? Is there a chance that the fork will stop working because of an air leak (I've seen several early model x-fly's completely colapse on the trail.. definitely don't want that)

 

[binary visions]

Definitely helps, but I still want more info please
How is this adjusted? Is pumping ever involved? Is there a chance that the fork will stop working because of an air leak (I've seen several early model x-fly's completely colapse on the trail.. definitely don't want that)

Pumping up is not necessary - the amount of air assist is determined by the amount of oil you put in the fork. The more oil, the smaller the air chamber, the faster the fork ramps up.

If the top caps were to spontaneously crack and all the air were to escape, it would simply provide you with a linear coil fork at whatever rate spring you have in there.

The DJ models have a little valve that you can pump air into that will increase the pressure in the chamber, but the same deal - if they were to crack and the air were to go away, you'd just have a linear coil fork. Also, since the seals are keeping the oil in, not the air, they aren't as finicky as most air seals.

 

[MikeD]

You can pump air into the airspace above your oil. You don't have to, necessarily, and your coil spring is still there. This just acts as a fine-tuning tool.

 

[Brian Peterson]

Definitely helps, but I still want more info please
How is this adjusted? Is pumping ever involved? Is there a chance that the fork will stop working because of an air leak (I've seen several early model x-fly's completely colapse on the trail.. definitely don't want that)

Yes, you can pump them up..... It has the same effect as raising the oil level. So if air assist fork was to lose the air pressure, you could still ride home. Your fork would just be softer. The only time a complete pressure lost would be a problem would be on an all air fork.

Brian

 

[Jeremy R]

Basically, we have a few things going on....

Doppio Air: On the Marathon Race, SL, and All Mountain SL. All air w/ both positive and negative. Plus, new for 05 is a progression ajustment.
Brian

Hey Brian,
I got a quick question. On the All Mountain SL, I know the travel is adustable between 110 to 130 or 130 to 150 depending on which model you get.
And I know the adjustment is done with air somehow. If this something you can do on the fly, or does it require a shock pump to change the travel setting. Just curious.

 

[Brian Peterson]

Hey Brian,
I got a quick question. On the All Mountain SL, I know the travel is adustable between 110 to 130 or 130 to 150 depending on which model you get.
And I know the adjustment is done with air somehow. If this something you can do on the fly, or does it require a shock pump to change the travel setting. Just curious.

On the SL it is all done with air so you will need a shock pump. It is a preride adjustment. And, we are only looking at bringing in the 110 to 130 travel model.

Brian

 

[Renegade]

Brian, please check your p.m.'s Thanks.

 

[Jeremy R]

On the SL it is all done with air so you will need a shock pump. It is a preride adjustment. And, we are only looking at bringing in the 110 to 130 travel model.

Brian

That is fine by me, because that is the one that I want.
Set in 110 mode on my 5-spot should cover alot of what I ride,
and give me the ride height that I am looking for.