[TrumbullHucker]

woaahh this new interface is trrrrrrippy maaaaan jk

shes 80% there.. waiting on brake mount

ah yes... the placebo affect.....
how did you like the vivid? im going to tune my rc4 to the tunes mentioned in this thread, im sure it will feel great up in VT this weekend, but ill keep my eyes open to some used vivid coils

cheers

 

[TrumbullHucker]

I have the old style RC4 on mine and haven't notice any ill effects. I run my Boost Valve fully open with 140psi, instead of the recommended 150psi on the Turner site. Rides like a dream. Would be curious to see how the new style RC4 compares, if it supposedly even better.

The thing to consider is that you have to run the old RC4 pretty loose (low psi, biggest boost valve, less compression) to get it supple on the DHR.

this is where i get a tad confused. im assuming when you guys are talking about PSI, its in the air chamber of the rc4.. i changed my fat shaft rc4 to 140psi. but where i get lost is when you guys say "fully open" or "biggest boost valve"
where do you adjust this?

 

[yd35]

Full open, wide open, or loose are all ways of saying that you are using the least amount of adjustment for that particular valve. On the RC4 and most other shocks (maybe all other shocks?) that means your dial is full counter clockwise. So full open on the compression dials means the least amount of compression damping and full CCW. Full open on rebound means the least amount of rebound damping, which translates to a faster physical rebound when you compress the shock.

Boost valve is Fox's special name for their position sensitive damping technology, which is just the goodness inside the air chamber and the bottom out control knob at the bottom of it. The psi in the air chamber affects the whole range of the shock's travel, while the bottom out adjustment only works on the end of the travel. If you like the way your shock feels but it blows through its end stroke, you can leave everything else alone and adjust the bottom out knob. Turning the bottom out clockwise makes the shock more progressive (I believe this happens because you are decreasing the air volume in the can), which effectively firms up its end stroke. So when we say "biggest boost valve" or "boost valve fully open" what we really mean is that the bottom out adjust is all the way counter clockwise, which translates to the biggest possible air volume in the can, and the least amount of progressiveness. And as we learned from Udi and others, the DHR has progressiveness built into the latter stages of the its travel, so we don't need a shock that accentuates that.

 

[TrumbullHucker]

thankyou and repped

 

[6thElement]

I might need to check my RC4, I might have the bottom out wound in rather than all the way out.

 

[fro biker]

Anyone have a cool solution to chain slap against the chainstay/seatstay arch? Velcro is working-ish, just not much surface area for the adhesive to hold.

 

[kidwoo]

I always wondered about sticking something like this on there.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-plastic-sheets/=tc9m42

I've either gotten so used to it I don't notice or running a clutch derailleur chilled out the noise. Either way, I seem to have quit caring.

 

[W4S]

Mastic tape does a great job, get the thickest one available #2229.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#mastic-tape/=tcadek

 

[canadmos]

Velcro has been working well on mine. Though the Saint derailleur still chatters like hell back there.

 

[SkullCrack]

Anyone have a cool solution to chain slap against the chainstay/seatstay arch? Velcro is working-ish, just not much surface area for the adhesive to hold.

As other have mentioned, the 3M mastic works well.

 

[TrumbullHucker]

i have always been anal with noise.. with my cars too

the frame came with alot of velcro near the chain slap area... maybe velcro will be more quiet than electrical tape?

 

[canadmos]

Electrical tape? Does that even last more than a few rides? Get something real on there

 

[StiHacka]

I just wrap the stays with old tubes.

 

[TrumbullHucker]

Electrical tape? Does that even last more than a few rides? Get something real on there

lmao seriously it disappears in one day at a park, i had tubes neatly wrapped on my commy and seemed to be fine

 

[ocelot]

I have the Saint derailleur with clutch and the chain slap is still audible. I have every contact surface taped with 3m 2228 Mastic tape. Since I ride teh EAST COAST GNAR™, it kind of gets annoying. I think I shall double up on the rubber. Duh huh huh huh!

 

[fro biker]

Skull: Perfect!

 

[kidwoo]

Fro, have you really never seen that stuff? That's what's actually on mine. It still wears away (mine is pretty much gone at this point) but it's pretty rad. If you're up my way I'll give you some.

 

[SylentK]

Do yourself a favor and buy another fender and mount it on the rear to protect the shock and linkage.

 

[TrumbullHucker]

Do yourself a favor and buy another fender and mount it on the rear to protect the shock and linkage.

i do have two... i have it installed now

 

[Mo(n)arch]

I love threads talking about anal and rubber

I am using frame wrap for the chainstays. You don't have to glue it on the frame, which is an advantage imo. Not sure whether it's quieter or not.
What about velcro. Too fast wearing?

 

[fro biker]

Fro, have you really never seen that stuff? That's what's actually on mine. It still wears away (mine is pretty much gone at this point) but it's pretty rad. If you're up my way I'll give you some.

I had forgotten what it was called (I have used a similar off-brand style) - and I had velcro on the brain, so it didn't come to mind. And I appreciate the offer! I think I'll just buy some, gotta prep the race machine for this coming weekend.

 

[jackalope]

While I admit mastic tape works quite well, it can be a real bitch to remove - especially if you're in an area which gets hot enough to semi-melt the stuff onto the frame. It will also eventually wear through like Woo said, but it usually lasts a good while. I just bought some 40 mil clear tape from Lamex which I'm using for cable rub protection, but I suspect it would work pretty well for chainslap protection as well (although it would turn black/grimey quickly I would imagine).

The other idea would be to get hammered and try to linex the rear triangle

 

[Mo(n)arch]

therefore frame wrap. It just sticks to itself.

 

[TrumbullHucker]

im going to try out wrapping the chain slap areas with velcro for this weekend.. we will see how it goes. i can imagine protection will be fine, and maybe more quiet than wraps or tapes

 

[Udi]

While I admit mastic tape works quite well, it can be a real bitch to remove

Agreed, though you misspelt "absolute freakin' nightmare". I used that stuff for a while but refuse to use it again after the mess it was to get off. Not very impressive for a 3M product.

I found a cool alternative in the form of thin double-sided foam tape topped with black electrical tape for that stealth look. I should check which brands I used before I go giving bad suggestions, but the foam backing absorbs the hits (so the electrical tape lasts a long time) and it's lighter and easier to remove than mastic.

 

[6thElement]

I've read the tip before that a layer of clear tape under the mastic solves the removal issue.

 

[kidwoo]

before I go giving bad suggestions,

You're really missing out on a lot of fun.


I think you're turning Canadian.

 

[TrumbullHucker]

really stoked to try her out at mt snow this weekend! thanks for all the help and tips and such guys
give 'er

 

[TrumbullHucker]

my gawd this is the best feeling bike i have ever felt.. so fast

properly dirty

 

[Nick]

looks good TH!

fwiw: I installed a CCDB coil on loan from a buddy on my dhr and after reading, tweaking and re-tweaking I chased a pretty fast guy down Keystone all day. Noticeably awesomer in every way, other than needing a wrench to adjust mid-ride. I had just rebuilt my fork last night and the bike never rode faster and felt better than it did today. Rear took fast successive hits much better, sucked up the sh!tty brake bumps, still jumped well.

I wouldn't have thought I"d like it as suggested tune had it feeling really over dampENed just playing around. But, when you got moving it couldn't have been much better. I think I'm sold.

 

[TrumbullHucker]

looks good TH!

fwiw: I installed a CCDB coil on loan from a buddy on my dhr and after reading, tweaking and re-tweaking I chased a pretty fast guy down Keystone all day. Noticeably awesomer in every way, other than needing a wrench to adjust mid-ride. I had just rebuilt my fork last night and the bike never rode faster and felt better than it did today. Rear took fast successive hits much better, sucked up the sh!tty brake bumps, still jumped well.

I wouldn't have thought I"d like it as suggested tune had it feeling really over dampENed just playing around. But, when you got moving it couldn't have been much better. I think I'm sold.

yeah for sure ill keep my eye out for a ccdb coil but im in no rush... i counterclocked all the adjustments out and put 140psi with the appropriate rebound on my rc4 and it was rippin.. there arent many big drops at mount snow but daaamn the dh stuff was awesome.


fyi... mount snow is a hell of alot better then i thought!

 

[Nick]

I just looked up the cost of the CCDB.


I'm also in no rush.

 

[kidwoo]

There's a reason I have two vivids for mine y'all.

And it ain't just because I think gold looks stupid.

 

[TrumbullHucker]

There's a reason I have two vivids for mine y'all.

And it ain't just because I think gold looks stupid.

totally forgot about that, vivid might be my best bet ($ wise and i can probably get a decent chunk of change for this next to new RC4 i have. would like to get full RS suspension too

now to open up another can of words.. why does ( and what year ) the vivid perform better than the fat shaft RC4 for the DW link DHR? or was it already mentioned

 

[Nick]

two vivids = moar shimz

 

[fro biker]

FWIW, I have a 9.5x3.0 Vivid with a 450# ti spring I'd let go for a good price.

 

[TrumbullHucker]

FWIW, I have a 9.5x3.0 Vivid with a 450# ti spring I'd let go for a good price.

yeah im finding some on pinkbike for 300, im pretty sure my next-to-mint rc4 kashima will get to that price... 450 might be tad to hard for me, im gunu check what i have when i get home; ill p.m ya

 

[yd35]

now to open up another can of words.. why does ( and what year ) the vivid perform better than the fat shaft RC4 for the DW link DHR? or was it already mentioned

The Vivid offers multiple compression tunes (3 I think) and possibly several rebound tunes (although I've only seen the M tune) so there's one reason it works well with the DHR and most other bikes, granted you get the right tune. For the DHR get the L or low tune which offers the least amount of damping.

 

[eater]

I take a ano green on the labor day sale with rc2 shock but have a ccdb coil ready.. Looks like spot on for the light progressiv DW link... Ride a TB650b since 3mt and can't be happyer!! But with 178cm i take the dhr in large reach 41cm...

 

[shelteringsky]

I take a ano green on the labor day sale with rc2 shock but have a ccdb coil ready.. Looks like spot on for the light progressiv DW link... Ride a TB650b since 3mt and can't be happyer!! But with 178cm i take the dhr in large reach 41cm...

Are you getting it shipped to Switzerland or are you in the US? I'm in Australia and saw the Labor Day sale but shipping was going to be too expensive, alas.